wrxhoon

Duncan , It doesn't sound good mate , at a guess ( wild one at that ) i would say its a big and bearing , usualy one at the rear ( number 6 ) but you have a built engine so who knows if they checked clearances or not when they assembled it . Compression on number one is very suss for a built engine as well as number 6 . when you say wet test ai would assume you mean you put oil in the cil and heaps of it by the look of the resaults . The comp test shoul be done on a warm engine and the throttle fully open . Do a leakdown test it will give you a bit more info ( more reliable ) . Does the knock get louder as it warms up ? Is it there when you first start it cold ?It could be a lifter or even an injector but my money is on a big end , but i hope i'm wrong .

i have a set of buddy clubs , height ajustable , came off a r34 GTR V-SPEC II , they will fit the 33 GTR .

I didn't think you liked chicks Mona !!

The reason i went the gtss's is because i wanted to retain a responsive car. The 34 r's are very responsive with the stockers and i could have about the same power with them but wasnt game to keep them just in case they let go and then take the donk with them too . If i wanted power , i would go much bigger turbos and some cams , dumps , bigger bore exhaust , airflow meters , injectors , fuel , pump and even more . My car would only make about 230 awkw but thats how i like it !!

That would be good and see if we can get a few more gtrs there as well . By the way my car DOES not have big power , actualy its fairly stock , Just the baby gtss's ,( to scared to keep the stockers ) power f/c and a small bore ( barely 3") exhaust . Everything else is stock .

Sorry about the double post

Tommyk at wsid do an 11second pass and a few other lines .

[ I'm just whinging because i still dont know where a decent local 4WD dyno is <{POST_SNAPBACK}> South coast , Albion park .

Give it a bit more time !

I didnt say that either , what i said was "its unlikely that a worn stuffed engine would have even compression " not imposibble though just unlikely . Old worn engines dont have so even compression on all cilinders and that leads me to believe that it may have good comp much higher than the test . If the true comp is 120 psi on all cil that engine would be gutless in stock form with stock or near stock boost a 6 cil bommy will kill it . Thats the reason i suggested he does a leak-down test that will prove the state of his engine .

Dont pull your engine out , it looks like you ahve a good engine there . The comp test gauge may be reading low , who did it ? if a pro did then treir gauge is reading low and they probaly know it . If your engine was stuffed its unlikely that it would be so even , my bet is it woul vary a lot more than that , regardless if you are loosing comp from valves or rings . Do a leak-down test if you want to be sure . Standard comp for rb25det is 12.2kg /cm2 (about 170-175psi ) @300rpm , limit 9.2 and difference limit between cil 1 kg/cm2 . rb25de standard comp is 12.8 kg/cm2 rb26 dett 12kg/cm2

If your conrod bearings are worn or they pick up a little, the knock will get louder long before one ( usualy number 6) or more spin . The engine will be fairly quiet when you first start it up ( cold thick oil ) then as it gets warmer it will knock more , if you spin a bearing it will sound more like a diesel (very loud ) and could say goodbay to your crank then . If you keep driving it with a spun bearing then you could break a rod and make a big mess .

Not so the series II 34's have slightly bigger ( about 20mm bigger) rear rotors and slightly thicker too , the calipers are the same though. Not so the boot trim is still there on the series II , however most sII that i have seen dont have the wiper motor cover but i did see 2 in japan that had it and they were both early S II , late 2000 mods . You are correct that they have clear front and side indicators though . All models have the handle above the window .

I have a set of five , as new , how much are you offering ? pm if you like . As you know i'm in sydney

My bet is on big ends , as geoff said the start so you can only hear it with no or very little load , when you gun it you cant hear it yet . I think BAILED you will find that you cant hear it when the engine is cold . I hope i'm wrong though .

The condtion of the rings and pistons .

I can get you an N1 oil pump for $450 .

Sewid pretty much summed it up . A couple of points though . V-spec ( series I ) has harder suspenssion than base r34 gtr but in the series II ( v-specII ) its harder still . I believe the M-spec ( only comes in series II , from may 01 onwards ) has the same or similar suspention to V-sec sreies I . Its hardly soft i can tell you that and its harder that normal 34 gtr . Tacho is as W20GT said , ATTESSA pro on all v-specs . As Gengis said M-spec has nothing to do with Mines . Front defuser comes on all v-specs , m-spec + nurs The bigger brakes come on all series II cars Front bars are all the same to my knowledge . Another thing is the M-specs are 20 kg heavier ( both standard and nur ) M-specs come with a larger battery with the big posts . I cant remember if there is anytning other than that or other than its been said above .

Yes

If you can afford o 34 gtr you wont be dissapointed at all , if you can buy a V-Spec or better still M-Spec or Nur-Spec . I can assure you you wont leave it stock for long though . Thre is no comparison with the s15 or gtt for that matter and in the wet you just power on when you would be sliding in the s15 .

Not the same at all , you can have good compression and worn piston rings too. 150-160 a bit on the low side , when did you do the comp test ? after you realised the catch can filling up or before ?

You will grow out of it one day tommy , i don't know when though , i still haven't but who cares ....

Do a compression test , u may have busted a ringland when you boosted it .

How much oil does the catch can hold ? not the engine . I'm trying to determine how much oil goes in the catch can and how long it takes to fill up ( as in how many k's ) . How much oil does your engine use ? as in how long before you have to top it up ?if it uses say 1 lt or more per 1000 k's , the only solution i can think of is a rebuild !! If your engine is anywhere near healthy and you run stock boost you should never have to empty the catch can . You will get very little oil in there if engine is still good . If you want to know for sure a leak-down and compression test will show the condition of your engine ...

I was wondering how long you guys would persist trying to tell him how not to stuff his turbos /engine again . He just won't listen so let him find out the hard way again .... I'll tell you once and only once , if you want to run the lowest possible boost you need to run a vacium hose straight to the ACTUATORS ( no holes no restrictors on the hose ) , then as soon as you have enough boost to push the spring on the actuators the wastegate will open and bingo no more boost !!! How much boost that is , whatever the spring takes to stretch , if you want to check that you can just run compressed air to it with a boost gauge on like . If you want to run maximum boost take the hoses off the actuators and i can assure you of one thing , goodbye turbos ( stock ceramics i asume ) and more than likely goodbye engine . Its as simple as that , the choice is yours ..... If you cant understand that DONT play around with your car , take it to someone that knows what they are doing . Dont even try to change the oil , more than likely you'll stuff up there too .