The Bogan

Selling my 1995 R33 GTST, 25/30, 500HP, 380KWATW (safe 98 tune) Fully engineered and registered till SEPT 2013 for NSW Motor built by UNIGROUP ENGINEERING using best parts available Gearbox built and modified by AWARD Nismo twin plate coppermix clutch Nismo dash R33 GTR rear end R33 GTR rims, Hankook RS3 tyres R34 GTR front seats Bonds half cage White Line sway bars Adjustable camber arms Bilstien shocks Lots of stuff done, you need to have a look. From some Skyline gigs vvvvv Best R33 Modified winner at the Shannons Skyline Nationals 2012 Wakefield Class B winner at the Shannons Skyline Nationals 2012 Import Monster SAU NATS Modified 2WD Class, quickest 800mtr Import Monster SAU NATS Modified 2WD Class, Highest speed 800mtr (245kph) Selling as the kids are costing me a fortune in dental and schooling and this toy needs to go. $16,000 ( Ive put maybe 50K into this thing) Whole car only, Im not parting it out so dont ask, and no holdsies. If you are looking for a car that can lap Wakefield, run a low 11 sec quater and drive to Queensland for for a cruise then this may be what you are after.

138 grey motor has more tourqe than a 12A

Drop a fresh GM V8 in, will be lighter and use less fuel than a boosted RB. RBs are pretty old technology now, the newer GM motors put out good torque right from the bottom, need minimal modifications to get decent power, and are reliable. Most likely cheaper to.

rear seat?

As you need to pull most of the dash out to fit it I would get it inspected and cleaned at least by a reputable radiator joint. Or buy new. My good condition second hand one lasted 12 months before dropping coolant in the passenger foot well. Remember that even though it may look good on the outside the insides may be on their way out, the second hand ones are getting pretty old now. The extra money spent on new will be worth it if you need to replace a second hand one in 12 months. My 2 cents

Heater cores are so 2010, just remove the carpet and sound deadening and you get awesome warmth flowing up from the floor. I may be in for the whole run if the stars and family align. Love the putty. Love long cruises. Just be aware of the other cars, trucks, and bikes.

I call shinanigans. Ive had 11ty hundred wheel alignments on all sorts of wheel and tyre combinations and have never had that issue. First thing they usually do is lock the steering wheel in the straight ahead position before they start aligning or mucking around with the arms and stuff. Unless they just played with the suspension and didnt do a alignment, which would be 10 dodgy things.. Agian, I call shinanigans.

Mine also sits about about 5-10mm difference. I was rather paranoid about it, I've been told most 33s do it.

The "NEW OLD" model fixed this problem, the slots stop before the edge by around 5mm, on the front anyway, and I never heard of anyone having problems with the rears.

Assumptions are great. Shut it down, shut it, shut it, shut it down.

I've learnt from work not to argue foolishly things with fools as they will beat you with experience.

Please reread my post, did I name you as the idiot, I think not, I was just stating that posting information that may or may not be true can still be interpeted as slander. And thank you for reminding me where I live, I'm sure that slander is fine in SA, but in the end I will STFU as you requested as you must have a lot more knowledge on the law than me. Happy days.

I've seen a lot of 25,s at trackdays that go well on street tyres without excessive wheel spin, its all of the mechanical skills plus being able to read the road and drive to the conditions. Each to their own I suppose.

What'd to stop done idiot from posting someone's rego details on here because they don't like them or don't know the road rules. I had a alteration with done muppet a while ago who tried to change lanes on me, I hit the horn and he hit the roof, he was under the impression that because he wanted to change lanes and I was in his way I should move, I'm quite happy to let people in when I have more warning than a car turning into the lane I am currently occupying. He could post that I cut him of and post my rego details for all to see. If you have been done hard by go to the cops, don't cry and post rego details on a forum as I see it will do no good. Do you want your rego details posted up about alleged activities that may or may not have happened.

I've tried starting on low boost then going to high midway through third but it didn't really help, I found modulation of the throttle and clutch the best so far, the hardest bit is the launch, trying to find the sweet spot between wheelspin and bogging down. Every day is different I've found, between launch RPM,air temp, track temp, tyre pressure and size of burnout. What worked last week generally won't work the next week. It is frustrating but fun at the same time.

I wish i could just mash the pedal at the drags mate, the boat even on MT drag radials will bag it up, I'm in a state of confusion on trying to get my first half of the strip times down, little by little they are getting better, all I need now is to lose 0.1 of a second and I might get a 10.999. Hopefully anyway. Although I do believe I'm nearing the end of the usefulness of my track style suspension when it come to drags.

All sold.

My birds alfa will spin the wheels if you mash the pedals, its all about good throttle control. I can launch fairly hard and with good throttle and clutch control get the power to the ground with minimal wheel spin, my tyres are 255, power is a tad over 500 hp. Do some driver training days and/ or track days and learn how to drive a car with a hi power motor. Putting down the power is a skill that needs to be learnt. Otherwise old mate in his 100 hp auto lancer will smoke you. I'm not taking the piss here, I've talked to people who claim their car will spin the wheels in the first three gears, why, because they just drop the clutch and mash the pedal. With great power comes great responsibility.

Softer front and softer rear springs with some correct shocks, you need the front to lift and the rear to squat and hold there, this will transfer the weight over the rear wheels. You will also need to run a small amount of positive camber, mine runs 0.5 positive rear at the drags which seems to work well for my rubbish suspension set up..(its not rubbish for the track, its rubbish for the strip) That is if you want straight line only performance, other wise get some good tyres and work the throttle, not mash it. 0.5 to 0.0 neg camber rear will help but will not be so good in the twisties. Can your ECU be tuned for boost/road speed. Thread needs more 3ltr.

Still here, surely someone needs a good harness for a cheap price.

Quick release and omp style wheel sold. Only the deep dish suede wheel left.

What I do and have never had a issue: 1.Turn on ignition and set the heater to max temp, do not start car 2.Remove radiator cap then remove lower bung from radiator draining all coolant 3.Turn off ignition 4.Replace lower bung on radiator 5.Fill radiator and overflow tank with fresh coolant 6.leaving the radiator cap off start the car ensuring the heater is still set at max temp (this stage removes any air trapped in the system) 7.Run engine topping up as needed until the coolant is hot (I wait for about 5 min) 8.Let the car cool then top up coolant and replace the radiator cap 9.Run up the car and go for a drive to get the car up to working temp 10.Let car cool and recheck coolant level (I push down on the top left of the radiator as it holds some air) Warning: A hot radiator will be under pressure and you will end up getting burnt if you attempt to open it when its hot. Sounds like common sense but Ive seen people open up a hot radiator and they usually end up with massive burns.

GSL RallySport

Sounds good too. I imagine it would sound like war on full song.

Buy another car thats been built, it will be cheaper.