shawn.szutu

the turbo of STI is quite small, it is smaller than TD05-16G(EVO's Turbo) just a little bigger than WRX TD04L (STI IHI RHF5 just quick spool than it) according to my expensive GC8 STI to do 12.5 (is his STI MY00 STI? or MY01+?) coz the turbo of STI at standard boost(14psi) can reach 80%+ efficiency of the total turbo output (IHI RHF5 series character) MY00 GC8 STI maximum boost can do 18-19psi evenif he tuned the boost up to 19psi, it wont gain more than 20kw at wheel you will find GC8 STI still can not run into tail 11's probably still 12.3-12.5 after boost up to 19psi it will f**k up the turbo quicker (IHI RHF5 VF2x or VF3x is not good for high boost excludes VF22 which can up to 22psi) a GC8 want to run into tail 11's still need to upgrade turbo(IHI RHF5 VF22@19psi) or keep to take off the interiors when you upgrade to VF22 but still can not run 21psi coz engine will blown quicker so it will need to make EJ207 bottom forged than it is possible to run VF22@22psi .... then you will find fuel system is not enough to support so it need to upgrade injectors and fuel pump for next moment, you will find high power output to f**k the gearbox up .... damn finally a lots problem surround GC8 STI evenif GDB STI ... it costs no cheap to modify a quick STI nearly to buy a GTR the all of GTR are designed to endure high power output, engine, gearbox, fuel system, intakes ... exclude factory turbos

no, factory GTR with factory turbos only solve your problem, it is just draw with your ride but when you have budget to change the turbos to GT-SS/T517Z/2860-5/R34 N1 (about $2000-$3000 without labour) GTR will be truely far faster than your gts-t coz your ride RB25DET run GT2835Pro is pretty quick now R32/R33GTR wants to do mid 11s, after you modify the turbos, it should be (car expensive but modification cheap) STI wants to do mid 11s, trust me .... it is not easy and cheaper than GTR maybe similar (car cheap but modification expensive)

it won't when you doing a rolling start to match with a factory GTR factory [email protected] possible to have 240-260atkw same as you have, GTR wont bite you in fact, the tail speed you may quicker than GTR coz your gts-t lighter than gtr about 100kg but the true value of GTR is the pontitial of RB26 and ATTESA ET-S SYSTEM both you will find your gts-s will be slower than GTR while weather or ground condition is bad GTR stll can endure more power output until 300-400atkw as well, but apply same power to your gts-s it will become a dangerous car, hard to drive, and also waste too much power on the ground(spin all the time) to say goodbye to your old ride is quite hard ... coz you spent too much on it just take a while to think about it, what you really want in the future? still more power (it just likes drag, you are hard to pull yourself out) ---> choose GTR it wont let you down again or enough power to drive ---> STI is nice and more comfortable than 32GTR 33GTR then make decision with no hesitate good luck mate

in fact, you will find a high power output FR is hard to drive it as well your problem is not with power output, the real problem is GTS-t is rear drive car change to 4WD(GTR) or STI may solve your true problem depends on you more like GTR or STI actually I like them both but I face to my real desire is more power potential and also driving stable so I chose GTR STI is good car but it is hard to getting power over 300kw, the price will be double up or triple up (full forge and EJ25 block need to apply cost huge) but 300awkw is piece of cake to all GTR (32 33 34), we can say 300awkw is just a start to a GTR 32GTR is more economy if you accept its little poor interior

i saw your real point belive me ... they are bullshiting GC8 (MY00) STI 190awkw cant do 11s with full car interior if they takes off full car interior maybe possbile to do 12s (factory GC8 STI MY00 only do 13.5++) GDB STI Spec C/Spec C Type RA/S203/S204/RA-R factory only do 12.9-13.2s (driver is japanese professional racer in best motoring video) a GC8 with 230-250awkw should be okay running into 11s If you really want to transfer to STI, you better to choose MY01 STI or later (STI V7+) The factory engine tolerance of GDB EJ207 is better than GC8 EJ207 GC8 MY00 EJ207 only can run boost about 19psi with factory bottom GDB MY01+ EJ207 can run over 19-20.5psi with facotry bottom I do belive GC8 STI must to get over 225awkw(300whp) may run into 11s tail evenif GC8 is quite light only 1250-1280kg 190awkw to run into 11s ?? they should be day dreaming

