The Bogan

To tell you the truth I have removed the heat shield, worked fine but was to shiny for my black engine bay, Im looking at getting one of the benies in the link from Revolution Race Gear, the quality is 100% better than the one I got from "torque in a shoebox", I spoke to them about my old one falling apart due to it not being engineered correctly, the R R G ones are constructed to take high heat, they make them for race cars. http://www.revolutionracegear.com.au/index.php?PCID=10314&PSO=245&PSID=3389010144&PSV=Primary&CDO= As for fitting, I used the 2 rear power steering bracket bolts which held it fine.

Make a template with some cardboard and then get it made at you local sheet metal workers, shouldnt cost more than $50 for a nice alluminium one, then paint it.

What material is the manifold mate ?

Yes too, thowing your tune out, and vac lines not right, Ive got one on my motor, only problems I had was the injectors didnt seat properly, mine is fixed and loves 25lb now.

Is this so even if the drain goes to the hot side of the sump, this one way valve is something I havent looked at, is it a EARLS or SPEED FLOW product ? And where do I get one ?

Yes

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/314551-great-deals-on-radiators/ FENIX radiators is a SAU NSW sponser http://fenixautopart.com/contacts.asp?selectclassid=006001

SSCC has a great tag line "Ban low performance drivers NOT high performance cars"

Mine has 25 covers with another 2 extra baffled fittings installed at the rear, like a 26 cover, didn't fix my problems though, the oil air separator above the motor may be doing the hard work maybe ?

WORRY, Its broken my brain.......not hard really, but you know, meh

Its tee,d into the where the oil pressure (edit)sensor goes, from the oil pressure gauge a line takes it to a tee, one feed from that tee goes to the head feed and the other to the VCT.

Mine is fine at the drags, fine NOW at Easter Creek (lots of left handers) but with a 1.0 mm restrictor it still over flowed the can at Wakefield ( lots of right handers), Ive been told that a oil to air seperator prior to a catch can fixes the problem, if mine is still spewing oil I will fit a oil to air seperator as I cannot go below 0.8 mm as under 0.8mm blockages scare me, either that or go to a N1 pump and start playing with restrictor sizes again. After 3 warm up laps it only took 3 or four hot laps till oil overflow, even with a bloody return line from the can to the sump. Mine is a 25/30 which I dont rev over 7300 (I Shift) so a N1 would have been fine but I went for the best I could get (apart from a dry sump) and it has bitten me on the arse, my motor has Fuc all blow by too. Oil is 10W 40. I never had a issue when it was a stock RB25.

Pics of my head feed, the restrictors in the head were blocked and the feed is taped into the oil galleries of the head. Pics of the regulator for the oil pump which got the pressure down.

My TOMEI pump was running around 130 psi on the lowest setting, installed a regulator which got it down to 90 at 6000rpm, kept spewing oil though, its got head drains and the catch can returns to the sump, internal drains have been drilled and chamfered, at this stage the VCT has a 0.6mm restrictor and the head is now feed with a 0.8mm restrictor which has been taped into the oil galleries, this makes changing the restricters a 5 minute job. 1 x 1.5 for the head, oil 1 x 1.0, oil Changed head restrictor to 0.8mm Still haven't tried out the smaller restrictor as yet. Wakefield in March will be the next time the car is out. This oil surge issue has done our heads in. Goodluck.

A NA to Turbo swap? FFS, better to keep NA stock then sell it when you get you blacks, then buy a car that was made to have a turbo, otherwise you will spend a shit tin of money in upgrading everything, and then maybe you will not be able to get it registered. Remember that to do this and keep it legal the cost and engineering behind it will be a major PITA. In the end do what you want, if you have money to waste then go for it.

You guys threw away about 10 old troop pushies when I was at 17, I got a coulple out of the metal bin and made up one good one, Go down to PLT TP and have a look there, I left a old bike there when I left but that was a year ago now. If your not shopping ARMY your paying too much !

When the clutch in the clutch fan is broken it locks on and the engine is still being cooled, though you do lose about 5 hp, when a thermo fan breaks a wire,fuse,electic motor, ect, so does you motor. Simple really.

Do the rims have gaps for the studs that protrude from the spacers, not all rims will accept hud centric spacers, the rim may not be seated on the hub, remove a wheel and see if the studs are hitting the rear face of the wheel. If they are hitting dont use them, your wheels can become lose and snap the studs, this will make your wheel fall off, this is bad !!!!! It may be time to get some correct offset rims.

If I was you I wouldnt waste money on "doing up" a NA Skyline, keep it stock and use the money saved on parts for the 180. It will not be cost effective to upgrade the brakes, suspension, motor and all the other bits and peices for the NA, they are too heavy for the small amount of power they make. Why have a car that looks quick but wouldnt pull the skin of custard, when you use the money to build a wicked quick 180.

Sell NA POS NA Skyline, buy MX 5. Your stock MX5 will smoke most stockish GTSTs, Chubbs runs a 1:13 around wakefield in a 85ish kw MX5, I was 1:11 but in a 350ish kw GTST. A MX5 is the best handling bang for your buck car money can buy. With some good suspension, brakes and tyres it is budget performance at its best. Wish I had got one instead of the boat.

Ive got one in Sydney you can have for free

Full engineered cars have just gone up in price I would say, SWEEEET. Not that I would sell my boat.

http://www.carmate.com.au/

Go to a drag strip and race him for slips

Ford Corsair UA - AustraliaFord Corsair UA Ford Corsair (UA) GL sedanManufacturerFord AustraliaProduction1989–1992 (Built by Nissan Australia)AssemblyClayton, AustraliaSuccessorFord TelstarBody style4-door sedan 5-door hatchbackLayoutFF layoutEngine1974 cc I-4 2389 cc I-4RelatedNissan PintaraBetween 1989 and 1992, the Ford Corsair name was used by Ford Australia for a badge engineering version of the Nissan Pintara (known in development as 'Project Matilda'), under a model-sharing scheme known as the Button Plan. It was offered as a 4-door sedan and as a 5-door hatchback, in GL and Ghia trim levels with 2.0L (CA20E) and and 2.4L (KA24E) four cylinder engines. The Corsair was intended to replace the Mazda 626-based Ford Telstar, which was imported from Japan. The two were sold side-by-side in the Australian Ford range, with the Telstar only available as the high-performance TX5 hatchback. When Nissan closed its Australian plant in 1992, the Corsair was discontinued and the imported Telstar once again became Ford's main offering in the medium size segment, until being replaced by the Mondeo in 1995.<BR style="CLEAR: both">