The Bogan

In this thing about this 100% renewal energy stuff I hear no one really talking about anything other than power and fuel really Power and fuel, whilst being a huge part of how we use the billion year old Dinosaur juices, are only 2, of the probably thousands of things that we need to use it for in the chemicals industries for making nearly everything we use nowadays I'm all for a clean planet, but if we want to continue to have all the day to day appliances and stuff that we rely on everyday we will still need fossil fuels Whilst I do love science, and how it can bring innovation, there's really a limit to how far it can go in relation to "going green" As for EV's, unless your charging of your own solar panels, it isn't helping the environment when you consider the the batteries, the mining processes required, the manufacturing process required, and how long a batteries (read: the vehicle) lasts long term If I was supreme dictator of the world, I would ban the use of sugar for fizzy drinks and food additives and use that for ethanol manufacturing, petrol engines would be happier, and people would be alot healthier Disclaimer: Whiskey manufacturing would still be required, so says the supreme dictator of the world Same same for all the vegetable oils that get pumped into all our food, use that for bio diesel Disclaimer: the supreme dictator would still require olive oil to dip his bread in This would take some of heat off the use of the use of fossil fuels which are required for everything we use, unless you want to go back to pre 1800 for heat and power, or the early 1900's for plastics and every thing else that has come from cracking ethylene Would I be a fair and just dictator, nope, and I would probably be assassinated within my first few months, but would my cunning plan work, maybe, for a while, maybe not Meh, in the end in an over opinionated mildly educated arsehole typing out my vomit on my mobile phone, which wouldn't be possible without fossil fuels And if your into conspiracies, we only need the fossil fuels to last until a meteor hits, or thermonuclear annihilation, that would definitely fix our need for fossil fuels for manufacturing and power issues for quite some time Meh, time for this boomer to cook his lunch on his electric stove and then maybe go for a drive in my petrol car, for fun

Nah, if I need to fit people in a car I'll just use the Mrs car, the MX5 is perfect for what I need as a fun little sports car for fun on the street As for getting in and out of the MX5, I have no issues as I am a short arse who does lots of mobility training 🥷 If anything, I have been looking at Daihatsu Hi-Jets for a work hack, I helped one of my mates move some stuff with one recently that he picked up from Just Jap, it was a little ripper and plenty big enough for what we needed, it would also be super handy for me as I do alot of gardening, and plan on having some veggie patches and native gardens in the place I buy next year when I retire I did alot landscape gardening and growing veggies prior to my current job, and loved it, and that is a hobby that can keep me sane in my retirement, and as such, the little 300kg load capacity would be more than enough for what I need it to move around I have been looking at utes for just this purpose for a while now, and a near new 2024 Hi-Jet can be had for under $30k And I would rather look at a quirky little Hi-Jet than pretty much any other little ute, well, apart from a Brumby, I love the little Brumby, and weirdly have never owned one yet I was going to buy a heap of raffle tickets to try and win the Brumby that MCM built for Subaru Australia, but sadly I totally missed the raffle, I even filled in some form to be told when the raffle started so I could buy tickets, but to my dismay I was never contacted and found out I missed it when I was randomly googling Brumbys last year... #conspiracy Maybe I should just buy a Brumby for a little "work hack".....LOL I use to be indecisive, but now I'm not sure

I just rolled over "my" first 10k km in the MX5 Every time I go anywhere it always ends up in a adventure to look at houses and find some random country roads I've been on leave since early November but unfortunately need to go back to work on 19 January Luckily though I still have a fair chunk of leave left to burn until.... Not that I'm counting 😁

Tips look fine to me......but Boring stuff: Legalities - Vehicle standards notes that exhausts cannot extend to a point where they could cause injury Scary stuff: Mrs cuts open her shin putting stuff in the boot (ensure you have some bandaids and shiny jewellery handy)

The "rag on a stick" is a easy way to fit in between the wheel spokes into all of the barrel Albeit I do have 10 spokes on the MX5 which limits the access to actually jam my hand in to clean the barrel, but it was also makes much easier to clean the 5 spokes on the Dunnydoore with it as well, as you don't have to worry the caliper getting in the way if you have at least about 15mm space between the caliper and barrel This of course depends if you actually have the clearance between the barrel and caliper, and the amount of OCD you have to get the barrels as clean and shiny as the face of the wheel The thing is bendy as well so you can actually shape it to conform to the inner lip of the barrel

