The Bogan

Will there be beer ?

Hankook Ventus RS3

Dont forget to put the foam in....

+ 1 NEO head VCT YO

3 seconds from mine

Got some from Phatlavish

Use a heat gun and form the plastic as much as you can, if you remove the plastic you will get heaps of crap finding its way into the front door area near the door hinge, also where the wiring loom enters the firewall, you may get some water coming into the cab. The inner guard also helps with the aero inside the wheel well, its there for a reason, moulding it is your best option.

As long as I can have the Celica Terry

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/nissan-throttle-body-second-hand-genuine-nissan-vh45-q45-90mm-p-860.html Bolts straight on, better than cheap aftermarket ones that leak like seives.Im using one on mine.

Remove dash and pull globe for warning light. And, S1R33RWDFTWBBQ

Im looking for standard shocks for the rear of a R33 GTST. I need a spare set of rears for drag days, just shocks are ok as I plan to raise the rear with + 10mm from standard King springs. They must not be leaky. Cosmeticaly I couldnt care less. Thanks, Mark

Thanks mate, I love the pics.

LOL, yeah it was fun up until it got traction and started rubbing, Ive been googling standard height King springs, Ive sent them a email, we will see how it works out

Stupid cars, first run got a 11.9, was really happy as I sort of took it easy, second run I did a good burnout then launched hard, it took off like a rocket, hit second gear and it really hooked up, BUT, with all the squat the tyres rubbed on the guards and made a heap of noise so I backed off a bit then hit it again but they scrubed again so I backed off. Third run was more scrubbing so I dropped my showbags and went home. Its time to either jam a jack and a bit of wood in the wheel well to pump out the guards or get some taller springs, Im going for the jack method I think, free and easy, I just hope I can push them out about 15mm. The tyres are fine with only small scrub marks on them, hopefully it will be done for next Wensday night.

Ive just removed the front floor mats, the car is now preped for racing. Apart from fitting the M/T Street ET tyres on the back that is... All thats left to do is get there and buy a bag of donuts.

Im only going to the drags for the donuts fatboy.jpeg

Ch 74

Im goimg to try and bump from work at 1630.

Good condition $50.00 Pick up only Sydney, near Liverpool.

Im in With sticky hoops of goodness I shall attempt to get my launching right and go for gold. It would be a pity to get booted for a 11.99, Im going to give them a good cooking first up and see how it goes, I might even use first gear again to start. Fingers crossed nothing breaks.

Thanks for the tyres mate, I'll put them to good use, and hopefully get booted on my 2nd run on Wednesday

http://www.earls.com.au/files/2011earlscatalog.pdf 251010ERL -10 Reinforced Viton® with Aluminum Support 150 PSI Max .5 PSI to seal, This is the one I use. There is a -12 available but its a bit more expensive > 253012ERL -12

Because the boat has been good of late I got it a present, plus I need to do better than a 12...... Next Wensday, HEY HO LETS GO

I have no clue on the foam, I myself would get rid of it and baffle it, as for the drains/vents, plumb the head drain into the Turbo oil drain and get a EARLS one way valve for the can drain. The left hand of the sump is a PITA as the only spot to put a fitting on the sump is to low and oil will push its way up. To test it remove the line from where it connects to the can, then undo one of the breathers and block the others, then blow into the breather, if oil comes out of the line from the sump (like mine did) then you either need to move it or put in a oneway valve. Where do you live, if its in Sydney I could show you what I mean if my description of the proccess isnt making sense.

Where are the returns to the sump located, mine were to low and oil was being pushed up them, after fitting a one way valve on the catch can return and moving another to a tee on the turbo oil return all is good. And returning your oil to the sump is fine, the only reason people think its not is because they see the oil that comes out of a non return can, in a non return system the catch can will fill with oil and moisture and also during the cooling proccess it absorbs moisture giving it the milky apperance, BUT, with the return to sump the moisture will be cooked off by the oil getting hot. Its like the condensation forming inside of a car when you are sitting in it, the insine becomes warmer than the outside thus creating condensation, when you turn on your demister it evaporates. There is a stiky thread with oil control in the Forced Induction section.