wrxhoon

You don't need one , just pump the brake pedal and start from the wheel thats further away from the abs unit then work your way to the closest . Suction pumps are good for workshops because they are quick , if you dont know how to use one you will run the master cil dry and then you have more work in your hands . If you do manage to get one make sure your mate is standing by the master cil with the barke fluid toping it up as you go .

I have a pair in white came off a r33 gtr and they are white in Sydney .

Thats about right when normal operating temperature is reached . It should be higher when cold and when air cond is on . Do you have aftermarket computer ?

950-1000 rpm , how do you know its 1100 ? Are you going by the the stock tacho or power f/c ? Stock tacho on the 34 at low rpm is not accurate . On cold starts it should be higher by 200-300 rpm , what problems are you having low iddle or high ?

Depending on leather selected ( it makes a lot of diff in the price ) and style you can get a car done from about $2500 up . Kris did you know that M-spec sets have suede on the top sides of the front seats ? The stitching is gold not red , only the R is red .

The best way to describe it would be like draging a chain on the ground . It can be hard to hear in a noisy turbo car . Its easy to hear it on a stock none turbo car when under load in high gear , sometimes you can hear the car next to you when taking off at the lights uphill . Nozila : From my experience they use 100 , i was using 90 ron an a hired mazda 2 and she was pinging !

Normal pump fuel in Japan is : reg 90 ron and premium 100 ron . You can get pump fuel at 105 ron but its very rare to find in servos .

Sure the freezing will make them stronger and the shot peening helps as well Nick , it all depends on what you are looking for though , stock rods are very good and they dont fail with moderate mods but rod bolts do .

Agree with that , if i wanted stronger rods i would change them, but each to their own .

I would only go to 86.5 given the option ( if i could clean the bore with .5 mm ) but when i rebuild mine a couple of years ago i didnt think i could get away with 20 to thou so to be sure i went 40 thou. walls are thick enough with 87 mm bore even for highly moded engines . Bigger bore will give you higher comp if everything else stays the same , piston pin height , h/gasket block and head . You can increase comp by using a thinner h/gasket and or decking the cil head just as easy . .5 mm extra bore will give you 30cc extra so you have a little more capacity as well but its only very little gain like 1.2%.

I had 87 mm bore in my old 33 and 8.7 to 1 comp , she was a quick stock car , 11.7 @121 mph with just N1 turbos and power f/c . So you should have a very quick car if you keep the compression up . Good luck with it Nick .

I can get you a new N1 oil pump for $450 + postage

You are not right my friend , Charlie is closer to the mark , although he is out in a few thinks as well , he has under estimated afew things . Shipping for starters if roll on roll off is only $1050 ( i wouldn't do it that way , container is the way to go on a car like that ) but when you add all the extras like customs clearence , q/tine and a steam clean it will be a little over $2000 + tow to steamclean + workshop . The other thing is stamp duty in nsw is 3% for the first $46 k then 5% for the balance + normal rego and ctp . As far ass compliance goes , i can get it done for $4000 ( even less ) but you have to add the cost of new tyres up to $2.5 k for a set + maybe new brake pads around $1k + removal of any aftermarket parts ( exhaust , pods ,etc ) so in reality it maybe a lot more than that too. As for luxury tax , yea its 25% but only on the balance above $56 k not on the whole amount . That car seems very cheap from my experience though , it should be around the 7-7.5 million jpy . If you look at the other cars they have at that site you will notice that is very cheap so i dont know if accident car or not . When i was there last year if i found a good NUR M-SPEC for 6 mil i would have it here now , i can assure of that .

This is what you should do : ignition on climate control on the highest temp , undo the bleeder fill the radiator until coolant comes from bleeder , do it up and fill the bottle . Start the engine until normal temp ( thermostat opens ) , let it cool down , then take the radiator cap off and top up , check the bottle and if down fill . No dramas if you dont open the bleeder , it just means that you will have to put more coolant in after it cools down , the system will bleed itself . It will be fine as long as you top it up , the bleeder is there to make it easier .

