wrxhoon

You have to put the boot back in and it should seal .

If they give you a blue slip all you need to do is take the parerwork to your local RTA with a green slip ( ctp ) and they will tell you if you need an RTA numbers check .With most skylines they will tell you you need a numbers check and they will give you an appointment but there is only 2-3 RTA's that do it in Sydney , I know there is one in Silverwater and one in Penrith . If they cant give an appointment within a week then they will issue you with a interim rego until they do the check .

8 but very hard for all to fish, 5 would be more comfortable .

I hope you have your fishing license if you thinking of hiring a boat ( big fines if you get cought without ) . Depending on when it will be i'll be in too and if there is not to many i can supply the boat as well. A 24' with twin outboards all you guys have to do is pay for the fuel and clean the boat when we come back .

Warren + brown are very good and easy to use but sidchrome are the same and i thought around the $200 each is the going rate for a 1/2 inch .

Depends where you buy them , i got T1R'S for $340per corner for 275x35x18 . You are correct though the normal retail is close to $600 .

Go on a boat out to the peak, about 16 km out of Watsons bay .

of course it was on a private driveway , where else ?

steveL , I meant you dont need sealant on the rubber gasket but as i said earlier i use some on the half moons where they mate with the cil head case . I have worked on some old cars in my time, i have been around for a while and i owned a very quick EH Holden many moons ago .

It comes from the old cars that use to have rockers . You dont need any sealant on the rubber that goes in the groove , they never leak , most times you can even reuse them and they dont leak if installed correct. If you think they are hard to seal, how would you go with old cork gaskets ?

The saltlakes in south australia .

The correct way of doing it is , cut the rusted piece then weld a new piece of sheetmetal .

I didnt know Greek orthodox xmas was any different , at least the last time i was in Greece it was december 25th, i know their easter is at different time .

You dont have a hope in hell of getting anywhere near the redline with those mods . The 32 + 33 GTR is geared to so about 320 if you could get to the cutout but unless you have a very powerfull engine you wont go anywhere near . A stock 32 will do about 240kmh a stock 33 a little more and a 34 a bit more still If you could get to the cut out on the 34 you will be doing over 340kmh in 6th , but for a stock car about 255-260 is all you will do .

For $ 4000 you will get R+R engine out of the car, pull everything appart , inspect, and machining and if your lucky basic service on the cil head and give you a quote on the parts you will need . Depending on what parts you want to change but retail prices for basic stuff like pistons , rings , bearings oil+water pump timing belt and a set of gaskets $2.5-$3 k. If you find any nasty surprises ( and you will )It can go up a lot more from there .

Yor local Nissan dealer will have them, they are very cheap . I usualy put some sealant where they mate with cil head case.

If its at the rear its probably comimg from the 1/2 moons , did you change them ?

I t will depend on the condition of the paint on the bar now, if the paint is in goo nick all you need is a light rub ( enough to take all the shine off ). You dont need to prime just the finishing paint. If you are going to use 2 pack ( you cant spray outside , you need a spray booth ) then 600 paper is good enough, spray and leave gun finish . If you are going to use acrylic use 800 paper, spray the colour on, cut back and polish . If the paint is peeling or you have damage on the bar , repair the damaged part prime the the repaired part and finish as above, if you rub back to expose the plastic you will need plastic primer on the exposed plastic so the primer or finishing coat will stick, normal primer will not take to plastic well.

I have the MFD in pdf , P.M. your email and i'll send it to you . Have you got a 34 V-SPEC ?

That would be a 99 model ( if it makes any difference ) . Dont forget you can pay lots more for an 8 yo car, depending on make !

His heater core will still be full too .

If the engine is still in the car you are only guessing as to what you need to do . Pull the engine out and when you take the cil head off you can see if the bore is ok . If you just want a quick , cheap patch up job and the bore is ok then a light hone , new rings and check the bearings for wear , more than likely you will change the big end bearings .

Did you have a good look at the bore that the busted piston is? If you have score marks there you wont be able to hone them out , you will need a total rebore and new pistons . If its not scored and it doesnt have a lip then a light hone will do the trick , new piston rings and one new piston. You will have to rectify the problem that made your ringlands bust though or she will be out again very soon . I cant understand why you would want to use old pistons and a stuffed bore but you want to balance the crank ! Who will be doing the assembly ? If you need a bore + hone job pm , i can get it done for you for about $150 , just a light hone you can do yourself .

The meters ( well ticket parking ) are 24 hours per day in the city . Different prices after hours though . There on such thing as secure parking in the parking stations ! I know of a few cars stolen /broken in to at different parking stations .

8.5 ltrs , but its very hard to get it all out . Do a search and you will find how to get most of it out and how to refill it back up.