wrxhoon

What beer baron said is correct but allow $2000 for shipping costs ( including all the customs entries, q/t , steamclean and tow to the raw .Compliance for a 34 Gtr is about $4000 + tyres including the blue but if it has any aftermarket parts allow cost for removal and if it needs brakes you must only use Nissan parts and the front pads are about $1000. If it has new aftermarket pads and rotors they must be replaced with Nissan parts . When converting $ to jpy dont take the published rate , you are never going to get that the banks want to get some money too and i'm a shareholder !!! Ring around to find the going rate but you will find it will be 1-2 yen bellow the published rate ..

From about $3k for the 33 and from $3.5 for the 34 plus tyres and anything else you have to do to comply . You have to take of any mods on the car ( like exhaust , etc ..)and if the brakes are worn they have to be replced with stock parts. Very expensive on GTR'S, much cheaper on GTST's and GTT's .

Very easy to do a low 12 in a 33 R, I did 12.3@110 mph in a friends 33 . The only mods were: Power f/c, cat back exhaust, front pipes and ebc ( 1 bar boost ) . The only risky thing in them are the ceramic turbos, if they let go ( just a matter of when, not if) they usualy take the engine with them ... Plenty of 33's for sale in australia starting at around $29 k .

Consignment doesn't work like that , you are actualy signing the car to the dealer for him to sell as he sees fit , you never going to know the selling price . Its a very risky way to sell a car but most of the times it will work, for me no thanks , i prefer to sell myself and get less money .

Yes thats the one and its brass, How can you say that yours didnt have one ? IF it didnt you should drop the box out and put one in there . $12 for the bush and 3-4 hours work to R+R g/box .

If the synchros are working as they are designed to work then it doesnt matter if you wait or not for any forward gear as they all have synchros, only reverse doesn't. The fact that you are not crunching in other gears i good , it means the synchros are working . Each to their own on the oils but i like to use mineral oil in synchro boxes, i have found that synthetic oils slow the sychros, but thats just me. Everyone seems to be happy using them , like i said each to their own ....

If you no problem selecting reverse and it doesnt crunch then your clutch is doing its job , totaly disengaging . The fact that you crunch when you are trying to get it in to first gear when you are quick is a synchro problem . Yo will find that it will be crunching even when you are moving unless you match the revs , you probably do by toe and heel . When the synchros are worn out and you dont match revs you will get a cruching sound all the time on especialy on high rpm changes and when the box is hot . On normal say 3-4000 rpm upchanges you wont notice any crunching unless the syncro is totaly stuffed . Synthetic oils dont do the synchros any favours either , mineral oils work better ..

32+ 33 part number is :15208-h8911au I looked for the 34 number but i cant locate the oil filter box .

Try engaging reverse while you are stationary if that crunches it means the clutch is not totaly dissengaging , then try to adust the pedal under the dash . Make sure when you do it that you push the clutch in and wait a few seconds for the input shaft to stop turning .

I think you will find you have it wrong here . When the car is stationary and engine running the input shaft is turning but as soon as you depress the clutch it will stop turning in a few seconds .The flywheel still turns, the pressure plate still turns but the clutch plate is not touching the flywheel and the pressure plate so its not turning !! When the car is moving then yea the input shaft is always turning the same speed as the engine but as soon as you press the clutch in they can turn at different speeds as they are not touching any more. Say you are going 120 kmh and the tacho is showing 3000rpm clutch in the tacho is now 800 rpm or whatever the iddle speed is set at . Thats because the the clutch is not touching the fly+ pessure plate . I hope you can understand how it works now .. Now to FHTR32's problem . It sounds like when you started the engine and you had no oil in the gearbox the input shaft bearing ran dry and you did some damage there thats the reason it stops when the car stationary and clutch in ( as the shaft is not turning ) To test if thats it drive at say 60 kmh down a hill somewhere in say 4th gear then put your foot in the clutch if the noise is still there thats probably it then take it out of gear and see if the noise goes away but you still have to have the clutch pressed in . If the noise is very bad you should take the box out and replaced it , if its a very mild noise leave it until it gets worse . When you do a clutch you should always change the thrust bearing too . I assume you a skyline so it will have a spiggot bush not a bearing .

You can drive anywhere you like for as long as you like but you must live in QLD . If you move to another state to live you must get a licence there as soon as practicable but within 3 months . Nothing to stop you working in VIC and living in QLD for as long as you like !!

