wrxhoon

If you think that cars are in the garage all the time in Japan i have a few low km examples here for you ! 2000 model with 162,000 kms , i dont call this low ! Lot #1654287 at 02/16/2006 Nissan Skyline, 2000 Frame: ER34 Color: blue Run (ths km): 162 Equipment: AC SR AW PS PW Mark: 3 Grade: coupe GT-V Displacement: 2500 Syaken: 03.2007 Transmission: FA 93 model with267000 km , is this low ? Lot #1654364 at 02/15/2006 Nissan Skyline, 1993 Frame: HCR32 Color: gun metal Run (ths km): 267 Equipment: AC AW PS PW Mark: 3 Grade: coupe GTS-T type M Displacement: 2000 Syaken: Transmission: F5 2001 with 107000 , i wonder how many k's this would have if it came to australia ? Lot #1654432 at 02/11/2006 Nissan Skyline, 2001 Frame: V35 Color: silver Run (ths km): 107 Equipment: AC AW PS PW Mark: R Grade: 4D 250GT Skorekushon Displacement: 2500 Syaken: Transmission: FA Another one with 124,000 ks Lot #1632756 at 02/09/2006 Nissan Skyline, 2000 Frame: ER34 Color: black Run (ths km): 124 Equipment: AC PS PW Mark: R Grade: 4D GT TB Displacement: 2500 Syaken: 05.2007 Transmission: F5 Have a look at this one 2000 model with 300,000 km , not many Auatralian cars this age with 300k on the clock Lot #1632864 at 02/04/2006 Nissan Skyline, 2000 Frame: ER34 Color: silver Run (ths km): 300 Equipment: AC AW TV PS PW Mark: R Grade: 4D GT-X TB Displacement: 2500 Syaken: 02.2007 Transmission: F5 This car was sold to someone in Australia , how many k's do you think it will have when it arives here ? My guess about 40 k k's .. And gtrs dont do many k's , how many 32's have you seen with 30k k's ? 1999 Nissan Skyline GTR .. BARGAIN PRICE 2.6L twin turbo 4WD 6 speed manual white 171,183 km's No major accident history One owner vehicle Power steering Power windows Air conditioner ABS brakes Dual air-bags Factory Xenon headlights Aftermarket turbo timer Timing belt replaced in 2003 at 97,198 kms Additional details can be requested If you believe the k's on the clock you must believe that cops fly too ..

I have driven in Japan up to 150kmh only because tha car wouldnt go any quicker ( mazda 2 ) they have good roads with lots of traffic at times and huge tolls . Some cars do a lot of k's there too but generaly lower than we do but the cars that come here are usualy higher k cars and yes the oddos are mostly turned back both there and here ( mostly on the way from japan to here ). The new digital oddos can be done too and no they dont store the k's in the main ecu they have their own chip, so you change the cluster with a new one it will show zero k's .

Of course it is, totaly gutless...................

I hope you didnt increase the bore size by half a mm, if you did the pistons would swim in there, actualy even a few hundrenths of a mm is to much ! I honesly dont know how you washed the block in the car.

I have one rear caliper, if interested i'll check to see if its left or right .

Adam, Looks like i will be bringing my stocker too, i may take the front driveshaft off and drive there without it .

If you wanted a cheap rebuild you should take the donk out , strip it and carefully check everything then only replace what ever is warn/damaged . You can't just hone it out and hope for the best, the pistons you used ( the second hand ones ) you should have measured them to make ure the piston to bore clearance is not to big . Just because they came out of an rb25 don't think they are the same, don't forget they are graded so they do vary a bit, then you hone it as well . You can't realy clean the bore after honing on the car you have to scrub it with soapy water to make sure you don't leave any honing stuff there that will wear the bore very quick . You can't measure the bearing clearances on the car the crank has to come out put on the lathe to check the runout to make sure its within specs . If as you say the bearings were like new you would have been better of to leave them rather than change them and not check how much clearance you have there .You left the old pistons there and it was pinging so why not the old bearings? You should have at least pulled the oil pump appart to check for scoremarls and wear . Feel free to pm if you want but this time do it the right way, believe me you can't cut corners and don't forget you will need a new gasket set and a new h/gasket dont use the old one again . Some people do everything right and they still have problems, imagine when you try to cut corners ! Good luck with it ..

Blitz is on the money here, more than likely you popped a cooler hose just have a look under the bonnet .

