wrxhoon

Timming belt should be changed at 100,000 k's or 5 years, whichever comes first. If i bought a car 5 years or older i would change the belt ASAP just in case .

You make it sound very easy, if only it was as easy as that. To rebuilt an engine, its engine out job, no ifs no buts, anything other, like rip the head off sump off( ever tried that on a GTR?). Give it a light hone and new rings and bearings and she will be out very soon again . To answer your question GTRGoddy, yes you can do it yourself as long as you have some exreriance or have someone guide you. You need to pull the donk out, strip it and carefuly check and measure everything, replace anything that is not within specs/worn. Even the most basic rebuild should include, rebore the block, new pistons and rings, crank checked out and if need be regrind it, new bearings and a new oil pump. Have someone service the cil head and new gaskets, timming belt, tensioner and iddler .

I have a pair of JUN pods, white, $100 delivered.

It works out about the same Richard, in Vitoria stamp duty is 4%.( Lucky them )

Are you saying that you dont always change tyres? I thought new tyres are a must, was i wrong ? I got now you say add tyres AND if required....... i missed the ( and ), my mistake .

The seller paid that when he bought it ( he was a buyer then, got it now ). In other words everyone pays that when the buy ( not when they sell) . Licenced dealers dont pay stamp duty, just the tranfer fee.

Depends on how happy the dyno is as to how much power you will make . You can buy new N1 turbos from justjap and from Nissan ( if you want to pay Nissan price.

All N1 or Nismo turbos are direct fit, Gtst's turbos are bigger and wont fit the GTR's manifolds .

By what you say it sounds like you have oil sitting in the pipes and as soon as she burns it, she is fine. Where does the oil come from ? It could very well br the turbo seals leaking ever so little, oil drops in the dump and sits there until you start it up and burn it. The worry here is that its there ( smoke ) for 3 minutes ! I'm sure it wouldn't be stem seals ( not when you have just replaced them ). It shouldnt be the engine either, as its all new and the rings must have bedded in because you didnt have the smoke before. You can easily eliminate the engine by doing a leakdown test, any problems there will show up.

If its blue smoke it doesn't sound good Adam. I dont think the oil has anything to do with it. Are you sure it goes away after warm up ? Any blue smoke under hard ecceleration? Try going down a log hill in a suitable gear so it maintains speed at high rpm ( above 5000 if possible), whe you get to the bottom of the hill give it full throtle and watch at the rear for blue smoke. Watch your oil consumption closely to see if sge uses more than before .

Stock pump is fine however a 15yo pump may not be, so a nismo unit is ideal for your aplication. Stock injectors wont do the job you will need 550's, of course it will depend on how hard you want to push the turbos . 700's are overkill for the turbos you have but its your call as sards are very cheap .

There is no "safe" level on old ceramic turbos, they can go anytime at any boost .

The seller doesn't pay stamp duty, only the buyer does. In NSW its 3% on the first $46 k and 5% on anything above that .

Did you check the fuses?

I have a drivers side xenon .

Check the boots to make sure they are not cut. They will get worse and make the clicking sound even when you are going in straight line. The CV's are very cheap but labour is not. What you usualy do is remove the whole driveshaft and trade it in for one that has new CV's on it and new boots, or if they dont have one in stock they replace the CV's in yours . Dont even think of going to Nissan, a new boot ( just 1, you have 2 on each shaft) is about $70-80. You can get both shafts done for under $200, depends on who you know . I must warn you they are not easy to change on the GTR but if you are handy with normal hand tools you can do them .

You will have to twist the box so you can clear the tunnel then twist it back to normal. I hope you are doing it on a hoist, its a bastard of a job on the floor..

Faulty gauge you would hope.

The reason for not wanting to run the master cil dry is because its much easier if you dont, if you run the master dry it means you have to first bleed the master, its messy and unnecessary, if you just want to bleed the lines or change the fluid. If you just want to remove a caliper the best, easiest way is to get a self locking multigrip ( plastic is best but steel will do ) and lock it on the flexihose, that way you dont loose any fluid and its very easy to bleed . If you have braided lines this is not possible so its wise to just block the hole on the pipe with something while you are servicing the caliper. I hope that helps you in some way.

Try the combo switch ( lights, turn, signal, wiper), you may find there is a short in there .

It could be your CV's, try low speed full lock on either side .

I hope you know its a criminal offence to cheat the OSR (tax) and you could end up in jail trying to save a few $ .

R33's and R34's have a 65 lt tank, i believe 32's have the bigger tank.

Fuel is the least expensive part of owning a GTR ( most cars for that matter ) . Purchase price ( capital outlay) depreciation insurance maitnance, etc.. will be a lot more than fuel.

Still for sale, offers will be considered .