You would need to rebore the block , new o/s pistons + rings , grind the crank ( leanish at the very least )new undersize bearings , maybe new oil pump and thats the bottom and done . Cilinder head it depends on whats wrong with it , maybe just normal service if no bent or burnt valves . Then the usual gasket set , water pump timing belt , maybe tensioner and iddler and of course some new turbos . Cost it will depend on parts used at the low end using all stock parts and assuming no damage to the cil head . Trade price from Nissan , pistons and rings around $1200 , bearings aftermarket around $150 for both big ends and mains , gasket set Nissan $300 , oil pump Nissan N1 $500 , water pump R33 $120 R32 $250 ( you should be able to use R33 , slight mod )timing belt Nissan $90 ( $60 aftermarket )tensioner and iddler aftermarket around $100 for both . Turbos depending on what you get , starting from garrett , around $2400 for the pair ( not available for about 6 weeks ) . Then you have the machining , bore 6 pots $120 minimum , grind crank $150 and servicing the cil head including valve clearence minimum $300 . Of course you will need 5 liters of oil , oil filter and 8 liters of coolant . While the engine is out you may want to install a new clutch as well , depending on the power you will have , anywhere from $550 ( normal single plate full face ) to $2000 for a Nismo twin ( if you bring it from Japan ). On top of that you have a profit margin on parts and machining say 15-20% and finaly assembling the engine and r+r from the car . Someone said something like $500 to r+r engine , if you can get it done for that its dirt cheap , it should be more like $1200-1500 for that . Thats the cheap version , if you want to spend more money you can always do so by sourcing some better parts or building a stronger engine with forged pistons , rods , crank, cams, etc . Do a compression test before you remove the engine of the car and then you will know whats wrong with it . Good luck with whatever you deside to do and let us know whats wrong with it when you pull it appart.

Matt , Pete is spot on , i have the evidence still here , the old pistons , the 3 rears stuffed when it spet a turbo in my old 33 about 2 years ago . Someone took it for a spin around the block and came back with one exhaust wheel in the cat and ceramic dust everywhere in the engine . I did a complete rebuild on that engine at the time , even the oil pump was scored a little . All 3 rears had low compression around 70-100 psi , 2 valves were slightly bent and ceramic crap imbeded in the cil head , not a pretty sight . I know of several rb 26's that had the same problem , some with less damage than mine , it probably depends on the revs at the time and if you backed off or not , as i wasn't driving i can't say what revs it popped ( i assume 8000+) and if he backed off straight away or not . I know SK is a bit skeptical even after i posted pics of the pistons in the forum , but several others have seen it happen . I hope your engine is fine but if i was you i will be budgeting for a rebuilt .

Justin , first i dont think you will buy a good NUR for 6 mil jpy , when i was there last year i offered 6.4 mil for one but they wouldn't go under 7 mil. Lets say you bought one for 6 mil , ( a bit rough or high k's ) thats about $73 k ( current rate 1$=82 jpy ) by the time you pay for shipping , import duty , gst ,luxury tax, compliance , rego and stamp duty you will be looking at about $110-115k . The other thing dont forget you are taking a risk importing as well , you may bring it here then you may not be able to comply , how much would it be worth then ? R34 gtrs starting price is about $65k here most are about 80k + , in japan they start at about 3 mil jpy . Dont forget he is asking $200 k he hasn't sold it yet and i doupt he will for than kind of $ . Low to mid 100 k would be more realistic if you could find a buyer.

Look in the engine bay you will see its red , the nur s-pec engine is gold and it has steel wheel turbos with ajustable actuators ( you cant tell if the turbos are steel wheeled by just looking at them but you can see the ajustable actuators ) The speedo also is a 300 k , not 180 , the blue car you are talking about has an aftermarket speedo 320 k if i remember correct .

You cant tell just by looking at the outside , once you lift the bonnet then the engine is gold , thats the first give away . Pm your email and i'll send you some pics if you want , it may take me a couple of days to dig them out though .