STI with mid-tuned just like i said to run a GT2835 or TD06-20G @ factory bottom limit boost about 19-20.5psi you can get more usable power than your GTS-t, that is true but 240-250kw is still hard to break into 11s .... runing into 11s is probably need 300kw-350kw at wheel .... STI wont make it easy and I also dont think you will save more money to modify a STI to run 11s and cheaper than modify a skyline in fact your GTS-t waste to much power ouput coz it is rear drive car STI,EVO,GTR is more efficient to output the power on the ground

mate, i just sold my STI to get GTR STI to getting huge power output costs huge price GTR is also 4WD(launching and cornering) and easy to make it output 300kw at wheel STI is nice car but EJ20 has too many weaknesses to get huge output it is quite stable driving coz AWD (all time 4WD) EJ207(STI V8+) runs a GT2835/[email protected] to have 250-260kw at wheel is its maximum limit (run 19psi is stable and long life but probably only have 240kw or less) If STI wants to get 300kw at wheel , you need choose 1 option from Full forged bottom to run high boost(23-25psi) or upgrade to EJ25 block that two option still cost you huge price and can not solve lagging perfectly (you need apply rotate the stroker it cost huge too) inline engine still has a lot advantage especially huge output modification I trust GTR is your best choice to have huge power

coz I found too hard to have 300kw with EJ20 (exhaust too long and lagging to push large turbo) evenif its big enemy 4G63 is quite easy to have 300kw without lagging (inline engine's advantage so as RB series) but EJ20 ... sad, you need to pay huge price to have 300kw maybe doulbe/triple up i still love subaru, if i had budget, i will buy one without powering modify(just do handling modifications) to enjoy driving it at this moment I just want to large output monster, i choose GTR to be my partner

without upgrading fuel pump and injector can do 300rwkw? RB26 is a amazing engine coz I just tranfer my ride from SUBARU EJ20 so I had quite lots question about RB26 .... shamed however thanks for your answer

Hi, mate so is health factory RB26 engine possible to endure 18-19psi boost if turbos are changed to a/m steel one? does the factory fuel pump (190L/H) or factory injector(440cc) must upgrade to suit 360kw at flywheel/motor ? hope you may give me a little suggestion thanks

you can do article search and ready them, lots ppl suggest do not over 14.7psi (1kg/1bar) coz BNR32 BCNR33 GTR standard turbo wheel are ceramic made not steel one i had blown ECR33 GTS25-t's turbo before, the turbo ran over boost at 18-19psi then blown immediately(wheels only) so I m quite careful to face the boost setting evenif the turbos of "GTR" but I still would like to hear more sounds to discuss and learn the boost up setting of GTR

anyone knows about Greddy T517Z I saw T517Z is expensive than GT-SS in yahoo japan does T517 has bigger wheel than GT-SS??

Hi, Guys I m just a newbie to own a factory BCNR33, and would like to do some upgrades Lots ppl said the factory turbo can not go higher than 14psi (16psi is dangerous) or the turbos will be blown If I modify the turbos to steel wheel one (HKS GT-SS,Greddy T517, R34 N1 etc) is the factory engine bottom possible to be endured at a boost about 17-19psi to have 300kw atw? we just ignore fuel system upgrades (injector or fuel pump), focus to factory engine tolerance to discuss coz I m quite curious to know is factory RB26 really possible to have 500-600hp (at flywheel)? or it still need to make bottom forges to have 300kw atw (about 360kw/480hp at flywheel) hope guys to give me some suggestion