wrxhoon

www.belgarage.com.au

I guess by timing belt seting you mean correct valve timing . You have to line up the 2 cam gears on their respective marks , there is a mark on each gear and there is a mark on the backing cover , line these up . Line up the crank gear with the matk on the oil pump case then put the balt on . The timing belt should have lines on it ( usualy white ) for easy instalation line up all these , one on each cam gear and the other on the crank gear and thats it . Make sure you adjust the tensioner too .

According to the link it was a f6 ( 6 speed manual i would think ) .Sequential shifting doesnt help you can hold the gears in any auto . Well we will never know but my bet is he will be seen plenty of GTR exhaust on either standing or rolling start . What makes you think that the GTR will be slow from a rolling start , dont forget it will be on full boost !! I dont know how accurate the quoted power figures are either on the big ford . I know the 300 kw boomies are not 300 kw .

And the ford is assisted by the AUTO . How can it beat me if i was doing 108 mph at the end of the 1/4 when he is doing 105 mph ? It works both ways the awd is better for taking off , just like the auro is but both are hindered at the top end . One of the reasons i drive a GTR is the awd .

Well i didnt want to brag but since you mentioned the 34 GTR , i have one and when i got it from Japan bog stock with a catback exhaust ( i didnt have a stock exhaust ) i did 12.8 @wsid with a stock clutch as well . You can believe all the magazines you want but i have the run and timeslip to prove it . The link supplied by Big Rizza shows a BA typhoon has done a 13.2 @105 MPH.( 6 speed auto ). Dont forget autos are much better for taking off from standing start . How is that going to wallop my 34 when i did 12.8 @108 mph ? Standing or rolling start its obvious that i have his measure as i have the MPH at the end .Going on that run looks like all he will see is the tail lights and plenty of exhaust of the 34 . By the way he wont have any hope againiest my R now as i have some mods and have run a 11.8 @ 118 mph . Whats more i can drive it everyday on the street it has very little lag and i can boot it anytime ( wet or dry ) with heaps of traction . As i said before it may have ( i'm not sure that it has more power ) more power and more torque but it has heaps more weight too .

Your insurer will either repair the car or write it off . If they write it off they will pay you the sum insured ( if its agreed value ) less any excess. If they deside to repair it they will pay the repairer NOT you . If they deside to write it off you can make them an offer to buy it or go to the auction and bid on it , if you are the highest bidder its yours .

Good luck wolloping GTRS with your typhoon, your best hope will be to keep up with one in a drag race . 9 times out of 10 you will see the rear exhaust of the GTR. I know they have more power and more torque but the have to haul 200 kg extra too .

i have a jap s/s r34 exhaust for sale , it was on a 34 gtr for a few months , if interested p.m.

Its just a breather for the diff but if you dont put back in you may get water or rubish in the diff so you better put it back a.s.a.p. . You will see the pipe on the top of the diff the hose should be atached to that .

How do you know it was an sti? If it was you wouldnt see anything other than his exhaust pipe .

That will depend on how much coolant you leave in the system .If you empty out all out it will hold about 7-8 ltrs .You can mixed before you put in or add water after but if you add water after how would you know how much it will take ?

E55 will do 12.5 1/4 mile @116 mph, his stockish 32 R will be about the same at the end of 1/4 mile with a lower mph but the in next 400 mts all he will be seen is the big mercs tailpipes ! It will take a GTR with bigger turbos to beat the merc to 800 mtrs .

As long as you dont kink the lines its fine, the length wont make any difference to the pressure . Coil the hose if you have to but dont kink it , the longer hose is better as you have more oil and its easier to cool it .

What security said , if you want to get the coolant out of the block undo the block drain plug (on the exhaust side ) .If you want to empty the heater core put the climate control on max ( 32 i think ) and the ignition on . I usualy undo the radiator hoses and flush with fresh water , when all the water drains out then i do everything up and fill with selected coolant , i use ready mixed 33% , if you go to the snow use 50% .. when you are ready to refill there is a bolt on the plenum side ( it says never undo when hot near it ) , undo that and fill until coolant comes out of that , then do the bolt up and fill the reservoir the the max line as well . Drive at least until it gets to normal operating temp and when it cools down or the next morning take the rad cap off and check to make sure its still full , do the same with the plastic tank .

You have to undo the brake booster ( you dont have to undo the brake master ) from the inside of the car 4x14 mm nuts from memory . Push the brake booster out a little and then you can get the clutch booster out , its pretty easy .

Beer baron is correct but you dont pay import duty on the freight cost from the jap docks to here , you only pay import duty on the jap land freight cost but you pay gst on the lot . Just like he said no legal way to reduce the tax and if you do cheat and get cought you may loose the goods and be charged with criminal a offence , not worth it to save a few $ .

I dont know about that Tommy , i know of Porsche GT2 thats geting bigger turbos !!! So who knows ?

Is the C55 stock ?

Clutch hydrolic problem by the sound of it , master cil or slave cil or maybe out of fluid .

There is another bolt on the other side ( outer side ) you have to get to from inside the inner guard . You may have to remove the inner plstic guard to get it , then out it comes .

Duncan you are a cheapscape mate , you dont get much for $2k . As for your spun big and bearing , i would say it was your machine shop , who ever did your crank but you should have checked it when you assemle it to make sure the clearances were correct . I'm you will do that the second time around , like double check this time . If you need a good crank place p.m. and i'll give you his details. PhilGTR, a good engine builder will checl everything when the engine is disassembledand replace evetything that is worn . Always rebor, hone and deck the block , new pistons to suit ( with rings ), check crank , new bearings, ( big end + mains )new oil pump + water pump , new gaskets and seals and service cil head and new timing belt , tensioner and iddler . Thats a very basic rebuilt fo any engine and by the time you pay for R+R at least $7-8 k for a good job .

I have a gtr oil pump in sydney , was replaced with N1 , make me an offer .

Beer baron, thats why i got mine under 1500 kg (A 34 gtr ) , all 33 gts's are well bellow 1500 , around 1380 kg . You can go to a public weigh bridge get aticket and take it to RTA so they can correct it .

Falken 326 and 512 are just the same crap, but fk451 and st115's are quite good .

If you lost power it's not good , sounds like ringlands . Does it blow blue smoke ? Any blowby when you take the oil cap off? Is it still running on 4or 5 cil? Do a compression test and take it from there .