The Bogan

They did, but no, some utes a wagon, and.......a coupe cross 8 with a butt ugly front end that no one really liked, plus they weighed alot more and put down alot less power than their RWD versions Or there's this, there were heaps of these 4x4 conversions around when I was a kid, mainly Holden and Fords, utes, wagons and panel vans

Well, the 255/40 17 RS4's have no hope in putting traction down when going past 25% throttle in 1st or 2nd, I've done about 200 km on them so far, so they should be "scrubbed" in by now Whilst novel for the first 1 or 2 times, it is actually not really helpful when you are trying to take off with some "bravado", I've found myself needing to pedal "alot" more now than with the 275/40 17 R888R's, which was expected really The voices in my head started saying to "get another........another set of 17 x 9.5 RF1 rims for some R888R 275's for the dry", my reply to them was "are we happy to keep swapping out rims dependent on weather conditions, we already do that if we going to the drags, and also have them packed in the car for extended trips away on the off chance it rains, and then explain to the Minister for war and finances why there's no room for her 3 suitcases when we go away for the weekend, because whilst the R888R's are great in the dry, they try and kill us in the wet", the voices in my head said "fark no....bring on the RaceTCS"

Question: is it slightly lower in the front to move weight forward to reduce understeer??? Or something else??? For the VX they recommend me raising the front slightly higher in the front to move weight rearward for traction, it currently is 5mm higher in the front than STD FE2 height, although I really haven't noticed much of a change Disclaimer: the fat old VX doesn't go around corners at any real speed, but, in saying that, I haven't noticed any difference with the car wanting to understeer any more, or less, when I do hit a tight corner under some power Changing rake is interesting, and like most technical/geometry type things to me, black magic Post up how the changes feel when used in anger

Good news Car is booked in at Autotech to get the RaceTCS installed

Honestly, I lack the confidence for this, me splicing into the ABS and injectors has my spidey senses tingling In the end I'm happy to pay someone with the skills, knowledge and equipment needed to do it Spiro and Travis from Autotech are looking over the instructions and hopefully they can get it done for me

New Hankook RS4 all round, it did take 3 months for the fronts to be available though 235/45 17 front, 255/40 17 rear Whilst the 275/40 17 Toyo R888R were great/exceptional in the dry, and great value for money to boot, they really hated any standing water Just cruising along and hitting some standing water at 110kph on the Hume would cause the rear tyres to not be team players So back to the trusty old RS4's

That would be awesome Whilst I don't understand alot of stuff, I love looking at data

Step 1. Engage engineer, pay for initial inspection and their guidelines about what you want done then wait for the reply, will cost you a bit Step 2. Do what the engineer says Step 3. Get the engineer to inspect and hopefully sign it off, will cost you a bit Step 4. RMS, you are putting a larger non Nissan engine in, so it will need all the bells and whistles IRT safety and emissions testing, will cost a little Step 5. RMS papers work and rego stuff, will cost not alot Step 5. Skids

Need both

On all of my cars and bikes, both built engines and standard, I just start them, put my seat belt on, then drive off like Nanna, I've never had an issue In saying that, they don't get the loud pedal for at least 15 minutes from a cold start 15 minutes is my rule of thumb because I don't have a oil temp gauge Disclaimer: I'm just assume that my oil, 10w40, is at least matching my coolant temps after 15 minutes of normal driving What do people who monitor oil temp find IRT how long it takes for engine oil to get around, say, 90°c from a cold start, and what weight oils???? I remember watching some guys at the drags doing maintenance between runs, one thing they did was a oil change, the oil looked like it had the consistency of water When I talked to him about it he said the engine was built for low weight oil, it was all about power, clearances, oil pump, as well as the oil needed to be thin as it was started, rolled in for a burn out, then launched for the run, all within about 30 seconds, after the run the oil was dropped again as it considered toast from methanol contamination Yes, that is at the extreme end of performance for oil weights and alcohol contamination, but I did find it interesting, especially as everyone was using E85 in their built daily/cruisers at the time, and spun bearings were a common occurrence 10???? years ago I assume all the people running billet blocks and big(ish) power are using E85, how often do people change their oil running E85? I also assume it isn't every 5k km like me on 98 I assume everyone will drink for every time I said assume

From my limited understanding cutting fuel when the ABS detects wheel spin is connected to available traction, so if your on a good surface with good rubber that gives grip you still have all of the powers, as apposed to cutting timing in an area of the map that may not actually need it, dependent on available traction, well, when it comes to my limited understanding of anything to do with tuning and traction control I am learning new stuff every day, well.....I think I am anyways