I'm glad it worked for you, as i said in my previous post it probably won't happen ( they go bust ) but it can and it has happened before so beware of what can happen. The other thing is you don't know how much they sell it for but i guess you don't care either as long as you get what you want .. Don't forget that the fact they have been there for 20 years it doesn't mean they haven't gone broke before ( in this case they may not, i don't know) and the next day they trade again with the same name just a different $2 holding company with no assets at all ! They don't have to offer warranty on cars older than 10 years or with more than 160,000 kms on the clock or cars with a price tag higher than $56,000 ( not sure on the price tag it may have gone up now) Of course they all offer at least 1 year warranty but that is not worth any more than the paper its written on !

Its not easy on the floor, if you had a hoist would be much easier . You may have to jack the car up on stands as high as you can unbolt the box and sit it on a jack ( you may have to chain it on to the jack ) .Drop the donk in place and do up the 14 mm nuts on the engine mounts then try to bring the box up to the engine, it maybe better to put something under the front of the engine sump so the engine leans back as much as possible that should make life easier for you . Now you can see why i take out engine + box as one unit much easier but you have to lift the combo a lot higher to get it in . If you need any advice while you are doing it pm and i'll give you my number, i may be able to help if you get stuck .

What do you meanby larger spline ? You mean it had the input shaft changed to a bigger shaft ? All you have to do is get a clutch to suit it, easy fix ..

You are going to have to undo the box so you can twist it around , thats why i take out engine box together , some people just drop the box under the car, i find it easier to take out engine box together , each to their own . 32 , 33 +34 all the same, i've done them all .

Just a word of warning here guys . When you take your car to one of these car yards on consignment don't forget you are an unsecured creditor ! Lets say they sold your car ( like you authorised them to do ) they bank the money and they happen to go bust before they send you your money then you cant get a cent , you will just line up like all other creditors . The bank will get theirs first ( as they will have a morgage ) then the ATO and then if there is any left ( usualy not ) all other creditors will share a few cents in the dollar and it will take a long time . Not saying it will happen but it can and in some cases it has in the past . Don't forget your car can get damaged as well and its up to you to fix

She will go in the same way you took it out !! I usualy take engine + box out as one unit and put them back in the same way . I dont understand what you on about driveshafts, the pass you undo the 6 bolts an dleave it there . The drivers side you either have to pull out or drop the lower control arm and slide it out so you can lift the donk out . Put it back the same way as you took it out dude as simple as that . I usualy assemble everything on the engine before i put it in .The air cond pump and power steer pump i tie on the car on the pass side and leave them there . If you still have the box on the car you will have to drop the box mount down so u can do up the top bolts just like you did to undo them . As for the clutch you have to make sure you line it up with either a tool or an old input shaft ! If its not lined up well you wont be able to bolt it on .

I have a pair of halogen 34 h/lights , one is perfect the other has broken brackets, if you are interested make me an offer, I'm in Sydney .

Adam in a perfect world that should be the case but we dont live in a perfect world mate . The guy that sold it will just say i told you the donk wasn't 100% and told you to make your own tests ..

I have to agree with that, the only other thing i have to ad, they try to steal stuff from them .

I thought you said you had the auction sheet and you was trying to scan it , now you are saying it was bought privatly ? I want an exact date that you bought the car in Japan not an approximate date, an exact date makes my life easier . If i was to buy it nad you bought it privatly i want the name of the person that you bought it from so i can confirm that the car wasn't stolen. I dont care about auction sheets, i know the k's are not real but i dont care about k's, i can see the car when i inspect, i can even tell you how namy k's it has done from the chip!! My only problem is to establish that the car is legit before i hand over my$$$$. Just like others have said i thought the price was set at $56 k including 6 months rego, now you are saying its an e-bay like, auction ? How much do you want for it?

gtr, 7 Feb 2006, 05:53 PM RB25DET Group: Members Posts: 1,715 Member No.: 5,240 Joined: 18th July, 2003 Warn: (0%) I'm interested in your GTR, when can i inspect ? Who is doing the compliance ? A phone number will be good .... Cheers -------------------- R34 gtr M-spec on the road now There is a copy of my pm to you and i asked when it was bought in Japan ( date please ) and the location it was bought in Japan too .

Even if its spotless they look around the fuel filler, inside the little door and if there is any dirt there ( always is it sticks to the old fuel ) they want it steamwashed . Mine was spotless i detailed it myself in japan and they picked the fuel filler, thats all they had to clean and Hobbs charged me $120 if i remember right .

You dont have a leg to stand on unless you have it in writing . He can just say he told you it was running on 5 cil . Good luck with it though and learn from it !

I hope you know there is very few with side airbags and they look ugly too. How much are you willing to pay ?