The Bogan

Removed the window tint today, the door windows and quarters took about 5 minutes total, the rear glass took 3 hours, it just didn't want to come off, the top tint layer came straight off but the plastic layer under the tint would come off with it, no matter how much heat or steam I threw at it, I ended up peeling it off at of a rate of 1 square cm at a time and it left all the bloody glue behind, metho made short work of the glue though. Its done now and looks like new, much cleaner really, I think I prefer it without tint. Also my rims will not accept spacers, I was going to get some 25mm ones to push out the track but luckily removed a wheel to check after taking the measurements, STUPID ROH RIMS..... Also I hate waiting for the mail man.

Chris, did you advance your timing, if so how much, it was recommended to me to advance my timing to 15 deg to take advantage of PULP only fuel.

Fitted the new fuel filter today, STUPID clip design, the old hose and clamp style was a breeze to do, the clips are APITA, I went to stick a golf tee in the hose but it didn't fit properly and leaked fuel, STUPID NEW STUFF. Fitted a better quality pod and mounted the IAT sensor in the top of it, also rerouted the hot side breather to a more stealthy place out of site. I was talking to a guy (65 yr old dude) who was at Just Jap the other day, he had a sorted white NA6 there which he races in the MX cup thingies and MRA, after bending his ear and bleeding him for info I got some good tips of him. I got the OEM strut brace that he recommended off fleabay for $110 delivered, the OEM item is a solid item whereas most aftermarket ones have got a hinge thingy where the brace connects to the mounting point, which he rates as rubbish as they twist and flex at the hinge and do next to nothing. Exhaust wrap is on the way, 50' x 2" in black with stainless ties shipped for $35, I just need to get a new manifold gasket and lower gasket from PEPS, I will wire brush the thing, remove the standard cover fixtures and give it a coat of high temp paint prior to wrapping. The brake, clutch and power steering fluids are next on the list, all it will take is plying my neighbour with alcohol and some time as he has already supplied the fluids at mates rates. I am tossing (LOL tossing) up wether to get a roll bar or a set of coil overs next, roll bar may win as if I do decide to track it sooner rather than later it will need one to pass scrutineering (I don't have a hard top for it yet). Work donated some nice stiff (LOL stiff) cardboard and I am attempting to fab up a template I am happy with for a cover for the pod, when I am happy I will knock it up out of ally at work and give it a coat of paint in the silver body cover to keep things neat. That's it for now, and with all this talk about tossing and stiff, I have things to see and people to do. Rock and Roll

R002's fitted. I have had a few attempts over today to fad up a CAI. Version 1 was all the std intake but with a larger feed for the CAI, I didn't like it. Version 2 was a totally different intake, I got the idea (stole the idea) from some Jap company (and Chubbs) that had made up a short intake which drew air from the cold side behind the headlight, all that was needed was a 90 deg elbow reducer 2.5" to 2.75" and a filter. It has really cleaned up the engine bay and after a quick test blast I am very happy, power increase? but the induction sound is pretty cool now. It is only a start for now, the filter was a $5 cheapy form Just Jap and only for fitting purposes, I am going to have a shop around tomorrow for a quality (LOL) pod filter and then fab up a enclosure. I will also get some wrap for the exhaust manifold as the stock heat shield is a POS (I didn't like the way it looked at me), some new gaskets a wire brush and then wrap is most likely take at least 6 beers. And that hectic cam cover breather will not be around for long either, it looks crap, a catch can will be plumbed to it at some stage, and by the look of that POS the sooner the better. Another fun day with more fun on the way. And that is one sturdy looking bar Andy.

I was thinking that but then whilst googling I seen a pic of a modified standard CAI pipe, the inlet at the bottom of the std airbox is appox 3" diameter but the std CAI has a 2" inlet, I am going to have a look around at some wreckers and attempt to find some OEM style 3" plastic pipe which will adapt (heat gun) to fit the std air box, I need something with 90 deg bend at a length of around 250mm. The smallest part of my intake will then be the throttle body. This should only cost a couple of bucks at the most and will increase the CAI volume by almost 100%, and look stock. It will get air from the spot behind the headlight you mentioned, just like the std one only better (bigger is always better, or so I have been told, lol) Well that's the theory, LOL.

Productive day in the garage today. 2.25 Cat back fitted, better flow and not hectic noisy, and about 1/2 the weight of the stock system, the stock headers will stay as they are a good looking system from the factory . Changed: Engine oil and filter Gearbox oil Diff oil Tyres ordered, 2 x Bridgestone Potenza RE002, a pair of the RE001's that are on it ATM are at about 50% so they will stay for a few more months before I need to replace them, the others are on the markers, tyres should arrive tomorrow. No wonder Chris wants a oil cooler and relocator, the filter is a bitch to get to and the muppet who last put one on did it up stupid tight, it took about 30 minutes or more to get off, I ended up needing a hand from a mate to hold a worklight while I punched a screwdriver through it all the while trying not to hit the positive terminal on the alternator, PITA but its done now with only minimal blood loss.

