wrxhoon

I would second that Duncan and a few busted sockets over the years as well .

I have seen it with my own eyes , rear turbine let go and destroyed the rear 3 cil , pistons and bore scored , cil head embeded with the ceramic bits and a coulpe of valves bend . I put pics up about 18 months ago , when i told SK he just wouldn't believe it was possible , he still doesn't . When a ceramic turbo lets go in an rb 26 , some of the dust gets sucked in , sometimes very little other times heaps . Even if you check compression and its ok if you pull the engine out you will find some scoremarks in it .

You can't put any negative feedback on this forum , you should know that . I can tell you though that Ben has tuned several cars for us over the years and i always got good resaults . As you know Miks car has run 11.3 @124 mph with normal street radials on stock rims and with normal weight ( 3720 pounds =1675 kg ), he has the same mods as you have, on stock internals . My old 33 gtr was good for 11.7 @121 mph ( heavy 18x10"rims + 265 street tyres ) only mods N1 turbos ( r 33) , power f/c , full exhaust ( 3" ) , and ebc . Everything else stock even had the stock airbox and a single plate clutch ! Ben will not tune your car for max peak power , what you will get is early turbo spool up and good average power , thats what i'm after . My r34 is going there next thursday for a tune , i wouldn't take it anywhere else thats for sure . As far as servicing and repairs goes , i can't comment as i wouldn't trust anyone to do it , i do all our cars . I hope you get good resault where ever you deside to go , you should have a very quick car with your setup .

2 turbos = extra $ , stick to one its much cheaper . 2x turbos with a max 200 kw will give you a little less than 400 kw max. 2 turbos( or more for that matter ) pumping 15 psi each on their own , you still only have 15 psi .

Take it to bel and see Ben he will look after you . Ben has tuned all our cars , he knows power f/c's and has the jap software.

Sure you can do that + a big bar .

not a good idea to use a rattle gun if engine still in the car , you have to remove the air cond condenser and you will loose the gas ! Just use a 3/4 breaker bar and i think 27mm 3/4 socket for your gts .

Its easy on a stand but in the car you have to remove the air cond condenser to use a rattle gun and you will need a 3/4 " gun , 1/2 " won't do it .

I did this a few months ago Purchase price + about 80,000-100,000 jpy to de-rego , store and transport the car to the docks in japan . +10% import duty on all the above + about 1800 -2000 aud for freight , customs and q/t . + 10% gst on all the above . + LCT ( in your case you won't have to pay it ) Thats your landed price . Allow $4000 minimum for compliance and import approval ( for r34 ) + brakes if needed + removal of any mods . Then all you have to pay is rego costs ( rego , ctp , number plates and stamp duty ) Stamp duty in nsw is 3% for the first $46 k and 5% for anything above that You will pay stamp duty on any car you buy , new or used , local or import so thats not an extra expense . If you need more info p.m if you like , i can put you in touch with a person in Japan , he will find a car for you bid at auction and do all the work to export it , there is no need to pay an agent in Aus $1000 .

Do you know for sure that in the first rebuilt the clearence in the big ends was to specs .02 -.04 mm ? How long did it last on the first rebuilt ? Did you use the same crank the second time ?

I was looking for tyres for my gtr and i came across these . Toyo proxes T1R's 275x35x18's 99Y . They are the top of the line silica compound and i've been told very grippy tyres . Retail price for these around $600 per corner . If i can get enough people to buy 20 tyres , i can get them for the bargain price of $340 each , thats well bellow wholesale ! At that price we have to do our own fitting and balancing ( around $10 per tyre ). Don't ask me for different sizes thats the only size at that price , they are good for gtr's all around or gts's for the rear . Anyone interested please let me know , i already have 8 on order so i need 12 more for this to go ahead . Pick up in Sydney . There is a link to the tyre http://www.toyo.com.au/

Looks like another rb26 with a big and bearing gone . By the way you describe it it sounds like big ends ( i hope not ) . when the engine is cold no noise as soon as the oil thins out it starts , my guess is the noise comes from the rear ( no 6 ) . You will notice that as you cover more k's it will get louder ( if its big end ) and eventualy it will spin your bearing .

You will need a a heavy duty 3/4 " breaker bar and 3/4 " socket . If the starter is still in you can try the starter trick but still beed 3/4 bar not 1/2 ".

These machines are very good and you dont need to be a pro to use them , they are not buffing machines though and they wont bring up a badly faded paint job . Don't frget you need a transfomer as well and they are not cheap !

Yea you are correct thats for a 33 or 34 pump , i wouldn't pay $300 for a 32 . The starter is a good way to undo the bolt , i use a 3/4 " rattle gun where possible to undo and a ring gear tool to hold the engine from turning to do it up if the engine is out .

If you talking about the gasket on the oil line to the block , it's paper .

You will find that changing at higher rpm will get you a better e.t. and mph . With the turbos you have i would change very close to the cut -out . 400-500 rpm will make a lot of difference . I will be taking the 34 back as soon as its ready and tuned ...

R32 gtr's can and they all should be under 1500 kgs on the rego . R33's and r34's are all heavier than 1500 but can be registered under 1500 kgs , i can't say in this forum how but if anyone wants to know give me a p.m. Like benl 1981 said it saves you about $100 every year !!

Genuine Nissan water pump is $132 including gst . The crank pulley bolt is very easy to undo using the starter method . If you dont know what you are doing you should let the pros do it , it will cost you heaps more if you stuff up. Timing belt from Nissan is about $80 , half that for aftermarket , drive belts are all less than $20 each atermarket . Spark plugs depends on what you buy , about $13 each for platinum . Coil packs from about $650 per set .

99 R32 gtr tare weight is 1430 kgs ( all fluids but no petrol in it ) 93 mod =1480kg 93 v-spec +94 v-spec II =1500 kg R33 gtr =1530 kg R33 v-spec =1540 kg R34 gtr =1540 kg R34 v-spec =1560 kg R34 m-spec=1580 kg It depends on who did the compliance as to how much weight is on the rego paper . I have a R34 gtr m-spec and its under 1500 kg ( i made sure of that at the time of rego ) I had a 33gtr that was under 1500 kg as well . If you want you can get a weighbridge ticket and go back to the rta i'm sure you can get it under 1500 even if you have a v-spec II .

You can get a kit ( rubber seals ) but you will find the master cil will be pitted inside so it may work for a liitle while then leak again . Just get a new master cil put in and bleed it . Duncan , you think master cil is hard to do on the gtir ? Ever tried to do a clutch on a gtir ?

I usualy plug the rear when i disconect the atessa pipe . The transfer case will leak from the gear selector and the g/box from the rear seal so i drain them . Front diff no probs beacause i leave the drive shaft in place . Engine oil will probably be ok but i always drain it ( i'm going to have to drain it to rebuild ) .

If your crank is still ok ( no cracks ) besides no 5 pin , you can have it rebuilt . They dip it in hard chrome to built up the pin and then have it regound . Its not cheap though as its time consuming , around 100-150 to do that one pin then another 150 to regrind the lot , big end and main pins . Just another option that we have used many times before on cranks and cams .

You dont have to cut anything it all fis out .if you dont draind the oils out its going pour out the rear when the whole thing is tilted .

The best tune would be a road tune followed by a dyno tune because of the high speed neede to tune top end .