wrxhoon

My clutch was holding 100% on road and while tuned , its just when you sidestep @ 5000 + to much heat in to it and then it would kepp slipping especialy on gear changes . On my last run i only used about 4500 ( not enough realy for a clean launch ) and that was my best run . Mods are as i told you before , gtss's , p f/c , 550 cc Nismo injectors , hard i/c pipping , ( stock i/c ) pod filters ,( for now , still looking for a stock airbox ) ebc ( 1.2 bar) , hks front pipes ,( stock dumps , they are s/s on the 34 ) 3" catback ( very quiet )and thats about it . Its a very responsive car with that set up . How long are you in Japan for ? good luck with the shopping list . Check your p.m

Yea i should be able to run a flat 12 or even a high 11 with a good clutch , i will be looking for a Nismo twin plate i think . Toyo 265x35x18 in the stock 18x9 rims and full street pressure ( 38 psi ) . traction wasn't a problem , the clutch wouldn't grab at any amount of rpm , i even went down to 2500 for a 2.37 60 ft . What kind of clutch are you going for ?

I launched at 5500 the first time but the clutch wouldnt hold then i backed off , one time i launched at 2500 but the last run was the best 4500 . GTRS need to be launched at 5500 -6500 to get a good 60 ft

You can be number 1 and maybe sandy if he still wants number 2

I was there with the covered number plates in the 34 GTR M-spec . Very busy , i had 4 runs all in the 12's with a best time 12.3 @ 113 mph but my stock clutch couldnt hold , my best 60ft was 2.05 . A silver 33 GTR series I was doing 12.5-12.6 .

90% of Taxis in Japan are Toyota crowns .

34's dont have a restrictor in the line like the 32+33's ( they still have the lines marked on the hose though ) . Stock boost on the 34's is .9-.95 bar with stock exhaust , they may spike a little higher .

I have one came off my old 33 , i'm pretty sure they are the same .

Sealed gel-cell batteries would last double the normal lead acid batteries as a rule . I have a smaller one im my jetski , i had it for 2 years now and its still perfect , i dont bother charge it in winter but keeps charge o.k . all winter when the ski is not in use . By the way these batteries are $140 now not 130 .

They are not going to hit the calipers at full lock , lock or no lock makes no difference . If they hit ans i have seen some that do they will hit on hard cornering when the wheels will flex , if you just drive easy they probably wont hit . If you find they hit 1- 2 mm spacers will fix that but they are not legal .

Make sure they clear the calipers , they are so close on hard cornering they may hit !

The starter will work if you have a fully charged battery and dont jam the bar on the rail , leave the bar some slack and put a block of wood on the rail so the bar hits the wood and not the rail . Hit the starter and if it doesn't undo don't hold the starter on , let go and try again but this time give it more slack , 2 or 3 goes and it will come . Make sure the bar will hit the wood only otherwise you will damage whatever it hits and don't stand in the way .

A pressure test will tell you if you have cracked head of blown h/gasket . Have you checked the radiator cap ? You cant go on the stock temp gauge , you are going to have to test it with a known good gauge then you will see what the temp gets up to .

You can have it for $1000 . The sus is almost new it came off a 2002 gtr but its the same as the 33 . If you are serious about buying it i would consider fitting it on for you for nicks . Something wrong with yours ? or you just want to upgrade ?

If you have a cracked head or a blown h/gasket you will be loosing coolant , the coolant level will go down bellow the low level in the plastic tank . How do you know its running hotter ? do you have a reliable temp gauge ? power f/c ? Or you just look at the stock gauge ? When the stock gauge is in the middle the temp can vary from 80- 105 degrees ! When you replaced the radiator did you use the same one ? same size core ? smaller / larger ? Is the auxiliary fan ( air cond fan ) connected ? is the clutch fan working ? Did you find out the reason the rad blew up ?

Deren , it could be your clutch , especialy if you have aftermarket clutch .

Put it in gear and pull the handbrake up very hard , if you have a helper get them to put their foot on the brake . If you have a gtr you will need a 3/4 drive 30 mm socket and a srong bar , for a gts 27 mm socket .

The k's will not change if you use another computer . If you get another cluster , it will show what was in the new cluster , the memory is in a chip in the cluster not the ecu .

I cant answer that , i have a power f/c in mine and shows the same as mfd .

Have a look inside the engine bay , next to your brake booster . There is the clutch master cilinder and a very small booster , thats the one . The diafragm inside the booster maybe stuffed or the hose going to it came off /broken . Geoff do you have a 33 gtr ? Have a look in the engine bay .

Sandy , they have all been accounted for but whenever i have 5 people that want them i can get them again .

bump

There is no way i would pull the starter off just to hold the ring gear . There is heaps of other methods to use , like the starter , always works for me or what Duncan said but you will need a 3/4 drive socket ( 27 mm for gts and 30 mm for gtr ) and a good long bar . I wouldnt try 1/2 inch drive socket on the gtr it may break , they are very tight . If i have the engine out i use a 3/4 " rattle gun . Don't use a screwdriver on the ring gear you may break a tooth or 2 .

Check the ecu to make sure its a stocker and its not chipped. Mine would max out 99-100% on 1.2 bar .

Yes the gtr has a booster for the clutch , sounds like the diafragm is leaking /stuffed so he can hear the noise and his pedal is harder , more effort without assistance .