You are what you eat MrC

They are the Yellow speed ones mate. On a lighter note: I did a load test on my battery today, it seems if I go swimming for two hours and leave the lights on the battery goes flat, all in all the test proceeded as I you would have expected.

Thanks guys. If you need your hair done matty I could use some Wiss snips for the cut and a oxy torch for the dry if you are in the neighbourhood. Minor update: Yesterday I flushed the cooling system and added distilled water and coolant, also cleaned the MAF sensor, not really exciting but its a start. I am getting some massive tyres (205/45 16, either Kumho KU36 or Federal EVO) for it on Tuesday and I have been looking at some new coil overs from MX5 Mania that fit my budget but they are not back till the 13 of Jan. The oils will get done on Wednesday and hopefully flush out the brake and clutch fluid. I have been interwebbing the MX5 motorsport nets and forum inters working out what bars and bracing is needed, i.e. actually does something, but that is proving confusing due to the amount of contradiction out there. I may need to pick Chris's brain and go out to watch some MX5's racing around and have a look at what the guys are using, or not using. Its good to have a toy again. I must remember to keep it to the budget though, LOL....... Life is good.

I have finally found a car that I can play with on the weekends. A 1999 NB MX5. I was after something that I can have some fun with at the track but still drive around to the shops or get a burger at Austinmer beach, it needed to be a light, 4 cyl, manual and RWD, plenty of aftermarket support and parts, finally after looking at 1 bazillion different brands and models I decided on the Mazda. I also wanted a car that wouldn't draw to much FnF style attention on the street so the majority of the other makes and models didn't float my boat It is as stock as a rock at this stage apart from some crap 16" rims which will be replaced at some stage. I will update this thread as I proceed with the modifications I do. At this stage there is no problems at all with the car so my first step is to do a service of all oils and fluids to start fresh. I went to PEPS auto this morning and got a basic service kit to start the ball rolling, it had some NULON fuel system cleaner when I filled it up last night so I will not install a new fuel filter till that has gone through the tank. I will post a list now what I want for the thing in no particular order, there will be certain things that I feel that will need to be done prior to throwing it around in anger but I feel that in around 6 months it should see its first attempt at a light super sprint. Service it Better tyres Good brake pads Shocks and springs Oil cooler and filter relocate Roll bar Sway bar Maybe some bracing LSD And then Exhaust Maybe new CAI Maybe advance the timing a bit And then Hard top Rims I may also look around for another 1.8 motor to freshen up but this may or may not eventuate, though from past experience having a spare stocker laying around may be prudent. Day 1 Wash, polish, glaze, wax Spark plugs Air filter The beastie and some stuff to do >>>

SOLD

$10,250

$10500 Mobile 0400 005 960

I will also consider a 93 to 95 MX5 1.8 Clubman as part trade.

Jagermeister although quite yummy is not good pre-work out. Not a strength problem, quite the opposite really, it was more of a balance one. I nearly put the BB through the Ford which shares the garage with my home gym, as I am trying to sell the Ford I though it prudent to cut my session there. I guess the lesson here is to replace the rack with a cage. Time for some more food and Jager. Merry Xmas

Car has new shocks and lowered springs, also has Whiteline sway bars fitted. Transmission had major service in July 13. Serviced every 5000k. The car has recently had fuel filter, coolant, oil filter, air filter, diff oil, engine oil and spark plugs replaced. The intake system has the larger Territory intake pipe and a Typhoon CAI was fitted as well as the lower CAI installed. New 2.5" rear section of the exhaust was installed in July for no other reason than to make it sound better. Bridgestone tyres still have 90% tread. Rego till May 2014. May swap for CLEAN AND STANDARD 1998 onwards model MX5 with any cash adjustments my way.

Excellent condition 108600 K's Auto. Well maintained. $11000 ono Located in Sydney.

Standard gearboxes are fine if you run normal street rubber or drive like miss daisy, but when you throw on some Drag Radials or Semis when they are at temp and use that over 400kw in anger things change in my opinion. Well, this is from my experience of 2 very sick gearboxes and others I have known with some big powahs that get used in anger that is. Some guy on here has a shop that hardens the cogs with some chemical or magical dust or something, might be worth looking into that if you plan on using the powahs in anger. Piggaz is looking into a new box, might pay to see what he has to say as he does a lot of research on his car parts and he doesn't baby the thing. Got to love big torque.

The liquid chalk that I made up a while ago has worked extremely well. One block of chalk and 385ml of isopropyl alcohol made up 2 x 200ml bottles, total cost was around $15, $5 for the chalk and $10 for the alcohol. Same stuff sells for $20 to $30 for around 50ml on fleabay. Crushed the chalk to dust by hand in a large zip lock bag, added the alco and mixed it by mashing it up in the bag. To fill the bottles I cut the corner off one side of the bag and squeezed it into the bottle (got this by watching my missus ice a cake). If your gym hates on chalk (and there is no alternative) then this could save you some bucks. I actually put this on first up when I get to the gym, I put it on and grab the bar and it leaves a nice layer of chalk on the bar to start with, I only need to use dry chalk every so often then as it seems to stick better to my hands, probably the alco initially imbedding it into the pores of my hands.

