wrxhoon

Thats true, when you convert them to hals you cant see when it rains at all, they are pathetic.

Richard, in your case its not as clear cut as someone turning in front of you . In your case the other driver could have said you changed lanes and if no one has any independant witnesses it could be hard to prove . I probably would have done the same in your case . If this case if it happened as he describes it, its very hard for the van driver to say otherwise. In this case the police should have come to the accident because a car had to be towed and they would have given the van driver a ticket ( should have ) . Armed with all that i would go after him all the way to get my money, i dont care if he has no assets, as long as he has a job. If i couldnt get my money of him at least i would bankrupt him so he cant do that to someone else.

The van turned right in front of him, by what he says its clear cut the van was at fault, and the polise should have given him a neg driving ticket . Insurance or no insurance he is responsible to pay for your damages. If i was you i would buy another car( it will end up cheaper ) and sell the wreck. Get a valuation for your car from a car valuer, deduct the money that you get from the sale of the wreck then add any expences like tow, valuation fee etc.. Send the guy a letter of demand for the amount you are out of pocket and he what he does . If you dont hear from him the next step is a summons, you can do that by going to your local court and get the sheriff to serve it. It will cost you a few dollars but that will be added to the total amount . Usualy when the sheriff goes to their place to serve the summons they pay. If they dont you go on and get a court order( unless he goes to court to defend it ), when you get the court order if they dont pay you can do several things. The main one is to get the sheriff to reposses some of their property( enough to recover the dept. The only problem is if he moves around a lot and he is hard to locate you have to spend more money to find him ( private investigator) but again you ad that to the total amount . If the person has a job you will get your money one way or another but it may take a long time in this case interest is added to the amount owing . I have had to do that on a few accassions, minor accidents that i didnt want to claim on my insurance. One time i had the young guys dad call me and he said that they will never pay because they thought the claim was to much. The original claim was about $900 , they had to pay $1500 but it took 18-24 months to get it .

Just get your girlfriend to do it, its very easy if you have small hands .

They dont comply with ADR, not because they are to bright( they are only 35 watt), its because under current ADR they must be auto ajust and have washers on them. The easiest way to make them comply is to convert to hals, thats the reason they all do that .

You wont be able to fit them, unless you got the whole belt assembly .

I dont know if this is of any help to you but this is how i did mine, its a seriesII GTR. Made small brackets for the front plate so it sits higher that original and out a bit, this way its not in the way of the cooler . The rear i used long bolts (60 mm) and tube spacers, if you dont use covers you only need small spacers ( 10 mm ), in my case about 25 mm spacers used to accomodate the cover .

Do you know for sure that you have stock turbos ? 0.5 bar at 4-5,000 rpm in a healthy engine ?? Stock turbos should be 1 bar before 4,000 especialy in higher gears . As for the high boost, obviously the w/gates dont open. Check with compressed air to see how much pressure they need to crack, you may have aftermarket actuators. I wouldnt be letting it boost to 1.4 bar on a stock ecu, wont last long .

The h/lights will fit, the top inner bracket is different ( its higher than the sI+ sII) so you just do away with the spacer that secures it to the grill. Good luck finding a set though ..

No need to remove the engine to replace the turbos, take it to someone that has done it before. It should take a max of 8 hours to R+R low mounts on a GTR.

I have buddy club coilovers for sale in Sydney.

Private imports didnt require seatbelt or dimmer, actualy not even child restrains , fuel restrictor etc... You will find thet the plate is different colour as well, yellow if i remember correct.

They are torqs bolts ( number 50 from memmory), any auto shop will sell them, you have to undo then in order to remove the airbag then you will see thenut you have to undo , you may need a gear puller to remove the wheel .

If he is going to have standard bore/pistons 87 mm h/gasket.

You need a new water pump and while you are at it a new harmonic balancer too.

I have a crank and rods

Thats what usauly happens to water pumps, they leak first from the telltale .

Still for sale due to time waster..

I think if you were to use the whole package, including turbos ( the pipes are designed for their turbos) then its a different story . You probably dont have any issues with fitting anything then, maybe the air cond discharge pipe would be ok then too . I know on HKS turbos they are a pain in the ass to make them fit . Lwells, i didnt have any problems with any nuts not fitting at all, sure some are a very tight fit, but never the less they did fit, maybe you got a set made on Friday afternoon . Yes the pipes have to be changed around and by a long way for the 02 sensor to fit , i put the sensor on first and then had to bend the pipes around it, this was all done with the donk on the floor so i didnt find out about air cond pipe until the donk went back in the car. I think you will find that there wouldnt be any difference in performance between the HKS and these , using the baby GTSS's . As for price, i dont know how much ( if any ) difference there is by the time you get the front pipes as well. I picked up my front HKS pipes in japan ( up garage) for 8000 yen, used by looked like new . The main thing is you fitted them in now so its all good. Personaly i wouldnt fit them in car even if they worked out to be much cheaper, to many hassles for my liking

Sorry to hear, but by what you said i wouldnt think it will be a blown h/gasket but could very well be stripped timming belt, especialy if you dont have lots of blowby . Easy to caheck on the timing belt , just take off the top cover and put the harmonic balancer on TDC then check to see if the camgears line up with their marks.

I fitted them to a 34, i had no problems doing any nuts on and i used the locknuts supplied as well . The o2 issue is the same on the 34 mate , i had to bend the pipes , reshape them so they are out of the way . I also had to get a bung welded on trhe rear dump for the exhaust temp ( only 34's have it factory fitted) . I agree that the pipes are well made but i would never fit them to my car, i would go for HKS, they probably just as good and direct fit without any issues, even the turbo support bracket fits ! Of course you will hear the w/gate more than stock, the s/s tube is very thin , the cast factory dumps are much thicker . I actualy prefer to use Nismo dumps but they are very pricey! I still have stock s/s dumps on my car and they are staying there as i only use baby GTSS turbos i can see the point in changing them but if i had cast 32 dumps i would replace them with HKS.

Thats exacly what i found out when i fitted them in a 34 GTR( not mine) , they are a pain in ass.\ If they ever have to replace the rear 02 sensor they will find it very difficult on the car ( doable though). Another problem i found because they all the same ( for all model GTR's ) you ahve to weld a bung for the exhaust temp gauge ( only 34's have that ) .

Its possible to to in the car ( GTR) but its turbos out job, of course its easier off the car . I wouldnt have them in my GTR though, i would prefer to fit HKS .

Pete GTSS's are much smaller than 2530's , they are baby turbos and will run out of puff at top . I run 16psi in my 34 ( totaly stock, unopened engine ) and it drops to 15 psi above 7000 but they spool up almat like my stockers. Actualy the only reason i replaced them was the ceramic wheels, i dont want them to let go and destroy my donk . Unless you are thinking of the bigger housing GTSS's like the ones used in SR20's, not sure on them and all but one set of the twins ( RB26 sets) i have seen are the small comp housings .

165 is about right but it depends on the gauge the battery( how quick its spinning the engine)and how it was done, like WOT and engine in normal operating temp. If all cil have the same comp thats a good indication of a healthy engine . When the engine gets older if the top end ( valves ) is in good nick and totaly seals then compression would be higher that when it was new, because of carbon built up .