The Bogan

Heater cores are so 2010, just remove the carpet and sound deadening and you get awesome warmth flowing up from the floor. I may be in for the whole run if the stars and family align. Love the putty. Love long cruises. Just be aware of the other cars, trucks, and bikes.

I call shinanigans. Ive had 11ty hundred wheel alignments on all sorts of wheel and tyre combinations and have never had that issue. First thing they usually do is lock the steering wheel in the straight ahead position before they start aligning or mucking around with the arms and stuff. Unless they just played with the suspension and didnt do a alignment, which would be 10 dodgy things.. Agian, I call shinanigans.

Mine also sits about about 5-10mm difference. I was rather paranoid about it, I've been told most 33s do it.

The "NEW OLD" model fixed this problem, the slots stop before the edge by around 5mm, on the front anyway, and I never heard of anyone having problems with the rears.

Assumptions are great. Shut it down, shut it, shut it, shut it down.

I've learnt from work not to argue foolishly things with fools as they will beat you with experience.

Please reread my post, did I name you as the idiot, I think not, I was just stating that posting information that may or may not be true can still be interpeted as slander. And thank you for reminding me where I live, I'm sure that slander is fine in SA, but in the end I will STFU as you requested as you must have a lot more knowledge on the law than me. Happy days.

I've seen a lot of 25,s at trackdays that go well on street tyres without excessive wheel spin, its all of the mechanical skills plus being able to read the road and drive to the conditions. Each to their own I suppose.

What'd to stop done idiot from posting someone's rego details on here because they don't like them or don't know the road rules. I had a alteration with done muppet a while ago who tried to change lanes on me, I hit the horn and he hit the roof, he was under the impression that because he wanted to change lanes and I was in his way I should move, I'm quite happy to let people in when I have more warning than a car turning into the lane I am currently occupying. He could post that I cut him of and post my rego details for all to see. If you have been done hard by go to the cops, don't cry and post rego details on a forum as I see it will do no good. Do you want your rego details posted up about alleged activities that may or may not have happened.

I've tried starting on low boost then going to high midway through third but it didn't really help, I found modulation of the throttle and clutch the best so far, the hardest bit is the launch, trying to find the sweet spot between wheelspin and bogging down. Every day is different I've found, between launch RPM,air temp, track temp, tyre pressure and size of burnout. What worked last week generally won't work the next week. It is frustrating but fun at the same time.

I wish i could just mash the pedal at the drags mate, the boat even on MT drag radials will bag it up, I'm in a state of confusion on trying to get my first half of the strip times down, little by little they are getting better, all I need now is to lose 0.1 of a second and I might get a 10.999. Hopefully anyway. Although I do believe I'm nearing the end of the usefulness of my track style suspension when it come to drags.

All sold.

My birds alfa will spin the wheels if you mash the pedals, its all about good throttle control. I can launch fairly hard and with good throttle and clutch control get the power to the ground with minimal wheel spin, my tyres are 255, power is a tad over 500 hp. Do some driver training days and/ or track days and learn how to drive a car with a hi power motor. Putting down the power is a skill that needs to be learnt. Otherwise old mate in his 100 hp auto lancer will smoke you. I'm not taking the piss here, I've talked to people who claim their car will spin the wheels in the first three gears, why, because they just drop the clutch and mash the pedal. With great power comes great responsibility.

Softer front and softer rear springs with some correct shocks, you need the front to lift and the rear to squat and hold there, this will transfer the weight over the rear wheels. You will also need to run a small amount of positive camber, mine runs 0.5 positive rear at the drags which seems to work well for my rubbish suspension set up..(its not rubbish for the track, its rubbish for the strip) That is if you want straight line only performance, other wise get some good tyres and work the throttle, not mash it. 0.5 to 0.0 neg camber rear will help but will not be so good in the twisties. Can your ECU be tuned for boost/road speed. Thread needs more 3ltr.

Still here, surely someone needs a good harness for a cheap price.

Quick release and omp style wheel sold. Only the deep dish suede wheel left.

What I do and have never had a issue: 1.Turn on ignition and set the heater to max temp, do not start car 2.Remove radiator cap then remove lower bung from radiator draining all coolant 3.Turn off ignition 4.Replace lower bung on radiator 5.Fill radiator and overflow tank with fresh coolant 6.leaving the radiator cap off start the car ensuring the heater is still set at max temp (this stage removes any air trapped in the system) 7.Run engine topping up as needed until the coolant is hot (I wait for about 5 min) 8.Let the car cool then top up coolant and replace the radiator cap 9.Run up the car and go for a drive to get the car up to working temp 10.Let car cool and recheck coolant level (I push down on the top left of the radiator as it holds some air) Warning: A hot radiator will be under pressure and you will end up getting burnt if you attempt to open it when its hot. Sounds like common sense but Ive seen people open up a hot radiator and they usually end up with massive burns.

GSL RallySport

Sounds good too. I imagine it would sound like war on full song.

Buy another car thats been built, it will be cheaper.

NCOP11 Section LS Suspension and Steering V2 01Jan2011 [PDF: 1319 KB] 4.2.3 Clearance No part of the wheel must touch any part of the body, chassis, steering, braking system or suspension under any operating condition. To check this, the vehicle must be fully laden and capable of negotiating raised obstacles that would normally be encountered whilst driving such as speed humps and driveway entries. This test should be conducted from lock to lock without any part of the rim or tyre contacting any other part of the vehicle. Test weight for passengers is 68kg plus 15kg per person for luggage where luggage space is provided. Section LS Tyres, Rims, Suspension and Steering Version 2.0 – 1 January 2011 Page 21/LS85 The wheels must be contained within the bodywork , or mudguards (including flares) when the wheels are in the straight ahead position. Steering and/or suspension stops must not be modified to provide clearance for wheels.

LOL Your link was the one I posted up before, YOUR link states. The wheels must be contained within the bodywork, or mudguards (including flares) when the wheels are in the straight ahead position.

Build a old modern classic, new bikes are so common, if your not going to race it that is, if not be the coolest dude at the milkbar will a old slabside/katana/CB1100RR/Ducati 900 MHR/Kwaka Z My 2 Favs of all time, when my old 86 GSXR1100 was parked up no one would be looking at anything else. Not mine but the same. The Honda, well I didnt have the coin.

Well then how about a link to said docs, as during my engineering process this came up as well, all the information I have come up with states that you cannot have wheels or tyres outside the body line, this is also what my engineer said, but if you have some new relevant information that can be backed up by a legal document that the local (i.e NSW RTA for example) will use for compliance then I shall be proven wrong. Until then just saying Im wrong holds no weight.

Sorry but no. The wheels must be contained within the bodywork, or mudguards (including flares) when the wheels are in the straight ahead position. http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/pdf/NCOP11_Section_LS_Tyres_Suspension_Steering_V2_1Jan_2011%20v3.pdf http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/vsb_ncop.aspx And the code is still in draft and live so it does not come into play legaly, your state authority guidelines are the ones you must comply with. Its a good read though.