wrxhoon

Correct Richard , same in both mate , but Nissan have the oil as well but they know how to charge . Make sure you bleed it though , some people have trouble geting the screw plugs out so make sure you can undo the fill plug first before you let the oil out of the trasfer case .

Try bringing this example to australia , comply it and then registered for under $40 k. It realy depends on the car and how much you are prepared to pay for it , in Japan fine examples like this one bring big money but they are far and few in between . On the other end of the scale you can find 32 gtrs for less than 500,000 jpy . http://auctions.amayama.com/nissan/skyline/1452011/

First undo the pipe the goes into the rear of the transfer case ( 14 mm pipe spanner if i remember right ) , block the end of it so you don't loose fluid ( if you dont want to change the fluid in the boot ) , then undo the little plate where you say its leaking and seal it with a gasket or liquid sealant , reinstall the reverse order . If you want to change the fluid in the transfer case undo the plug under it and drop it out then undo the filler plug on the side and fill until it starts coming out . If you want to replace the attessa fluid , undo the little bleed nipple under the boot on the drivers side ( under the car where the reservoir is )and let it drain out . Fill the tank in the boot to max and then you have to bleed the system while you keep an eye on the tank to make sure it doesn't run low . To bleed the system you have to activate the attessa pump , yopu will find that you have to find a plug under the dash , near the steering ( refer to the workshop manual as to what you have to do , not sure on the 32 , i cant remember ) . Once the pump is going you undo the bleed nipple on the transfer case for a second and do up again , repeat until there is no more bubbles in it . If you dont bleed the system the attessa wont work as its meant to , you have to bleed the system everytime you pull the g/box down to do a clutch as well . You can use Nissan matic-d auto fluid in both , i dont , i use dextron III . I hope that helps you .

They should have filled it when they did your clutch and bleed it as well . When they drop the g/box , they have to undo the pipe that goes in the rear of the transfer case , some fluid would come out . Take it back to them and tell them to bleed the atessa .

You should do an easy 12 with 191kw and auto tranny, good luck, i maybe there as well .

Nismo Gtr 33+34 clutches have different part numbers , icouldn't tell what the diff is though . I have fitted them both ( both pull ) but didnt look close enough to see any difference , my guess is they will fit eachother ( only a guess ) . Most 32's have a push clutch, only late models have pull . If you are talking about stock clutches , i know the 34 R has a dual mass flywheel the 33R doesn't , if you change flywheels it would probably fit .

R32 coupe turbo manual 2.290 million jpy R33 2.878 R34 2.898 List prices are for base cars without any option fitted and with manual box , in reality most cars would cost more .

I have a set in perfect condition , in Sydney .

Well the slave is of my r34 gtr ( replaced it with a Nismo ) and its like new so i want $70 . If you dont care about the condition ( leaking ) you maybe able to find a cheap one but if you need one in perfect condition this is it . They are the same 33+ 34 .

I have one , are you in sydney ?

What kind of money is all this costing you ? Is the $1750 extra for the parts you have mentioned above ?You should always use new bearings in any engine built especialy a hot engine , 330-350 awkw is a lot of power . $850 is a bit over the top for an oil pump when retail from Nissan is 600-650 and you can get them a lot cheaper. Blue printing means double checking everything , everyone should do some of it , again especialy on a performance engine . For than kind of power i would even use a new crank and new rods , rod bolts and head bolts or studs but thats just me , others will tell you your old rods and crank are fine .

Who told you that ? I think i should know whats in this engine , i helped Mick assemble it and put it in the car !

No Andrew , i expect my car to make about 260-270 rwkw on that dyno, but my car is pretty gutless , just about everyone makes more power than me ! I will let you know what power mine makes on this dyno when she goes on it soon . (yes, but what cams and afms?) Beer Baron : refer to post 7 . There is plenty wrong with airboxes when you make that kind of power, but he wants a stock car .

Tommy , Let me know if you are going for sure and i may make be able to come too , who knows i may give the 34 a run as well, or better still the 33 if Mick can make it . Charlie , is your car ready to go ?

Sounds like your master cil is leaking . Depending on what car you have as to how much it will cost . I asume its a gts not a GTR , its easy to change but if you dont know what you are doing take it to someone that does . If you tacle it yourself ( if you are handy with a spanner ) you will have to bleed the master cil and then bleed the the pipes from underneath where the slave cil is .

Take them out and replace them with hks turbos .

Stock bro, even has a stock airbox .....

5 Minute job

It is only on the c/f factory fitted bonnets ( all V-SpecII's have them ) but i'm fairly sure it comes off . Its not even painted the same colour as the bonnet .

I can assure its not an aftermarket item its a stock Nissan item that all series 2 V-specs have . Try another dealer , one that deals with imports .

You mean to say you disconnected the knock sensors ?

I havent seen a shop that doesn't have at least one timing light Timing on rb25's should be set at 15+or-2 degrees at 650 rpm . What was your timing set at before ? It can make a lot of difference .If retarded it wont have any power , if advanced to much it may ping ( knock ) and you may blow it up . I dont doupt the 50 kw increase if your timing was way out , but the power your car is making is fat to optimistic in my opinion . As i said before its an auto and you have the aid of the torque converter and second gear . A good way to find out the true power that your car is making , take it to wsid and see what your terminal speed is , thats a very good indication of your average power .

How could you say that Nick , the guy has it all in writing 191.6 kw, ah and he has a big polished fron mount too ....at 102 kmh , that indicates 2nd gear ..... How can you compare power of that car to a manual in 4th gear ... you cant , its just a figure thats all . Links you are on the money mate 2nd gear with the aid of the torque converter ....

Master cilinder , slave cil, fluid line from master to slave , a flywheel ( if not supplied with the new clutch , thats all i can think right now .

To thick for my liking for a good stock engine and road use especialy in winter .Probably good for track use .If you have a built engine with bigger clearances then it maybe good .