wrxhoon

Make it as big as you can fit on your land and as high as possible , even if you dont want a hoist in there, its cooler and you can use the height for storage . Minimum 7 mtrs long if you want a bench at the rear . 415 volt comes handy for the hoist , welder and tyre machine . If you can aford it make it double brick , much cooler than steel ( a lot more expensive though ) and use a sectional door not a roller . If you need a heavy duty floor 150 mm thick with 2 rows of f82 mesh will do the trick , otherwise 125 mm thick with a row of f82 close to the top .

How would you know are you in everyones pocket ? I have one and i know of several people that have 34 gtrs on this forum .

You are right Duncan on the turbo bit but nur-specs have steel wheeled turbos as well . I have had 32 +33 cil heads off the car but not side by side so i can only go on i have heard , thats why i said i'm not sure if they are the same or not . I never had a 34 head off the car so i cant say on that for sure .

Late model 32's have the 33 crank , how do i know ? The 32 engines have different oil pick up strainer , its different where it mounts on the block . The 32 has a groove and it uses an 0 ring as a seal , the 33 is flat and it uses a gasket . I have had an engine with the earlier strainer , 32 water pump and the 33 crank and it wasnt changed i'm sure on that as the engine was original . Duncan , i'm not so sure that the cil head is the same ( not saying its not though ) and the dumps are different . Overall though there is not much difference in all the rb 26's , the main reason for making more power in the 33 + 34 is the tune and more boost . You are correct on the hpi crap , they say that the 34 turbos are steel wheeled as well , how would they know ? Some guy was arguing with me about the 34 turbos , he said it was a well documented fact that they are steel wheeled because hpi said so , some people believe everything they read .

P.M. send

You have a p.m.

Buy localy if you can , you can see the car and its already registered , there is always a risk that you may not be able to get it complied /registered due to rust or previous damage . Dont forget it will cost you more than the aproximate price on their website as well , for instance if you have to replace brakes , thats extra and stock items are not cheap ( you must use stock pads and rotors ). The $4k they estimate for compliance could cost you $5 , 6 or even more . They dont allow enough for transport , the actual boat fee may only be $1000-1100 but when you start adding , customs , q/t , tow truck , steamclean and tow truck to the steamcleaning place , it will cost over $2 k . Tyres , you will end up with some crap asian tyres that you will throw out and they have to be stock rims and stock size tyres .

Perfect 60 ft , i only wish i could do that in mine but then again i have an extra 100 odd kg on me ! Good to see MADGTR having a go , if i knew i would have beeing there to match race him , as we have the same set up in our cars . What was your trap speed Paul ?

That makes it a bit hard but still doable on the car , after drilling it heating it up to 100 degrees will help . Dont be surpriced to find the manifold bend and not fitting when you try to put it back , you may have to drill the first and last holes a little to make it easier to fit . Make sure its not cracked , as they are known to crac as well , they are so long.

He was at CRD at about 2:30 pm yesterday .

Take the manifold out and you may find that the stud ( not number 6 i hope ) sticks out and you can grab it with multigrips . If broken at the head level drill the centre and use an easyout , you should be able to get it out , i have done it before , its common on the rb25 engines . Usualy number one or number 6 will snap , when you put the new ones on make sure you do them up with a torque rench . Either way it has to came out you can leave it like that .

They do fit , offset is +30 front and rear but they are heaps wider than stockers at 9" . On full lock the fronts may hit the plastic iner guard , i'm not sure as i didn't drive the car . I have a pic of a 33 with them on that i took when i was in japan if you want to see it p.m with your email and i'll send it to you , i have one with 33gtr rims as well .

It would be nice if you replyed to my p.m. of 8th of october .

Are you going the gtss road Andrew ? All you need is the turbos ,dumps, power f/c, ebc and 550 injectors , as long as you have a good donk ( do a compression and a leakdown test to confirm ) and you will have a much quicker car and almost as responsive as it is now .

No they shouldn't have ,as they supply all the fuel needed, i dont know if the cams are the same in the 3 cars , so that maybe one reason , different turbos is another and who knows they may run more timing as well as better dump pipes . Ports and valves i think are the same but i never had a 34 head off the car so i cant say for sure , i'm only going on what others have told me . I know from experiance they run more boost .

Glad to hear that you got it out ok mate , i knew you could do it . I forgot you had an auto , you dont even think about auto lines .... Did you lower the main crossmember ? If you did it would be very easy to get to the top 2 box bolts , the only hard one would be the top starter bolt , easier with a C shape spanner and bit of mussle ( you need it with a short spanner ) . Now you have to take off all the hang on bits off and deside who to take to to rebuilt it i guess . Just a note , dont have the chain very short when you put it back in unles you use a bar . if the chain is very short you are pulling on the mounting bolts very hard , only have it as short as you have to for clearance .