I'm not talking about the qld car , i dont know that one as i havent seen it . Talking about the car NXTIME is talking about in parramatta , thats not an NUR. The car in qld for sale for $200 k maybe a genuine NUR M-SPEC. Charlie i dont need to run the vin in Fast to know its not nur , i have seen enough NUR'S in the flesh in Japan ( i almost bought an NUR M-SPEC ) to know that that car is not a genuine NUR . I have a genuine M-SPEC ( not NUR ) "very rare 2002 R34GTR M-spec Nur.only 250 made in world wide,only one in australia.original car,come with log book/full history Long Comments This is very rare Nissan skyline 2002 R34GTR M-spec Nur.tuned by very famous work shop in japan(MINES).have full certificates approved by Mines. only 250 made in world wide only one in Australia suit new car buyer suit car collector general M-spec Nur Never been any accident 2002 R34GTR M-spec Nur 6 speed manuel Titanium silver 16000km Dual Airbag Leather seat(only come on M-spec Nur) Heather seats HID light Nismo front bumper Nismo side skirt Nismo rear lower spoiler Nismo Clutch Mines step2 pro ecu computer Mines step2 pro cam shaft Mines step2 pro valve spring Mines step2 pro head gasket Mines turbo outlet Mines front pipe Brand new ARC Titanium exhaust Brand new coil over suspension Brand new Buddy club QF 18x10 wheel Brand new 275/35/18 Tyres Brand new brake pads " In his ad he claims that leather seats are M-SPEC NUR , thats not true . All M-SPEC'S come with heated leather seats . As for been the only one in Australia , i couldn't tell you and i dont think anyone can for sure either . MIU that car (in qld ) doesn't have an v-spec II bonnet so it maybe a m-spec nur .

Charlie the blue r34 with the "nur" plates is not a genuine nur its a v-spec II 2000 model , the first nur was made 2001

If you talking about the 2.2 form a liberty bottom end then yea they are not much better than 2.5's . The 2.2 on the 22b on the other hand is a different story . So you think the japs dont know what they are doing when they still use a 2.0 lt in their own market ? The current jap sti will eat the sti sold in the states .

I totaly agree with you , by the way i owned a 33 gtr for a few years before i bought the 34 and several rexes including a v-6 (00 ) sti . 2GU UP First of all there was no 01 sti's sold in australia ,the first bugeye sti sold here was in late 01 but it was 02 spec . 02 and 03 there is no difference in engine or drivetrain only body differences . 05 there is they have a transfer case that you can choose the bias fron to rear but no more power . 05 also have a different p.c.d. ( 5x114.3 )so they can fit bigger bearings . As far as me being normal , well whats normal , i dont know maybe not . You are correct in saying that the 2.5 block has more torque but dont forget you loose it on top end as they cant be reved high and they are crap blocks . They only sell them in USA , they are easier to meet their emissions . If you realy want to know the best wrx engine is in the 22b and its 2.2 lts not 2.5 .

I have both 02 sti ( same power as 05 and the same weight 1432 kg )and a series II R34 GTR ( late 01) it weighs 1580 . I can tell you stock for stock the GTR will kill the STi anywhere , 0-100 , 1/4 mile ( 0.7 sec faster ) and around the track . If you find a very tight track the STI may stay with the GTR but its got to be very tight with lots of hairpins . A group C STI is much different though probably as quick or even quicker that a stock GTR , i dont know realy as i dont have any experiance with them . The 2.5 wrx engines that are sold in USA are not any better than the 2.0 lts , actualy the 2.0 lts are much better and in Japan make 225 kw @ the fly but a 34 GTR makes like 240-250 kw . The other thing dont forget that max peak power doesn't mean is quicker than another car of the same weight with heigher average power and thats the case with a GTR . As for a 33 GTST smoking an STI ,( both stock ) you are dreaming , even a normal WRX will smoke your stock GTST , anywhere and by a good margin too .