Mate you don't understand its got nothing to do with having a workshop. Take the engine out of the car, take the crank out and have it checked by someone that knows and has the tools to do it .You say you checked the bearing clearances , how can you do it on the car ? By using new bearings again its not going to make any difference if they are the same size as before . You must have done something wrong otherwise she would be fine. If i was you i would check the piston to bore clearance too , it has nothing to do with oil pressure but it may have something to do with the clicking sound ( piston slap if the clearance is to big ) . You should also service the cil head while you are at it, saves you having to pull it off in the very near future .

That dreaded clicking sound again..............time for a rebuild but this time do it right , take the donk out and check everything so you dont have to do it again ...

dagr81, You don't understand how it works mate , if you read the contract you will see its consignment it doesn't matter if they get commision or not . You give them your car and they sell it, i know you don't care what they make as long as you get your money . What i'm trying to say is sometimes you wont get your money or the car, if they happen to go broke in the meantime. Anyway this time it worked for you so good for you, i'm just trying to warn others. As long as they know and are prepared to take the risk its fine but i'm sure most people don't realise that they are unsecured creditors.

Clearances maybe to big, a new pump is not going to help there . Was the oil pressure good before the rebuild? If yes its not the pump its the way it was rebuild. Did you open the oli pump to inspect ?

Are you sure its the oil pump ?

It will fit, if i remember right the hangers may need to be modified .

No tint allowed only a tinted band on the top.

Did you lower compression ? What kind of head work did you do? Is the engine still very new and very tight ? Piston to bore clearances? Do a comp and leakdown test then you will see whats going on . The dynos can make a lot of difference even if you used the same dyno .

I just noticed in the pics you posted the block is in the car . Did you hone it in the car ? How did you get the crank off To change the main bearings? Its easy enough to change the conrod big ends in the car ( i wouldnt , much easier to remove the donk out ), but how did you change the mains ?Did you drop the box down and then pull the crank off ?

Sydney

Catback exhaust to suit r34 gtr , may suit gtt . 3 1/4 " polished s/s manrel bent jap made , SR jasma . can only be desribed as new . Looking for $690 SOLD

Expensive rings , tensioner and idler but very cheap pistons @$25 each or were they used, what about the other 2? I assume its still a six cil . What about a gasket set ? Did you use the old gaskets ? At least i hope you used a new h/gasket or you will be pulling the cil head off very soon . "it says on the engine manual and on the instruction thingo for the rings to lube the pistons up on installation" Are you sure it says to use assembly lube ? If it does i would go and get another book . You should lube them but with engine oil not assembly lube thats for bearings so when you first start the engine they dont run dry ( until oil pressure builts up ) .

If the red stuff in the bore is assebly lube the rings are never going to bed in unless you jump in to her from the start and use a very thin oil . I hope you used that stuff in the bearings thats what it is for and just engine oil on the bore and rings .

The sticker says replace belt at 100,000 k's . If you read the owners manual it says every 100,000 or 5 years wichever comes first .

I assume you have a 32 gtr. If you are going to fit them on the car i dont know how hard it is but it wont be easy . I have fitted turbos many times on a gtr with engine in the car but never thses bastard dumps ( they are a bastard let me tell you ) . I fitted them on a 34 gtr but with engine off the car and with gtss turbos all i did was machine off the tongue of the dumps flat then bolted them on the turbos . When i tried to assemble the engine the o2 censor ( rear dump) was in the way of the coolant and vacium tubes so i had to mod the tubes to fit them on !! Depending on where your rear dump o2 bung is you may have to do the same too . If you have a good look at your dumps you will see there is no place to bolt the turbo support brackets and unless you go to a lot of trouble to make some different bracket you cant bolt them on . The best solution ? Sell them and use HKS dumps , they are a direct bolt on job and eveything fits on . The other thing you will find is :The rear dump ( that bastard again ) will be touching your air cond discharge hose, if you leave it on it will melt it in about 5 minutes so make sure you remove it and replace it with a copper tube ( a bastard of a job on the car after you find out it touches ) so do it while the turbos are off the car and you have plenty room there . The only advantage with these dumps, the front pipes are very easy to fit on !! If you need to know anything else feel free to p.m.

Depends on the turbos you have. If you have Hks GTSS's then just machine the lot out, thats what i did . I must warn you they are a bastard to fit on .... and you cant fit the turbo brackets on them either .

Hey tommy forget about the tomei/june /hks or whatever just get yourself a red 202 put the rb26 head on throw the pushrods out make an adapter for the sump and then try to sell some to the japs , you make some money on the top ....