Well , i have a 34 engine , almost new , tune of course is different well under 12-1 at 11.5-1 , i wont run 12's on a stock engine . I dont have cam gears or dump pipes but the 34's have s/steel dumps not cast and i have 550 injectors , the other thing mine will only make 240 awkw . I'm not after big power in my setup , i just want a quick street car not big dyno numbers . I did 11.8 @ 118 mph a couple of weeks ago with a bit left in her still , i'm happy the way she goes as i have plenty response , almost like a stocker and 34's are more responsive that 33's and 32's (if all 3 are stockers ) . Actualy if i had steel wheel turbos i wouldn't bother with the gtss's , thats the reason i tried to buy an NUR M-SPEC , maybe next time ! Gtss's are not cheap but in my opinion ideal for a stock engine but stock injectors would be right on the limit , thats why i went for the Nismo 550's ( again not cheap , you can get sard much cheaper ).

My Gtss's spool up to 1.2 bar at 3800 under load with stock cams and no cam gears ( 550 injectors go to 92% duty ) .

Brake pads and or rotors dont have to be changed if they are still good ( must be better than 50% left on pads and rotors within specs ) . It must have stock pads/rotors not aftermarket , front pads about $1000 from Nissan . The car must be all stock to comply, no aftermarket parts and no previous body damage/rust unless on bolt on panels . New stock size tyres ( 245x40x18 ) on stock gtr rims 18x9 , even if it has new tyres fitted in japan you still need new tyres !

Nismo coppermix twin plate , fantastic clutch and it feels almost like a stocker , especialy if you use the bigger nismo slave with it . It comes with a lighter flywheel a new release bearing and new flywheel bolts . I dont know if you can get a push nismo twin clutch to suit your 99 32 , check it out on the Nismo website .

Try pumping the pedal , does the pick up point change ? If yes then look for hydrolic problem . Crook master or slave cil .

Look at it this way , if you are prepared to fight it you will get off but it will cost you heaps of money . The cops will lie in court , they will say you were the only car within 200 mts and will stick to their story under cross examination , i can assure you of that . Silver eagle readings should only be taken if there is no other car within 200 mtrs of the target vehicle ! They must track the target vehicle for a minimum of 3 seconds and have a clear uninterupted doble tone as well .( almost impossible in a built up area ). Laser guns can be used ( and they are ) everywhere as they point it on you . If you deside to fight it and you need a radar expert p.m. and i'll put you on to him , you will need a lawyer as well .

I couldnt remember if you had my number Adam , i have yours ... Dont remove the air cond condenser , you have to let the gas go , it will cost you money to re-gas and its not legal to just let it go you have to catch it . Undo the rear g/box crossmember ( undo the 4 bolts ) so the box can tilt rearwards , then you get to the top bolts very easy with a long extension , on gtrs i undo the main crossmeber bolts about 10-15 mm so i can tilt the box more . I never had an engine out of a 34 gtt so i dont know if its as hard as gtr but if you cant get to the top box bolts do that as well . Suport the box with a jack or something else and once you split the box from the engine you can rebolt the box crossmember if you want to move the car around . I remove engine box together as one unit but in your case dont do it you need heaps of height to do that . I would remove the gearstick surounding mould and the gearknob itself so you dont damage it . Dont bother removing inlet or exhaust manifolds , just make sure you unplug everything and undo all the heater hoses from the firewall . When you undo the loom just leave it on the windscreen out of the way . If you need a bit more room take the fan off the water pump if you like , that will make it easier to take the radiator + cowling out too. Make sure you block the trannie oil lines when you undo them from the radiator ( unless you have an oil cooler) so they dont make a mess . When you lift the engine out , lift a little at the time and double check if it will clear everything ( and keep checking as you lift ) and you didnt forget anything , like wires plugs...

Thats very common on rb26's when a turbo lets go , i have seen heaps with ceramic dust through them , i must say i havent seen it in an rb25 . He said he has the cil head off , so he can see the condition of the bore , a borescope is put in through the sparkie hole to inspect the bore .

Adam , Take the radiator out , the first thing yopu will do . Dont forget to use a sheet of plywood or chipboard to protect the air cond condenser . Dont bother taking out alternator , unbolt the air cond compressor and secure it on the rail do the same with the power steer pump that way you dont have oil spilled everywhere . Undo the engine mount nuts ( from under the car ) undo the tranny bolts and the starter , then split the box using a huge screwdriver and or tyre lever . take the front pipe off but leave the turbo and dump on . Mount you chain on the mounting hooks at the front and rear of the cil head . The bonnet should be removed before you start , a bit in a hurry , if i forgot anything when you are about to remove it p.m. if you like or ring me and i'll try to help you . No you dont have to remove the harmonic balancer , the engine builder can do it with a rattle gun easy . P.m if you want my phone number . You will be fine mate , you can do it .