The Bogan

Meh, At 60 years old, I have been doing dumb stuff for much longer than you mate, I am the true King And unfortunately I cannot be a maroon, as I am not brownish red As for not getting ITB's, the plenum intake will apparently show typical gains across the board and increase induction noise a bit, but, have all over less dort than ITB's Cost difference for the extra ITB dorts was significant though, the total parts for the plenum set up is "around" $2kAUD plus shipping, the ITB's were $4kAUD plus shipping, I was contemplating really hard about paying the extra $2k for all of the dorts, but weirdly, some form of common sense, from listening to the platform experts prevailed As for the NA mod hate by some, I've had a few boosted cars, with all their inherent issues, I'm now looking at simplicity and legalities for a street car, maybe I'm just getting old, and I'm quite happy to spend some of the kids inheritance, 5kw at a time 🤣 And think of all the money I'll be saving on consumables that something with boost needs, like engines, gearboxes, diffs, clutches, tilt trays... etc. etc. etc. 🤪

So, cams are not getting installed......yet Had a good chat with MX5 Mania about intakes, they recommend not to get ITB's, they recommend a plenum style for the NC So, one of these puppies is being ordered, with a larger TB to suit, when it arrives from the US the car will go in for the cams and intake I'm also getting a fancy rear box bit for the air filter box which will suit the new TB size

I also think it comes down to the dollars spent for quality items, there's some cheapie versions out there, which look fine, but, there are versions of much higher quality out there, but, you obviously pay more for the quality of materials used and quality control When I first got work done by Advan Performance on my old R33 the silicone joiners were cheapies and actually blew out on a joiner heading to the plenum, when I then took it to Unigroup they said that the silicone hoses they used and were junk, Unigroup replaced every hose on the engine with much higher quality items and from then I never had a issue with any hose Additional cost and quality gets you quality silicone base materials and quality reinforcement fabric stuff As for OEM rubber hoses, again, quality materials and strict quality control will give you quality hoses, but only to OEM spec, I believe using quality silicone replacements is a upgrade I saying this I have only dealt with vehicles I own and play with

Why? I just replaced every coolant hose on my NC with silicone hoses From my understanding they last much longer than rubber

Between silk sheets with a beautiful women at my side I raise the bid to 4 Toyota Yaris hub caps, of varying condition

Don't worry Uncle Duncan, whenever I hear a R32 GTR on song I will always think of you

I just joined the MX5 Club of NSW, they seem to run alot of cruises all over NSW going off their website NOICE

There might have been some "hard core" decalcification going on in the cells to create that noise As for chargers, I stick all our cars on a trickle charger every few months to "clean out their pipes/cells", the Mrs battery in her Mistsu ASX is still running its OEM from new battery 10 years on, and that thing does alot of short drives, and it can sit around for ages without a good long run

Weird story from me My Toyota 86 was with Commbank comprehensive but for market value (who they use to underwrite is unknown) When I munted it beyond financially viable repair in 2020, rear end smashed in to the point it bent the rear quarter and roof, they knew I paid $31k cash for it because I told them, they still paid me out $38k, as all the 2017 limited edition variants with typical Km and condition were going for between $36-41k, so they did weird math and came up with $38k I never officially mentioned any of the mods that I had done, but as they were not the cause of the crash they were not fussed at all, the insurance inspector actually asked if I wanted to replace all the mods with the OEM stuff if I still had it laying around before they took the car I still came out of it behind though, because I had probably dropped $20k in it with the suspension (bent after the prang), wheels (bent as well) and "other" mods, that the inspector asked about But still, as the market value was higher than what I initially paid, and they paid out market value To say I was surprised with the outcome would be an understatement Weird, but true, but probably just lucky with the inspector on the day I guess Sadly, I don't think if I munted the old NC1 MX5 I would get the same result Meh, pay to play

Well, the car is back, all straight and shiny, for how long for is anyone's guess After picking it up we went for a bit of a drive, Jebus I really enjoy driving this little thing, hopefully the weather let's us go for a nice long cruise this weekend as it will be out of my hands for at least a few days next week when it heads back into Mania on Monday It's weird, whilst I do always enjoy going for a drive, the NC makes me feel like a kid who has just got his first car, and they just want to drive wherever and whenever they can I really need to look into the MX5 Club of NSW

Toyota 86 seats as pretty sweet, but, their lumbar support isn't There is aftermarket air bags that you can fit inside the seat frame though that may fix your current seats, if, the lack of lumber support is the issue See post #8 https://www.gr86.org/threads/adjustable-lumbar-seat-mod.6907/

The rusty strut top area???

