The Bogan

Get your calculator out for the first one http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_109789/article.html http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_111286/article.html http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_108646/article.html I love this site.

The gap should go down as the boost level comes up, to a point. Mine runs best at .8 @ 14lb, use to breakdown a far bit at .11 @ 14lb high rpm. +1 for copper plugs, just change them at every service, cheap/easy and you always have a good plug, dont believe the hype for the plugs that they say last for 100,000k, they are good for the first 5,000 then average from then on. There is a good thread in here about plugs, all about heat range and gap size.

Caltex 98 but want to tune for E85 when there are more places to get it.

First you tube vid was the gays, crap music, also I thought Tupok and fatty smalls was dead. Second one was sweeet.

Location please mate, interested in the seats. Thanks, Mark

Will pay as soon as Im back from Singo, this will be a great night.

Please dont give it a boot full until you have fixed your problems because your next problem may well be a blown motor.

Its not a faulty cap is it ?

Ive been cut off, asked to race, been overtaken by cars doing 80 in a 50 zone and by not old drivers but young guys and girls, look at the road accidents that are happening, its the 25 and under group. But then most young guys are so good at driving they can do dangerous things safely, notice the irony

You may have air in the system, try bleeding it.

My high mount has had the OK from the RTA inspection stations on 3 occasions and the whole car will be enginnered when the new motor goes in, only thing that needs changing is the catch can vent which vents to atmosphere, also if you ceramic coat the I/C it will trap the heat inside and not act as a heat soak, a light coat of paint to the outside is far superior as it will still let the heat excape from the I/C (heat sink), this is also why you paint a plenum and not use a ceramic coating. You are allowed to do lots of mods to your car as long as you follow the details given by the RTA for modifications and if it outside of the guidelines all you need to do is build it properly so you can get it legaly enginnered.

Nice, but I cannot talk for long, cars for sale web sites here I come, just kidding, no Im not, umm, bye.............

Around $50 for 3 cans, I had about 1/2 a can left, just need to coat the plenum now.

Yeah OK Im a idiot, was reading in anouther thread about fuel pumps and it said if it was a GTR it would have a plastic tank, so I ass umed that a GTS-T wouldnt. Thanks man.

http://e-85.com.au/e85-performance-fuel/ $500 is OK, Flex Fuel thingo sounds like its easy to install (not by me of course, I only fix things with hammers) COMPATIBLE FUEL SYSTEM COMPONENTS: Because ethanol contains oxygen, it can form corrosive agents. Any water that enters the system can promote the formation of formic acid. Although this process takes a significant amount of time before damage occurs, the tank, pump, and lines should be either stainless steel or coated with a plastic material that is ethanol-compatible. All natural rubber parts that could be in contact with ethanol must also be replaced with synthetic and other materials. From reading this they suggest a stainless/plastic fuel cell and replace all lines as well as it is corrosive, dont really want the rear of my boat looking like a A9X with a big arse stainless tank hanging low (though the extra volume of fuel would be welcome(suppose I could paint it black ?)), but meh, might ring around some places that fab tanks for a price. More to follow. Mark

If its a streeter I would avoid shinny stuff, Ive painted my cam covers-IC pipes-filter enclosure and catch can with a matte black VHT crinkle type finish paint, looks good and almost stockish, also gave my front mount a coat of flat black for the effect. If you go all shinny its more likely that it could get defected, to the police shinny usually means modified which equals defect.

For 30k I would buy a nice 32 or 33 GTR, a R34 GT with a 26 in it is still only a R34 GT. http://www.carpoint.com.au/all-cars/privat...ds=&__N=834 1216 1246 1247 1252 1282 4294963846 4294963593 396 414 4294932943&SearchAction=N&PriceFrom=396&PriceTo=414&seot=1&__Nne=15&trecs=9&silo=1011 This would be something I would look at for that money, or, http://www.carpoint.com.au/all-cars/privat...ds=&__N=834 1216 1246 1247 1252 1282 4294963846 4294963593 396 414 4294795819&SearchAction=N&PriceFrom=396&PriceTo=414&seot=1&__Nne=15&trecs=16&silo=1011

Totaly agree, too many people on the road who dont know what they are doing, from old buggers like myself who travel at 5 kph below the posted limit (always in the slow lane because Im never in a hurry) to young guys who are so awsome at driving that they drive so far up your arse so they can read your speedo from their car. The testing should be done away from other people as Ive seen first hand other people telling them answers. Also the rules are changing all the time so a bit of re-education is needed anyway. Dont get me started on driver education, how many of us were taught what to do when the car starts to slide or practice evasive action in a car, Drive to Survive courses should be mandatory, its not speed that kills people, its the sudden stop when they hit the pole-tree-wall-other car-person that may have been avoided with some advance driving techniques. On a side note there is a guy at work who supercharged a new SS commonwhore, thing is a animal, BUT, still with stock brakes and suspension, I asked him about what was planned for brakes and handling and he said it was good enough and he would rather spend money on making it go faster. If there is logic there I dont see it.

Emailed and stuff, I hope I can make it, stupid work.

DO IT, you can change the lights at the back, I had to remove the hicas light and the airbag light, easy as. And yes, its no good flying down the straight and not having any idea how fast your going, need that sh1t for the pub bragging rights.

Pity I just bined a non hecktic cluster for a 33, so non hecktic that the tacho always read 0. New/second hand NISMO one cost me $600ish, Nissan owes us man. At least now the car has been reborn from a 198 000k old hack into a 42 000k hardly driven example (except for the 2000 000k,s of wear and tear of course). PS Your car looks sweet man, make sure you got good security for it, there is lots of scum around.

http://www.justjap.com.au/

Yeah Unigroup is building me a new motor which should be finished soon so a switch between maps sounds the go when its getting retuned.... I must look into this further....until then octane booster is it then. Happy Days