I clean my wheels every time I wash the car, I also clean the barrels, the only product I use on the wheels is truck wash and a pressure washer, followed by (inset your chosen name brand) wash and wax, time per wheel is probably 2 minutes total, cleaning the barrels is easy with one of these microfibre thingies on a stick from Sabco, they're also great for getting in between the front guards and body, and tight spots in the engine bay

Is this not just about people wrecking, and storing, multiple cars in their front yard? I now a tow truck driver that was contracted by the council to clean up housing commission front and rear yards in houses and unit car parks I'm all for working on, and doing maintenance on your car in your garage or driveway, but some people definitely take the piss There's one house locally to me that I walk past regularly where the front yard and driveway looks like a wreckers, multiple cars in various stages of being stripped, and the yard looks like all of fluids are basically dumped on the ground I may be wrong, but it seems that the initial reports, which I've seen nothing actually official about yet, may be getting taken out of context, like alot of the latest "the sky is falling" stuff found on the youtubes for clicks

Might be tricky matching the seat trim material If your got the funds you "may" want to get the rear re-trimed as well to match the front

Thanks for that.... If only I could do something once and be happy with that, like some people do....

Got a quote back Manifold is $1500 and the dump $740 My only concern is the stainless dump, and the possibility of it cracking, I need to look into it more IRT the dump It does look like it would be the best method though, albeit a costly best method

Has anyone used > https://performancecoating.com.au/

Good point, I think you can get black ceramic coating as well, so that could be two birds with one stone

What's the difference in wrapping it in this stuff in relation to overheating the 304L stainless dump material and having it cracking at the welds from overheating the material? It would well on my exhaust manifold as it is some fancy pants cast material, but, I've used similar stuff before and it is problematic to get it looking neat as you need to fix it with "all" of the SS ties The stick on stuff is just for the firewall and OEM heat sheild I believe that, as I am only going to be running low boost and not pushing the turbo too hard (hence asking about the differences between a 0.64 and 0.82) extreme heat in the dump shouldn't really be a issue I am happy to talk metallurgy about a 304L material and what makes it crack

From talking to the mx5 guys the NC doesn't actually need bonnet vents like the earlier NA and NB models, due to a better designed cooling system and undertray design There's plenty of them used as street cars and weekend track toys running anywhere from around 170 to 250kw with stock non vented bonnets, I initially was going to get some bonnet vents, but, as they are not actually required, I'll put vents on hold for a while and just monitor temps, though I do need to get something to actually monitor engine oil temps though, coolant temp can be pulled from the OBD2, but the oil gauge in the car is not actual oil temp, it is only a calculation based off coolant temp and RPM ☹️ They do recommend upgrading the radiator, which I have already done with a triple pass, and the only other thing they recommend for a street car is heat management, like I talked about above to protect bits in the engine bay from radiant heat, and to either replace the nearly 20 year old plastic coolant expansion tank, which I have done, or get a aftermarket alloy jobbie for some bling They did also say that if I wanted to track the car on occasion a oil cooler and sump baffle would be required, and as I already have had a sump baffle installed when the engine was out......... I'm going to get a oil cooler with a thermostat....... just in case I do eventually track the car, but probably not, but still maybe...🤪

Pre-empting heat management 1. The Kraken manifold will be ceramic coated 2. Just purchased some peel and stick heat shielding stuff from car builders, I'll cover some of the firewall behind the dump and a little on the cam cover, this will be done prior to installation as I have ample room to get where I need to now before that realestate has more bits in the way, I'm also planning to modify the OEM heat shield to go back on, but that won't happen until after installation so I know where to hack it up, I'll also cover it with some some peel and stick to neaten it up after the hacking 3. As the dump is stainless with a flex joint coating isn't really a option, and wrapping isn't recommended for a stainless dump, so once it is installed I'll grab some shielding from car builders to cover the dump, as it has some stand off, it "shouldn't" cause any issues and it "should" just keep the radiant heat away from " melty engine bay stuff" Not for heat management, but I've grabbed some more black crinkle coat to paint all the shiny intake pipes, I'll pick the pipe work up prior to installation and use the paint booth and big oven at work to cure them, I'll then wrap them with some bubble wrap so they stay nice during installation