Research research research, and tackle the important things first, like the rust, because as a wise old hippie and some crazy horses once said "rust never sleeps" Nothing good comes easy and fast, and nothing that comes easy and fast is typically good

I made an extension of the item circled above in red that is hard wired to the battery and tucks away nicely in the engine bay, could easily do the same if it in the boot, just run the extended cable out under the bonnet or boot lid, I then just stick the charger on a milk crate to get it off the ground

I see your start stop.....and raise you a

Ahhh, that, yeah, but it all worked out well in the end As for the ITB noises, I don't really wind it out with her in the car, and the dort only really starts dorting hard when your WOT or up it hard

I'll tell her I put in a new air filter on it, which, it would have anyway with the ITB's In the end she isn't to fussed, she spends lots of money on hair, nails, make-up and all the other "required" beauty products that women use, plus I grease the wheels with shiny gifts and holidays wherever and whenever I can She once questioned my car spending "budget", but after itemising everything she spends on herself, and what I spend on her, and the fact that I don't care if she does or doesn't wear make-up and fancy pants perfume, or requires new outfits for every wedding, funeral or anything else she deems worthy, and I'm quite happy to go "real" camping, instead of staying in hotels or jaunts on cruise ships, she decided not to press the subject on how I spend funds, and has never asked "how much did that cost" again, so a win to me And how often can you say you really get a win with the fairer sex? She is a good woman, and in the big picture, I'm really lucky.....that she hasn't killed me yet

I see no real downsides to ITB's, apart from the initial cost of my drive in drive out lifestyle, the "upsides" is they sound cool and would add lots of smiles I am willing to pay to play for the extra smiles I've spent the morning googling and youtubing the BBR ITB's, a "little" extra power and throttle response, but alot more dort, and really, I'm only really in it for the dort Who knows, after all this money is spent I might even make 150kwatw....LOL

Or just buy a Hyundai Equinox (???spelling???) N EV .....LOL https://youtu.be/xrUrUdmZrfQ?si=BzZLIKFmeTVeartM

So, we now have a straight and clean boot lid inbound and the car goes in for paint, again, on Wednesday, and will be ready on Friday, all ready to get cams and stuff on Monday And by straight and clean.....I mean a brand new OEM one that cost..... $1300....😪 Sadly there's no clean undamaged used soft top version available, plenty for the power retractable hard top versions though, which is arse and makes Mark have the sads I could have waited longer, until a NC sort top boot lid eventually turned up, but I'm sick of waiting and said fark it and made it rain cash, meh In other naturally aspirated news, one of the guys at work brought in his old Corola which had a 4AGE in it, really nice clean car with lots of mods, including ITB's, man that things induction noise sounds sick with all of the dorts that makes you smile......maybe the NC needs ITB's, yeah, basically for the noise they make, but they're pretty expensive, but, they sound so damn good I may bring this up when I drop the car up on Monday, and by may, I mean I will🤣🤑🤪🤣

Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????

The Varex is good if you want the ability to quieten down a really loud exhaust, and a fairly simple install if you have the clearance In saying this, a well designed exhaust, that doesn't drone, and "close" to not being a "big heat signature" for the constabulary, is a better way to go Noise does not = power, but a well designed exhaust that isn't "overly" loud will not negatively effect power, it will though keep the constabulary off your back I had a Varex, and it worked well, super quiet when closed, but sounded like war when open and up it, I did have available "realestate" clearance issues under the old SS though running a 4" exhaust, and the Varex was the best option for me, as the space where the rear box went was available for the valve, so compromises were made to quieten it down I have seen, and heard, alot of nice RB's with just some resonators and/or muffler/s, which, while sounding "beefy" were not obnoxious cruising around, and not something that draws unwanted attention, but, they did get real rowdy when up it The trick is to get an exhaust fabricated that doesn't break your brain, or your passengers willingness to be in the car, on a Hwy cruise, i.e. no drone, and also not have your neighbours breaking your balls because their house vibrates and wakes their family when you roll in late at night, or when you head out early in morning, but it also sounds real good to the ear Post up when your done, whilst I no longer own a RB, I do love their sound with a nice exhaust, especially when there's a lumpy cam lopping away

So, not only do you have a plastic bag to recycle, like the old plastic bottles that were full of old oil that we took to get recycled, we now also have a cardboard box....for bonus recycling points, well, apart from the additional trees and the manufacturing requirements used to make the boxes Oh, and now nowhere to put your old oil in and take to get recycled Seems environmentally legit, and super helpful for people who change their own oil Who comes up with these brilliant ideas

I was once told, who it was I'm to old to remember, that the length of the OEM wheels brace supplied with a vehicle is designed long enough for a average person to apply enough torque to do up, and undo the wheel nuts to the specified torque What a average person is is anyone's guess though, i.e. average fat bastard, average knuckle head, average perfect sized human......like me Unless of course, a tyre shop has ugga dugga'd them up to "torque to yeild/strip" specs, used cross threading as natures lock tight, or a big breaker bar was used to tighten them up to get some nice stretch in the poor old wheel studs Me, I torque wheel nuts to 1 elbow joint click, lower torque settings are based of wrist clicks, higher torque settings are based of shoulder clunks, or total dislocation for anything that requires all of the torques