wrxhoon

It just sits inside the bar , pull the bar out a little from the bottom rear corner so you can pull the inner liner off . Pay attention how it sits in there so you can reinstall the same way .

You have to pull the inner plastic guard off to get to them Kris . the rear one you may get without pulling it off but the front one ( just a little further back from the h/light ) you need to have the inner plastic liner off , or at least part off tpo get to it . They 10mm hex bolts and they have a phillips head , if they not to tight you can get then with a screwdriver . You have to take the lower lip off as well , so take that off first .

You can be number 4 we only need one more .

How much would you pay for it ?

$1400 just to replace a h/gasket is a bit steep on an sr20 in my opinion .Are you sure that was just for the h/g replacement and not servicing the cil head as well ? If you just going to replace the h/g all you need is a headgasket , inlet and exhaust gaskets , all up uner $200 + oil + coolant . To do a complete head service you need a vrs gasket set ( it has everything you need to reco the cil head including h/g , inlet ,exhaust rocker cover and valve stem seals . Ring around any cil head reconditioners and ask them how much they want to reco your head , i can get it done in sydney for about $300 . Next step ask your mechanic to give you a quote to r+r the head , add together and thats it . Tell the head reco place to supply the vrs kit or buy one from Nissan youself ( you will pay 15-20% more that they will , they get a trade discount ) . Ask your mechanic how much just for labour or including oil, oil filter and coolant . See how you go with that but if the bore is scored then be prepared for a full rebuilt . Ever had a compression test or leakdown done before ?

Service the head , i mean check it out and reco , valve grind crack test cut the valve seats check the hydrolic lifters ..etc .. Thre is no point puting it back together if the bore is stuffed . Sure $5 k for all that is not expensive but you didn't say including in +out of the car and cams . Dont forget you have to pay R+R for the used engine as well and you are not going to have forgies , cams and fully rebuilt engine . Its your call anyway but i dont want to see you spend $3.5 k and have a stuffed engine again .

Mik did a few high 11's best been 11.7 and best mph 122 but he had some fuel problems . I will be out there in a couple weeks ( when my clutch is run in ) to see what i can do .

I have a 34 gtr but the battery is in the boot in the R's so i cant get you a pic . The post you have circled shoul go in a whole or slot at the bottom of the battery , you may have to take the battery out to see it .

I think it was stock height , i have a pic somewhere but it would be to big to post here . It was in a used car place ( the gtr shop ) in Osaka and they had another one there with r33 gtr rims as well . The one with the 34 rims had a price of 780,000 yen .

Check compression and do a leakdown test .

For all you know you may have a cracked head , if its just the headgasket just replace it . I wouldn't buy a used engine , especialy a very old one , you already have a used engine now , what makes you think the one you buy will be better ? $5 k to rebuilt an sr20 thats a bit rich you can built an rb 26 fro that or even less , depending on whats wrong with it . I would go option 1 , take the cil head off and if its not cracked , check the bore and pistons for slap if all good , service the cil head and replace the h/gasket .

When i was in japan i saw a 33 gtst with r34 gtr rims , it didn't have the front guards rolled and i looked on the inside to see if they were hiting . The only idication was the inner plastic at the front was sraped . Offset on gtr rims is + 30 and on gtst +38 but stock gtr rims are at least 25 mm inside the guards on both 33 and 34 gtrs .

Dont forget it all depends on the year the car was imported , the self leveling /washer for xenons only came in 3-4 years ago . There is plenty r33 gtrs with them on ( all series III have them ) and a few old 34's around with them but can't be done now , they have to convert them . I dont know any oem cars that dont comply , here is an example 02 stis have xenons in japan , the local cars have halogens because they wont comply with the 02 ADR .

They do , its just that you must have new tyres on the car and the raw has to be able to prove they were fitted new so you need the receipt as well . At least you dont have to change seatbelts now with dodgy chinese belts , like they use to do under the old rules .. You still have to change the mirrors though because they dont have the "e" mark on them and brake pads must be 50% or better or you must change them with genuine pads at $ 1000 for the fronts on the gtrs . The other stuppid one is the fuel restrictor , you cant buy leaded fuel any more so why install a fuel restrictor and if not done right it will leak down the track like heaps of imports do . The one that realy gets me is the xenons , they remove good lights to put crap in them that are dangerous you cant see anything at night when it rains !

$20 To Mwlbourne includes insurance .

Correct , skylines have a bush and if the car is fairly new and the bush looks o.k. i dont bother changing (I just replaced the clutch in my car and didn't change the bush ) . Cars that have a spiggot bearing , i always change ( the bearing can get dry , noisy and seize ).

You must have your parkers on then turn the swich on the lights stalk and you will see a light go on on the cluster to let you know your fog is on .

To comply with ADR they have to be auto ajusting and self clean . Xenons have excelent light thats the main thing but the h/light must be designed for xenon , not halogen and then converted .

No new wiring at all , they use all the existing wiring , take out the balasts and destroy the xenon fiting to fit a halogen globe . Because the h/light is designed for xenon globes , the light is so poor you cant see at night when its rainning . The hid globes are 35 watt , the halogens are 55w so the wires get hot and you get a voltage drop as well .

Hks gtss's are rated @ 320ps just check here . http://www.hks-power.co.jp/ I dont know about .8 bar at 3000 on a stock engine but i get full boost at 3800 in 5th gear in my stock engine . They dont have the top end that my old N1's had though .

They stuff the good xenons and replace them with halogens at compliance shops . Thats the reason you have problems with them .

Michael you are number 1 , ruffels is number 2 and someone else has shown interest but not sure yet .

I hope you looked after my baby , i dont usualy park in the street as i have my own lock up parking but had to go to the Rocks this morning and i didn't feel like walking , too cold . Its a stocker and a genuine M-spec , the pearl colour only comes in M-spec and Nur-spec , the smoked gauge is a defi boost and it only lights up when the ignition is on . What car were you in ? the Civic ?

Rear box seal is just that ( rear or output shaft seal ) . Front box seal is input/main shaft seal. Thrust = throwout bearing . Spiggot bush ( bush in the skylines , bearing in some cars ) , is the one that the main box shaft fits in and its located in the crankshaft . If i was to replace a clutch i would replace the thrust bearing always , spiggot bearing always , spiggot bush depending on wear but would replace on an old car ( they are very cheap ) . I hope that helps

You can keep your stock afms with the gtss's Kris unless you want to run huge boost ( above 1.2 bar ) .