The Bogan

Double post. So After every power mod you should check to see if your fuel is keeping up with demand, otherwise budget in a new motor. Also fill in some pers info with at least location so we know where your from. Enjoy.

Full service i.e every oil and fluid (brake fluid, engine oil, gearbox oil/fluid, diff oil, radiator fluid, power steering fluid), spark plugs, better brake pads, boost tee to run 11psi, dyno run to see if your fuel is keeping up, and, um, that should be close to your budget. Next thing would become familiar with the search button. Drive safe Shop Smart, Shop S Mart

LOL, and what was the question again ? You just wrote out a shopping list and stated something about some unanswered question which wasn't asked anyway.

I should start a thread about my VCT feed and super dooper remotely adjustable over engineered side feed restricter that takes 15 minutes to change the restrictor size in the RB30 section, oh wait, its all in there all I need to do is SEARCH, I may not find it straight away, but Im sure if I put my time in Ill find it. I wasnt reinventing the wheel you know, its all been done before.. Whats your engineering dilemma, I spent days reading through all that info myself to get ideas when I got my motor built. Sarcasm sits well with me. On topic, go to builder and say I want ???kw or a reliable motor that will survive some abuse at track/drags, then ask another, see what they say, make a informed desicion about what you want, what you have researched and then post up saying, "hey guys, whats this set up look like" From my experience your post sounds like "tell me stuff because ICNBFed searching", It took me a couple of weekends to read the 30 thread, well worth it IMO. On here all you will get is a heap of points of view with about 10% being usefull, sorry but Im one of the 90% of IDIOTS.

Make sure you ask your engineer if he will sign off on those seats, they are a safety item and must meet ADR rules. A engineer might not to risk his licence for a non compliant pair of seats, not trying to rain on your parade but when I had my car engineered the guy was adamant that the seats were ADR compliant. Also if the seats are not ADR and you crash and get hurt your insurance will not pay up if they can prove the seats were in anyway part of the cause, which they will because they will claim your seats were a non compliant modification on a safety item. This is for a road registerer car, if its track only use whatever you want as long as it passes the scrutiny. Look up the modification rules on the RTA web site and speak to your engineer before you spend any of your hard earned cash. This is my advice anyway, in the end do what you want, it won't be me getting defected.

Pics for sure.

I'm at bloody work, Aaaaaarrrrrrrrgggggggg

I stand corrected, I still like more side wall though, 93mm for the 265/35 or 106mm for the 265/40, I would go the 40 as a minimum. As for 235/35 at 82mm or 235/40 at 94 mm, for the street that extra 12mm comes in handy But yes, IM WRONG, sorry for causing any missinformation.

Blits in Brisbane

Put in a couple of extra dollars and get R34 GTR Seats, ADR (legal) and they are a sweet seat, no point in spending $1500 on seats that you have to remove if you get defected for them, for around $2000 you can get genuine Nissan R34 GTR seats that will bolt straight in. Do the $1500 seats have rails included, they will cost at least $500 for a decent set at least. Shop smart, shop S-mart

Must meet ADR rules, AFAIK no guards and only 1 supplier in Aus meets ADR for Fibreglass bonnets. A engineer may be able to pass them, maybe.

Its called a sidewall, smart people get tyres to suit the driving conditions, they look good for the street where pot holes and rough roads will make having lower profile tyres a PITA, me, I wont go any lower than 40 series even on a 265 for the street or the track. currently running 245/45 17 on the street myself and they are awesome on the road and good enough to do 12.2 at the drags. Whilst I do admit low profile tyres can look good they are a PITA unless you always drive on fresh smooth blacktop, or if you dont mind the harsh ride and damaged rims.

Have a look in the suspension area for a thread by sydneykid, lots of good info on all styles of set ups for performance and handling.

Your spark plugs will rust.

F ark how it looks, its a skyline not a lambo, how does it handle, and is it street friendly, getting the ride height correct for handling will not only make your car more fun to drive your exhaust won't be left on a speed hump and you can enter a driveway without ripping your front bar off. Measure from center of your rim to the guard, should be around this. Front 355 Rear 345 I'm not claiming to be a expert, far from it, its just I've spent a lot of time researching this for my car, with a geometricaly correct ride height my car is a lot better now that I've lifted it up a bit so the suspension can work correctly.

Elec fans save about 5hp, Ill wind in a extra 0.1lb of boost and get it back. the constant draw also makes the altenator work harder, double edged sword IMO.

Dates and venues please, If its in Syney I would love to come and say hi and see her in the flesh during her first shake down. I even have the tyre pressure guage you gave me, which sir both it and me are at your disposal.

Balanced motor, Tomei pump, and Ross balancer, mine is limited to 7500 but I shift at 7200, the only problems Ive had was restricting the oil to the head, thats fixed now and Im loving the car, the down low power from the 30 makes up for the lack of high end revs I feel. I am also running a TO4Z and making 355, 25/30, I must admit that Ive only had I day at the creek so far but it was run in for 400Ks then went to the drags on the SAU drag day which seen it have about 30 runs. From what I understand you dont want to rev the 30 past 7500 if you want it to last. Im loving the 30 Thoughts...

Oh yes

I've been told by my tuner that for under 300 killerwasps the stock setup is the best for response, longer runners or something, I'm now running a China spec plenum and China spec throttlebody, face was machined and cleaned out the ports, done and dusted, new China spec gear is not like the old stuff.

I've been told by my tuner that for under 300 killerwasps the stock setup is the best for response, longer runners or something, I'm now running a China spec plenum and China spec throttlebody, face was machined and cleaned out the ports, done and dusted, new China spec gear is not like the old stuff.

http://www.blitsbodykits.com.au/nissan.html they have a heap of styles and can do custom work. And they are ADR compliant, I've just got one for my 33 GTST, nice fit.

[quote name=ClutchBurndout-' timestamp='1320561346' post='6097171] get new clutch fan There ya go, fixed. Or get thermos and put up with the hassles and risk that go with them.

Not for FNQ

3 of the 3000 fish I got in 09, its been to long between drinks. Ive got 3 mths long service leave next year though, me thinks its time again. Just got to watch out for the Crocs, almost got eaten trying to get the stupid Grouper back in the water, LOL.