I had a look at the FAB9 EFR kit, around $8500 AU before delivery, so add in shipping, installation, consumables and tuning, I believe the price difference would be negligible And whilst I am paying top dollar at MX5 Mania, if I have any issues with the kit they are local for support, and from my experience, will happily go out of their way to help, hell, I've purchased parts from them and asked "how do I install or remove parts" and they have fitted a few of them for free, this means more to me than saving a few thousand dollars And yes, 99% of the time I just plod around in the car, that may change once I start hearing turbo whooshy noises, but, as I have 3 family members is the constabulary, even when I'm up it, it is only up to the speed limit, or occasionally, but rarely, overtaking on the Hwy (I just plod in the left lane typically and enjoy the drive) Plus the kids would never let it go if I got booked speeding, Jackie is constantly getting critiqued by the kids about her driving, which I think is hilarious, and tell them that she is "bringing shame to our family", so heaven forbid if I ever got done speeding, after all my mouthing off about her driving, I would never live it down, and it would be another thing she would bring up any chance she got Like the time I got drunk about 15 years ago and fell out of a cab, which gets brought up at least a few times every year since it happened Good times

Gents, it will be getting the MX5 Mania kit and the 2.5 will be staying where it is My query was about the 0.64 or the 0.86, whilst the 0.64 might spool a bit faster, would the 0.86 be better IRT EGT and mechanical sympathy, with only a small difference in spool And as I assume I won't need alot of boost to get to 200kw, probably around 10 psi, and with max rpm at 6500, would high EGT even really be a issue with a 0.64 I'm heading into MX5 Mania at the end of Jan to discuss the install, so any info is welcome prior to that Basically have a chat and book a time so they can throw on the turbo kit, and fit a oil cooler with a thermostat, drive in drive out of course In other news: just finished cleaning the car inside and out, it's now all ready to get covered in bugs and dirt driving to Goulburn tomorrow to lunch, and go for a stroll along woolondilly River with the daughter and her boy, and of course, visit my grandcats and my new grandpuppy

Cheers for the info mate, I'm old too, 60 years old next May, so a more linear delivery of the 0.86 would be better as baking tyres and snapping heads isn't on the cards for me or the car I assume a more linear power delivery would be better for engine and drivetrain reliability as well, IRT the torque load at lower RPM???, as well as lower EGT's???, if my understanding of that is correct, have I got that right??? I've only got a really basic understanding of turbo sizing and all there characteristics Cheers for the useful information

PULSAR PSR2860R 0.86A/R or 0.64 GEN 2 Turbocharger Both are -50*67mm 8 blade billet compressor wheel Cheers

This isn't for lotsa powers, and time and effort isn't even a thing I'm concerned about The whole reason is "Just because fun", and "Just because fun" is what I do And whilst there are other kits, with better and more modern turbos (Rev9 use the same Kraken manifold I believe.....EDIT... nope, the Kraken is a cast jobbie, the REv9 uses welded up stainless, plus $8000 AUD before shipping, installation and tuning) Where else in Sydney can I do a drive in drive out with the after sales support that MX5 Mania give My Turbo 86 made around 200kwatw on a AVO turbo kit that Pulse fitted, and it was over 100kg heavier than the MX5, but it was a blast to drive around the streets, until I crashed it.....DOOH, so somewhere around 200 ish level and some whooshy noises and I'll be happy driving to work, the shops, or heading into the country with Jackie for Devonshire tea So, thanks Dose for your info, it sounds like a 0.64 will be fine for what I'm after👍 The only real racing I do nowadays is to the toilet

This isn't for lotsa powers, and time and effort isn't even a thing I'm concerned about The whole reason is "Just because fun", and "Just because fun" is what I do And whilst there are other kits, with better and more modern turbos (Rev9 use the same Kraken manifold I believe), where in Sydney can I do a drive in drive out with the after sales support that MX5 Mania give My Turbo 86 made around 200kwatw on a AVO turbo kit, and was over 100kg heavier than the MX5, but it was a blast to drive around the streets, until I crashed it.....DOOH, so somewhere around 200 ish level and some whooshy noises and I'll be happy driving to work, the shops, or heading into the country with Jackie for Devonshire tea So, thanks Dose for your info, it sounds like a 0.64 will be fine for what I'm after👍 The only real racing I do nowadays is to the toilet