The issue is finding someone to install it for me #menoskillz

I just sent Autotech a email to revisit getting the RaceTCS installed In the end, because of my lack of any wiring skills, and fear of burning the car down, if they cannot, or won't do the job, then I will need to revisit everything again Wish me luck

LOL, I'm an idiot This thingie, he said you can modify stuff in HPtuners to lower power in gears/RPM via timing A little less power in the low to midrange of 1st and maybe 2nd won't be missed as it now just wants to overpower the tyres with anything more than around 50% throttle on street tyres and around 75% throttle on drag radials If I could lose a little bit of power down low on drag radials to minimise wheelspin on drag radials I believe that would help my 60ft Also wouldn't that help with mechanical sympathy IRT low piston speed and boost??, although, whilst my boost is only at 7 psi, it pretty much makes it just off idle, hence all of the torques it makes at around 2k RPM What's your opinion on this table thingie? Cheers

@Kinkstaah I was sent this as the table in HPtuner to look at From your experience with HPtuner, if a tuner "tickled" this in 1st and 2nd to "lower power" a bit would it help?? Cheers

Sounds like a good long cruise that would be an interest to me, if I'm free that Saturday there may be a Bogan Cruise Ship tagging along behind for the day If you see this, sans blower hanging out the bonnet, say hi

My wiring skills are worse than my non existent tuning skills, so it needs to hit a shop to do it, no shop I've contacted are really keen for a few reasons Unless you want to drive down and do it for cash, if not, then I'm locked into what my local shops are keen to do it From talking to them there are a few options with the Haltech that doesn't involve injectors, timing, or going to an electric TB, all using the ABS I'm looking at a timing solution talking to the ABS signal as it would negate getting a electronic TB and adapter for the Harrop HTV2300 with is a couple of grand More research is needed I'll stop here as it's not on topic, I'll bring it up later in my bogan build thread Cheers for the input though

I had a old Blitz BOV on my old boat, it leaked "alot" under boost It was replaced with a Turbosmart one if I recall correctly and the Blitz one went in the bin

After talking to another tuning joint, Pulse Racing, I'm not going to be using the RaceTCS I'm now saving for a Haltech 2500 If anyone local wants it, it will cost a bottle of Chivas Regal PM me if you're interested, pick up from 2173 It also comes with some CAT wire and some connectors that I got to install it

Traction control thing? yes, it is still sitting in a shelf in the shed I asked about getting it installed, but, the joint I took it to wasn't sure about a few things as they hadn't installed one before, their concerns were splicing in the wiring to the ABS and injectors They recommend that if I want aftermarket traction control to look at something like a Haltech or other aftermarket ECU that pulls timing, rather than fuel I need to find someone in NSW who has done one of these Race TCS before so I have the confidence they know what they are doing before I pull the trigger on getting it installed Whilst it seemed to be a cheap and reliable way to get TC, getting it installed with confidence is problematic

Coil over damper, so yes 90% of OEM suspension is "coil over", just no adjustments in them, typically

I wonder if a my stock ECU can do this This, if possible, would help me alot with traction in 1st gear from the dig, even with 275/40 17 drag radials at 15psi on a prepped drag strip I cannot "stomp" to hard as it just spins the rears A little less "power", from say idle to 2500-3000 (ish????) rpm, would help with the mad PD blower torque from just off idle I really need a good aftermarket ECU with 2 maps, 1 for the street, and 1 for the strip Yes, my throttle control Kung Fu is weak in that regard when launching

I've used commercial underlay from this joint, yes it is used, but, you can get big offcut that are as new, and cheap The 10-15 mm commercial stuff is fairly firm and perfect for under the carpet in a car https://www.carpetrecyclers.com.au/

Got a new reverse camera, the old camera went like the poltergeist TV screen, new camera technology is awesome

Ground hog day Spent "most of the day" giving the car a full detail, started by putting it on stands and cleaning the under body and inner guards, and wheels, then stripped off all the old wax, then washed and polished a few little micro scratches out, then "lovingly" applied some Meguiars Gold Class Carnauba wax, by hand, using the warmth of my hands to soften the wax then smearing it "lovingly" into the paint (probably weird, but it works so well) After letting it cure for 1/2 an hour, enough time to clean and vacuum the interior, I buffed it off with about 10 microfibres, the paint looked excellent, I love the way wax gives that deep look to the paint After it was all smick I stood back and bathed in all of it's heavenly glory Then took it for a cruise, lovely day, car runs a dream, perfect.......until it started to rain on the way home