wrxhoon

If its a rattling sound its not the thrust bearing, they make a different sound, if you have an old bearing without grease in it spin it fast and you will know what a bearing sounds like. If it just rattles its the clutch itself. Is it a button clutch ? Who installed it? If its a bearing sound it could be the main shaft bearing in the gearbox and it goes away when you press the clutch in because its not turning. You should hear that while you are driving as it then turns again .

No. Leaking from cyl one to cyl 2 only wont effect the rest of the cylinders but then again the gasket could be blown altogether.

Its not a good idea to rely on the compression figure, it can vary depending on the gauge, battery, starter( crank speed) and the way its done ( cold, hot, WOT). To your surprise it could even be highet on a healthy old angine because of carbon built up. The factory pressure is 12.2 kg/cm2 for a turbo RB25. A leakdown test will be more accurate indication of the condition of the engine .

Before removing anything put the crank pulley to TDC . After you remove the rocker covers make sure that the cam gears are linning up with their marks while the crank pulley is still on TDC. If you are going to re-use the timming belt you dont need to take the bottom cover off. Put 2 marks on the belt, one on each camgear mark . Take the camgears off and somehow hold the belt tight on the crank gear to make sure it doesn't jump any teeth . When you re-install the cams and the gears, the marks will make it easier to put the belt in. Check to make sure all the timming marks are linning up still. The brackets should be undone from the outside towards the centre. So start from the front bracket next the rear then back to number 2 and so on, Make sure you only undo the 6mm bolts a little at the time so you dont snap a camshaft . Instalation is in reverse order, again in several steps and tighten to 12 nm . Make sure all the cambrackets go back where they came from and in the same direction too. Use new can seals and depending on condition i would use new rocker cover gaskets too . Take care when installing the CAS to make sure the half pins line up. I would mark the CAS before removing and put it back in the same spot then check timming with a light . If you havent replaced the timming belt its a good idea to do that and while you are at it tensioner, iddler and water pump.

That one is to close to call for me but if i had to say i would go with the old crank. You will only be sure when you pull it out. Someone else maybe able to tell you .

Thats a white 95 model V-spec. This car was deregisterd about 2 years ago. I would stay clear of this car if i was you . To get it re-registered you will have to go the full EPA , good luck passing emissions with this thing. They have been trying to pass it on and off for 2 years, it has heaps of blow by. To pass it you will need to rebuilt the engine, GTR's barely pass when they are new .

If you give me your engine number i maybe able to tell you . Mo mods needed to fit the N1 oil pump at all, but 32 cranks have a narrow coller and they spin on the pump. Where are you going to get a new crank from? Nissan have been out of stock for months now.

If the gasket is old i would replace it, they are not very expensive .

Depends on the condition of the gasket. Why do you want to remove the rocker covers ?

If you have a twin plate, its the clutch .

Crank SOLD, rods are still for sale, will take offers .

Say that again.

Who told you they have a whole?

They will belive anything you tell them. If however you get cought you are commiting a criminal offence, you will have to pay penanlty and have a criminal record. Its easier to get cought than you think. I know you have a receipt but how did you pay? Funds transfer? Bank cheque? Even if you paid cash ( part cash) they can see you took the money out of your account at the time you bought the car. Do you think they are totally stupid ?

Yes late model 32's had the later crank.

Last time i priced them about $1550 from memory

I kept mine

Drivers side is $1180 and passengers side $1210, all plus gst, from Nissan australia but ex japan, so about 5-10 days delivery. R33 xenons are actualy the cheapest Nissan xenons, try buying R34....

Thicker cable = less resistance . Thats the reason they use a thick cable .

Very easy to use and holds boost well.

Its a very old gasket, i would replace it but you can use a stock item.

Parts for a basic rebuild can quite cheap but you can also spend 10's of thousands, it depends on what you want . As a guide pistons and rings about $1300, bearings $150, oil pump $500, a full set of gaskets from Nissan $300, water pump $140, timming belt, tensioner+ iddler $200 . Depends on who you know as to how much you will pay for bore+hone + clean the block but say $250, same with the crank, say $400 ( you will need to put a coller on that) , then you have to get the cil head serviced say $450+ parts if needed ( stem seals come in the gasket set), then oil, oil filter, drive belts etc.. Thats the very minimum, i'm sure you will find something else when you strip it, like maybe engine mounts, driveshaft boots etc...

Why would you want to do that ?