98 mate

Turbo gods, some assistance and recommendations please I'm looking into a turbo kit for my 2.5 from MX5 Mania >>>>> https://mx5mania.com.au/products/copy-of-mx-5-nc-2-5-litre-engine-conversion-turbo-2005-2013 Power wise I would like about 200kw atw, and of course dose noises, apparently if you keep a stock 2.5 under around 200kwatw the engine and drivetrain will not hate life even when ragging on it a bit Max RPM on the 2.5 is around 6500rpm The turbo MX5 use is something around the disco potato size as packaging room for the turbo is pretty limited, which will, I believe, give me my power goals I want and not have the turbo either under, or oversized, but the rear housing bit is confusing It comes with either a 0.64 or 0.86 From my understanding, which so far is based off googling, so make of that what you will 0.64: spools faster = good Makes more EGT heat on boost = bad Less topend power than 0.86 = I'm only looking for 200 atw so that point may be mute????, I don't know, hence my questions 0.86: Spools a "little" slower = how much slower??? remembering 6500 is my max rpm Makes less EGT heat = good Makes a little more power up top = again, power goals is only around 200 Also, this is a street car, so there will not really be any long track sessions, in saying this I would want it so it was happy with at least 3 hot laps at Wakefield Park if the need arises I already have a fancy pants triple pass radiator, and a oil cooler with thermostat will be getting installed as well Thanks for any information or recommendations you have 👍, and of course, the comments about me wasting money on drive in drive out modifications, or any other snide remarks about my manhood for owning a MX5 🤣

Tape some wool onto the vent then take it for a drive I did this to my reverse cowl and was instantly unhappy, as anything over about 60kph would have the wool enter the engine bay, thus just adding underbonnet pressure and stooging my coolant stack, it did let alot of heat out when stationary though, which really didn't help once the car was moving, with the reverse cowl you could watch the coolant temps cheap up the faster you went on the hwy, I assume it would be alot worse doing track day speed With the vented bonnet (just after the radiator and about 1/3 up the bonnet) on my old R33 the wool on the leading edge sat at about a 45° angle as air poured out of it From looking where your vents are, and their size, I believe you should be fine at speed and air should be evacuated from the engine bay, I think it will be a night and day difference when stuck in traffic though for removing the trapped heat, and not sitting there cooking when parked up after driving around... #convection Post wool tuft pics and data for science This beastie is one nice and unique rig, enjoy

As an ex-skyline owner Going off how these things are now "modern classics", I would keep the twins and just "refresh" bits that are required for reliable power and have a car you can take out for a cruise whenever you get the itch As a idiot who cannot leave things alone Going deep into the "rabbit hole" is a easy thing to do, as previously mentioned, once you start it becomes a slippery slope, wirh lots of supporting mods, and possibly rebuilds, and unless you have a bottomless pit of funds, the car can spend most of its life sitting in the garage, broken, waiting for parts, or building more funds For a classic like a R32 GTR Basically, a reliable OEM+ refresh, that isn't a broken garage queen, is alot better than a car that you build, then break, then fix, then break again And it isn't just the engine you need to worry about, these beasties are getting on in age, and all parts are getting, and have got, expensive, the days of picking up cheap replacement engines and other driveline parts are well and truly over The funds not spent on going a single with quality parts, and with all the other other bits required to make it happen, could be spent on refreshing alot of other parts A wise man once said "If you cannot afford 2 GTR's, you cannot afford 1", I also believe he said this about 20 years ago when you could pick up a clean R32 GTR up for around $20k My advice for a R32 GTR (the one and only true Godzilla in my mind) is to think holistically about the whole car, the body, the power train, the suspension, the brakes, and the driveline SAU is a wealth of knowledge with decades of Skyline experience, from stock, to OEM+, to modified to varying degrees, to full on or weekend or dedicated racecars, as well as full on money pits that rarely leave their garage Treat the old girl nice and give her what she deserves, you are a lucky man to own such a classic car