wrxhoon

I agree Tommy but he has the money , so why not invest in a GT block .....

If you are serious about building a strong engine then buy a decent block too . Nismo GT is a good start .

There you go .

If you buy and own the car there for 12 months( must be registered in your name ), you can bring any car you want and you dont need to go through raws . Anyone can buy and bring a car under sevs, so you can buy a 34 GTR anytime and ship it here . Even if you own the car for 12 months you still have to pay taxes, import duty @10% and GST@10% but you do get some depreciation depending on how long you own the car there .

Nissan Dealer mate , I deal with Hornsby , they are good they know all import parts , they were 1 of only 2 dealers that sold the 32 GTRS . But you should be able to reuse it mate, i have done in the past . If o'brein dont do it p.m. and if you prepared to come to Sydney i'll send you to my windscreen guy , he will be cheaper than o's as well.

With careful removal of the mould you will be able to reuse it again . Leave the car in the sun to soften it up before removal .

Your exhaust clearance is to big , it should be between .35 and .41mm ( cold ) , intake is right on the max at .48 mm ( cold ) .

Who said anything about tuning Tom?

Time for a new clutch , try full throtle uphill in high gear say 4th when under load she should slip then .

Just buy a VL rb30 bottom end , give it a light hone, some used pistons and rings and bolt a RB26 cil head on to it all up $2000 . Get a big high mount turbo, rev it to 10,000 rpm and you will have a very quick R33 gst , should last for a couple hundred k's no problem.

How?

Still for sale .

V35 skylines have a 6 speed box .

You been watching to many rexes break their boxes . GTR boxes are much stronger than that unless you have huge power in the order of 600+p.s. you wont have a problem with the box but you need a decent clutch when you start pumping some decent power . As for the RPM you drop the clutch ( yes drop) it will depend on the tyres you hve and the turbos . No point droping the clutch at 8000 if you are just going to spin all 4 and go nowhere . Stock turbos i would try about 5-5500 and take it from there. If she bogs down try a few more RPM until you get the balance right between wheelspin and the car bogging down .You need a certain amount of wheelspin ( all 4 ) so you wont bog down .

Its much cheaper to change turbos when you buy the car , rather than spit an exhaust wheel and change the turbos then + the engine . As i said before i dont go much on rwhp or awhp because dynos read differently so i dont quote power . When you do the 1/4 mile you cant cheat on power there . I wouldnt compare a pushrod V8 with an RB26, totaly different donks but its your choice, if you like to compare them do so . I can tell you one thing you have to do a lot of mods to the V8 commie to even go near a lightly modded GTR and i speak from experiance here, even when you have the power in the commie you will have to use drag ryres to have any chance to even keep up with the GTR. If you arte seriously looking for a stock 33 R give a p.m. i know someone that has a v-spec for sale at a keen price .

Over the years i had a few gtrs, the closest that comes to mind was a 95 model v-spc, only mods full exhaust ( stock dumps), power f/c and ebc running 14 psi on stock turbos. She did a couple 12.3 down the wsid 1/4 . Another 33 ( none v-spec ) with the above mods + N1 turbos, stock dumps even stock airbox, she ran 11.7 @ wsid . Not difficult to run high 11's in a fairly stock gtr, much easier than a bommie and you can put the power ot the ground . I recomend you invest in a pair of turbos though, thats the weak link in the GTR's because they are ceramic wheels and not because of the size . Rb 26's are very strong and durable engines and in stock form will handle up to 450 p.s. at the flywheel, keep in mind they are only 2568cc not 5700 like the bommie .

How about this ? Not a HKS though its a nismo N1 actuator .

You dont need 400hp to run 11's in a gtr . You need turbos ( stockers are ceramic, very easy to drop an exhaust wheel and take the engine with them), full exhaust, power f/c and ebc. YOu dont need another cooller for mild mods .

You have P.M.

Yes they are direct bolt on job .

Put the rings in bore and measure the gap while in the bore, if they are within spec then put them in the pistons and use a ring compressor to install the piston in the bore . The ring gap will not change whe you put them in the piston groove . Stock pistons you have to heat to install the pin but most aftermarket pins you dont. As lond as you have some clearance ( very little)on the little end it should be ok.

No need to remove the radiator , 5 allen key bolts ( if i remember correct ) and 3 little hex ( 8mm heads) to remove the coolant pipe , its that easy .

Thre you go a couple of pics of the shaft you have to ajust . I send you email as well.

That one ( full of rust at no extra cost ) was sold for 2.856 mil jpy, so say 3 million fob .Bring that here and comply it ( if it doesnt get rejected )and see how much it ends up costing you . Say you get 82 jpy to $ ( 84 in todays trading )= $36,600 +$3660 import duty+$2000 transport+$4226 gst +say $3500 compliance+$1000 tyres +say $1000 brake pads =51,986 . What about stock rims ? brokers fee? take off aftermarket parts, .( catback and pods ) what if you need rotors? Windscreen? Who knows what else in a car like this and you still have to register it ! As you can see you cant even get that for $45 k here and with a car like this its a huge risk it may get rejected . If you can get a car like this here and comply it for $45 k i'll take one as well (spare car ) as long as its not rusted out, i dont care about the k's