wrxhoon

I thought the price was $56 k is it not ? I'm intersted but you dont answer my question , why not ?

If you are rebuilding the engine its a good idea to get a new pump ( stock N1 pump is fine but you will find the problem is the crank ( unless you have a lete mod 32). You need a crank coller fitted on your crank or a new crank ( from a 33 or 34 ) . If you are not building the engine its probably not worth changing it ( its engine out job to do it ) . Possible to do on the car but i would renove the engine to do it .

I don't have any problem getting them off, i use 2 hands from the top if it doesn't come loose i use a wrench, no problem there . After doing that many that i lost count i worked a way of not spilling a drop of oil . I hate spilling oil because it sits on the top of the diff and because of the fins its very hard to wipe so i use to hit it with the steam cleaner . I got a plastic bottle with a little bigger diameter than the oil filter and a little longer ( 145a, i dont like using the smaller ones, gtrs dont hold enough oil as it is ), i sliced the bottle in 2 halves. I use one half and i placed under the filter fitting before i take the filter out ( i loosened it say 1/2 a turn first but still no oil cames out ), when i undo the filter the 1/2 plastic bottle catches the oil that spills out . I turn the old filter upright and carefuly take it out, i don't take the half bottle out until i install the new filter back in. I usualy take the diff breather off to make it a bit easier before i start . I undo the sump plug first and let the oil come out for about 1/2 hour by then the filter is cold so i don't burn my hands . I'm still trying to work a way of filling the filter totaly before i put in so far i only half fill it, when i work out how to fill it to the top i'll let you guys know too.

I have one, Jap, almost new,unmarked and polished s/s, cannon with another muffler further forward and a sillencer.

Fill the g/box and the transfer case until it starts coming out of the filler hole . About 3.8 lts and 1.8lt from memory . The attessa you have to fill to the max mark . ATF= auto tranny fluid . You can always go to Nissan and pay X3 for it if you want to have the same colour !

I have a set of buddy club struts and springs for sale pm with an offer if you are interested .

Thx ylwgtr2, Good to know, the one i pulled off must have been changed then .

Roy isn't but i am !!

So oil doesn't leak !

From the plenum ...

Are you sure ? I pulled one out of a 34 gtr V-spec and it looked the same as a nismo pump . It will fit the 32 no problem at all there.

It all depends on what was wrong with rest of it and what you wanted them to do . As it costs heaps for labour i would have done lots more but thats me and dont forget it costs money, lots of it .. The $4500 you paid they spend $300 for a gasket set $200 for piston rings and about $250 for bearings . Depending on what was wrong with the crank, maybe a grind and then undersize bearings another $150 max and $350 to service the cil head if they did that . All the rest is labour to R+R engine and strip and put together .

Did you remove the 6mm (10mm head )auxiliary bolt ? There is one in the front drivers side and 2 at the rear ( one on each side ).

The g/box has a drain plug( under it ) and a fill plug on the side . The transfer case is the same and the attessa in the boot has a bleed valve under it ( under the car) , undo that and let it drain out but you will have to bleed it to refill the boot reservoir. Attessa and trasfer case use ATF.

I don't understand what you mean , thats the easiest place to take it from, the vacium line that comes from the intake to the canister . You can get vacium for the boost controller from anywhere you like ( from the plenum ) . If you install the boost controller in the drivers side the run ( of the lines ) is to long and you will get big boost spike . ( it will work though ) .

If you have a hoist its pretty easy . drop the gearbox crossmember and you can get to the top bolts easy with a long extention, then use a short spanner to undo the top starter bolt from underneath, a U shaped spanner is ideal . Undo the attessa pipe and block it so you dont drain the reservoir in the boot, undo the tailshaft, the rail brace under the car,front pipes, unplug the loom, undo the slave, front driveshaft and dont forget the gearstick( take it off ) . If you have a pull clutch dont forget to release the fork too. You have to bleed the attessa when you put the box back in .

Dont use existing vacium lines, leave them plugged in and disconnect the stock boost controller ( the wire that goes to it ). Install the unit close to the turbos, pick your vacium from the line that goes to the charcoal canister, then the the line that goes to the turbos and have one side going to the front turbo actuator and the other to the rear . Plug the stock vacium lines that go to the actuators . Then the small ( thin) line going inside the car where your screen is, same with the electrical wires . Hook up the pos (red wire ) to ignition and the other wire ( should be black) to earth . Then all you have to do is read your manual to set it up to the boost you want .

You can use a gear puller to remove it, just use 2 screws on the steering . If you dont have one undo the main nut a few turns and leave the nut on then try pulling on it or bash it genly from the back with a rubber hammer. Before you take it out make sure the steering is centred and mark it with permanent marker ( the shaft and the steering ) so you can put it back in the same spot ..

They dont have a bearing , they have a bush and you can buy it from your nissan dealer for about $12-15 .

Get your boss to have the speedo checked by an instrument place and get the report . Elect to go to court and plead guilty with an explanation, produce the document from the instrument place to show the magistrate that the trucks speedo was out by 12 kmh ( if it was out by 16 kmh would be better ) and you have a very good chance of getting off . Good luck !!

I have never seen factory tests , the only tests i have seen are in motoring mags and they all different . This is from my own experiance , i have owned all of them at some stage and i have found the 34 to be slightly quicker . Dont forget it has more power than 32+33 ( but Nissan quote 280ps on all of them but they do quote more torque for 33 and even more for the 34 ) . I may say that the 34 runs higher boost than both the older mods as well . It is the heaviest of them all although its smaller than 33 and a little bigger than 32 . Dont forget a v-spec II 32 is not much lighter than 33 . All 34's have the same engine turbos and power besides N1 and NUR-spec . In stock form the 34 is by far the fastest around the track, it has better suspenssion by far and its the only one with alloy lower control arms .. As for calling it a godzilla or not i dont realy know but who cares?

Its bolted on the flywheel , get under the car and look from the front of the car towards the rear , you should see the bolts then, if not keep turning until they come to the bottom> Undo the ones you can see then keep turning until you undo them all . Next time you have to remove an auto box, undo the bolts first and remove it with the converter as one unit . Yes you should have taken the donk and the box out as one unit. When you re-install assemble the box on to the engine on the floor and install as one unit , much easier .

Not so the 34 is quicker than both 33 and 32 down the 1/4 mile, as well as higher top speed !

Retro wheels are the ones that do all the simmons repair work . Retro Wheels 74 Roberts Ave Mortdale (Sydney) NSW 2223 Phone 02-9570 3033 Fax 02-9570 4055 Just for the outter rim should be about $300-350, dont bother repairing it it will never be as strong .

It may sound silly but do you have compression on that cil.?