wrxhoon

Adam , If you deside to pull your engine out and rebuilt it yourself let me know , as i have machine shop contacts to get the bore out , crank and cil head done . All the above around $500 , if you want prices p.m. and i'll find out for you .

By the sound of it the oil leak is the least of your problem . Its normal to get some condensation in the oil catch can, but if it fills up with normal street driving your engine is not healthy . Empty it out and see how long it takes to fill up , how much does it hold ? how much water in it ? How much oil does the engine use ? is it fairly stock ? how much boost ? Stock pistons or forged ?

If the catch can can just fills with water , you will find the oiul in the engine would be milky too . If thats the case it could be a leaking headgasket and or cracked head/block , h/gasket the most likely . If your catch can fills with oil as well then the bottom end , rings most probably are worn .

Of cousre a 95 engine is old , its 10 years old ... an engine with 30-40% leakdown will still perform well enough . You dont need to put oil down the spark plug holes in to the cil to do a leak-down test . When you doing a compression test if the comp is down in one or more cil , then you put some oil in the cil and repeat the test if comp rises by a big margin that tells you you are loosing comp in the bottom end like rings worn or cil scored . If it doesn't rise with the oil then its top end , like valves .

14 something

That way you will save the R+R cost and i'm pretty sure you can do it yourself , all you need is an engine crane or block + tackle and somewhere to hang it from + a mate to give you a hand when you are ready to pull it out ( i'm sure someone will help you out ) , i would if i was a little closer . If you deside to do it and you get stuck give me a buz . Good luck with whatever you deside and look at it this way you are going to have a better+ stronger engine .

Yea Adam you summed it up fairly well mate . Compression should the same in all cilinders in a good engine but it depends how its done to what the reading will be and its acceptable to have some varience up to say 5-8 % . The upper readings in your engine 11.5 kg/cm ( 161psi ) ( if i remember right ) is a little on the low side for a good engine but still good for an old engine . A stock as new engine ( rb25det ) should have 12.2 (173 psi ) , a comp test will not show low if the bottom end is slightly worn ( not broken ) , like worn rings or pistons for intance because the oil takes up the clearance and you still have good ( almost perfect ) compression . It will show if you have worn top end ( valves not sealing 100% ) . The leakdown test will tell you a lot more as you shaw in your case on that cil where you had good comp but heaps of leakdown . On a new , as new engine it should be no more than 5% but anything up to 30-40 is acceptable for an old engine , again the lower the figure the better , my car has less than 5% on all cilinders . Have you desided what you are going to do yet ?

You have a 95 model 33 series I there not a 96 , 96 models are series II , they have different steering wheel and stereo suround .

If you cant buy what you want , there is a couple alternatives . Go to jaycar and buy eyelet terminals or cut your old battery's lead posts drill a 6-7 mm hole in the centre and screw them on the new battery and you have new posts . If you have the stock 33 gts the negative terminal has an eyelet so you can just screw that one on and you only have to worry about the + . I hope that helps you in someway .

You will find that most car makers recomend that the belt is changed at 100k or 5 years whichever is first , age kills the belt as well as use . It may very well last twice as long but if it breaks it cuase a lot of damage so its wise to do it as soon as possible .

GTR every time , 350Z ( used ) can be had for half price here . The only thing better than an R34 gtr is a NUR- M-spec . Why would you want to buy an auto ?

275X35X18 are the perfect fit but 265x35x18 are just as good , i had them on 10" rims (265) before and they are good . I wouldn't go any wider than 275 if i was you though . What brand of tyres are you looking at ?

Did you read this post Paul ? What part don't you understand when you are refering to "Jerry rock bottom rate " ? "As for been possible in 8 hours or not Just a couple of things Paul . First i dont have a workshop these days so i dont do work for anyone but still do all my own work at home . The other thing is i didnt comment on how much you charge , i only commented on the 16 hours you said it takes you to R+R the turbos and i said , someone with experience and the right tools should do it in 8 hours max . On your hourly rate of $ 60 its a bargain , i wouldnt do it for that if i still had a workshop , $ 80 is more like the mark . So yea i thought 16 hours is a bit over the top when you can R+R the engine for that time " I won't argue with you any more . All i can say is i can do it in less that 8 hours and most of other people that i talk to can do it as well , not my problem if it takes you twice as long ! IOWNU was charged for 8 hours and $450 as well ! But that was in Melbourne they are probably quicker down there . " Labour? Thought i'd add to the drama, my mechanic charged $450, for 8 hours work " "

You may not pay but its payable , regardless where you buy localy or o/s . You must also pay gst on the cost of freight .

I thought you had a compression tester but didn't have a leakdown tester , if you dont have one give me a p.m. let me know where you are and i maybe able to help you. More oil on catch can ....... not good news , check for blow by as well . I hope you havent busted it ....but it doesn't sound good ..

Good to hear , it got there quick , just put it in , it should be fully charged .

If its lowered , v-spec and a cannon mufler its probably butthead .

Thats what i'm afraid too , you probably cracked a ringland but it will show in the comp test , the suss cil will have lower comp , probably around the 70-100 psi . Have you noticed any blow-by ? oil in the catch can ?

Compression test will show if you done a ringland you dont need a leakdown test for that . To do a leakdown test you need a leakdown tester you cant do it if you dont have one .

The 15% duty is long gone from anywhere , its now 10% from countries other than USA ( since jan 1-05 ) however bigdatto is correct but in practice what SK said goes , no-one will open a parcel from USA but dont forget the 10% GST is payable always .

Mate i never said anything about what you charge i had a very successfull business for many years and i know the costs of running one . I just commented on the time you said it takes ( i hope we understand each other now ) and on the fact that you commented on me not knowing how long it takes because i have never done it before and i was giving an uneducated comment . This is what you said in the above thead , " The reason i charge 16hrs min. to do this job......is because it takes that long.....ive done about 5 of these twin low-mount upgrades/conversions and you dont get it done much quicker than that " You said because it takes that long ( 16 hours ) , well it does not take 16 hours for an experienced person to do it . Thats all i said all along ....it takes half that max . As far as you over or under charging your customers it has nothing to do with this or me , you charge whatever you want , it has nothing to do with me , its between you and yours mate .

Just a couple of things Paul . First i dont have a workshop these days so i dont do work for anyone but still do all my own work at home . The other thing is i didnt comment on how much you charge , i only commented on the 16 hours you said it takes you to R+R the turbos and i said , someone with experience and the right tools should do it in 8 hours max . On your hourly rate of $ 60 its a bargain , i wouldnt do it for that if i still had a workshop , $ 80 is more like the mark . So yea i thought 16 hours is a bit over the top when you can R+R the engine for that time ....

I have done it several times mate ....... not an uneducated comment at all . The last time i did it was a few months ago . I have heard of people having them swaped for as little as $450 , mind you i wouldnt do it for that , but most will do it for $600-800 . It takes less than 16 hours to R+R and engine on a GTR .

16 hours to R+R low mount turbos ? Are you kidding Paul ? It can be done in 8 hours easy by someone experienced and with the right tools .

You don't say if you still have the stock computer and stock boost . If you have the stock ecu its probably running very rich .