This tread should be called: "My car is awesome and no one will race me, well on the street anyway due to me not going to the track or strip where people will race me and beat me due to my car not being as awesome as I think it is or my driving skills have a lot to be desired" But where is the fun or common sense in that? If you want to race be a man and go do some real motorsport and post your times, or stay a kid, the choice is yours.

After stalling on nearly everything I have decided to cut away the Strong Lifts 5 x 5, doing cardio/cross fit 3 or 4 times a week (mandatory at work) and trying to squat 3 times a week drained me, my age (48) is my excuse and I'm sticking to it, LOL. I have now gone back to my old routine with some minor changes. All major exercises have 4 to 5 warm up sets from 10 down to 2 reps before working weight. Current weights in kg follow sets and reps ( I have deloaded about 10%) Sessions are all straight after work. Critique at your leisure. Monday Bench 5 x 5 107.5 Inc DB 4 X 10 35 Dips 3 x 10 20 X overs 3 x 10 27.5 Tuesday Clean 5 x 3 82.5 Shoulder Press 5 x 10 47.5 Superset of: DB curls 3 x 15 12.5 Rope Ext 3 x 15 50 Wednesday off Thursday Dead 5 x 5 125 (Rubbish but working up) Over Grasp Heaves 4 x Max BW Arched Close Grip Heaves 4 x Max (I use the handle off the seated row over the ladder section of the heave beam) Lat pull down 4 x 10 50 (used for the stretch) 1 Arm Row 4 x 10 35 Friday Squat 5 x 5 107.5 (Rubbish but working up) BB Lunge 3 x 10 40 SLDL 3 X 10 60 Superset of: Ezy Curl 3 x 15 25 (without bar weight) Skull Crushers 3 x 15 32.5 Saturday and Sunday consists of family stuff, cake, booze and enjoy life to the fullest. My goal is to up my weights and see how I go. All exercises are full range of motion (ATG and all that other correct form stuff, I am overly strict on this due to previous injuries, from me being a stupid dick). One off the guys at work who does powerlifting has tried to get me on the 5 3 1 routine but it has to much math and shit, all I do on mine is up it 2.5 kg if I get all sets and reps. If I stall again I will just deload on that exercise or do 5 x 3 for the main lifts and see how it goes.

I think the 3 kids would be upset with having to have their legs and heads removed to allow fitment, plus I'm off fuel injection and turbo's and stuff. I want a car with the biggest motor that I can fit in and what I can tune with a small screw driver and timing light. Getting back to my roots if you know what I mean, read: old school bogan.....

LOL On the serious side though, I am looking at something like this with a slush box, I almost got a old WB Statesman a couple of weeks ago, it was a right mess but the body was sound, I tried to low ball, waited to long and missed out. I'm really frustrated, trying to find something to build is proving to be extremely problematic. I want something with some punch and grumble but very low maintenance, hence lazy big ci 8 with auto, but finding something to suit is breaking my balls. Initial purchase is the problem, I only have a small budget for the initial outlay (the minister of war and finances is fairly strict on this), my plan is to buy the car then strip and rebuild it, then when I am in the good books and funds allow get some bits to make it go (all parts shipped to work and then hidden under a blanket in the garage of course). My plan is to have a regoed, loud, low, and angry cruiser that will fit me, the minister and 3 psychotic teenagers in(and of course go fast in a straight line). The way I'm going though the kids will have already left home before I get something in the garage to start on. But while there is life there is hope.....

Pfft, 6 ltr, that's to small, 9.4 litres is where its at. > http://www.proformanceunlimited.com/specs/572_750.html And for well under 25k dropped at your door.

Last time I weighed it it was 1425 or 1525 with 1/4ish tank of 98 from memory, add 80kg at track weight for me.. I think maybe the shift points and or traction at launch could be a issue. It use to do 11.08 at 132mph @ 380 killerwasps, with a extra 70 killerwasps you should have that high 10. Did you give the new tyres a big cooking, I would bag it up for a good 5 seconds in second revving it at about 5500, I think 12 psi in the M/T DR gave me my best 60' of 1.655. I would launch it at 4250, any less and it would bog down and any more and it would bag the tyres, I would launch at the low psi setting and as soon as I hit third I would hit the remote for the EBC and go to high psi, this combination seemed to work the best in regards to overpowering the tyres in first and second gear. I did have a few go's at launching in second but didn't have much luck over the 60'. Every shift was at 6500. Anyway practice makes perfect, and it is fun trying to find the best combination of things you got to do.