The Bogan

Tone wheel fixture is unknown, I'll have a gander tomorrow 275/40 17 Mickey Thompson ET street SS, so the sidewall is firmish, basically a street tyre with really soft rubber I just roll into the loud pedal to launch mate, as I have a PD supercharger boost is basically instant off idle, so no trans brake or foot braking is required to build boost

And fixed, and another box of broken parts for the steel bin at work, notice the one that didn't break has a nice twist in it down the splines

No, but probably yes

So.....after pulling the diff to fix the broken half shaft, they found the Eaton truetrac has a cracked in the body #sadface Sooooo.......it is getting a new Harrop Truetrac installed The Eaton is rated to 500hpatw, I'm also making 500hpatw, so there's that, the Harrop, rated to 500kwatw has a stronger billet body, the Eaton body is cast Not sure what came first, the broken half shaft or the crack in the Eaton truetrac body, did one go first and take the other with it? I'll ask more later when the car is ready to pick up, maybe no one knows, maybe it was aliens, maybe it was Covid vaccines On the bright side the Hardy Spicer ring and pinion gears are undamaged and can be reused

Good news, transmission is fine Bad news, a half shaft went kaboom Transmission is still coming out for a health check and service to be on the safe side, and also getting a a heavy duty flex plate and some fresh bolts fitted, might as well as cost is minimal for the flex plate and bolts As I would still be rolling the dice with the 4l60e on a prepped track with drag radials though, there will be no more drag racing at WSID, so sad face 😞 Diff is getting pulled and sent off for some love IRT new half shafts In other, "car that actually runs" news, I hit the Yaris seats and carpet with the Bissell I didn't think they were that bad after the initial spounge down and clean I did, but after letting the stain remover sit for a little longer, a good scrub, and then some Bissell action I was proved wrong Lots of American Staffie sweat and dribble was removed The Yaris is now sitting all opened up in the sun to dry out The initial results were yucky to say they least, 🤮, a second time around with the Bissell was required

The Yaris has the floor mats from my 86 They are the best part of the interior LOL

Hope it is the hand brake cable or shoes then Spin the wheels and find out

Sticky caliper pistons? Booster has nothing to do with binding brakes Might need a rebuild, maybe? Have a look at the discs, you should be able to tell which caliper is sticking If one is sticking, rebuild them all Youtube is your friend for how to rebuild them Or, your handbrake cable is to tight and needs adjusting or hung up on something, pull the wheels and find which brake is binding

Waxing is less scratchy

Don't do this >

Did you work out the centre of gravity of the vehicles? Is the 125x75x6mm bolted to the lift frame? Whilst it looks like it works, it reminds me of a long board overhanging on some work horses, get the weight wrong and to far up one end and all hell could break loose if it tips forwards or backwards I would run at least 4 nice sized bolts equally spaced through each of the hoist base and the tube, and use some 6mm flat bar underneath the hoist "ramps" to reinforce the underside to prevent the bolts pulling through Safety first, hospital or smashed car second

The big block Yaris basking in bushfire haze...probably should have had it in the sun, but meh, in the end it's still just a Yaris

I bet that is the first time anyone has asked for pictures of a Yaris, LOL I did get it insured, Pink slipped and regoed all today, as it was due this Wednesday The local mechanic who did the pink was impressed with its condition and how well it ran, I told him the story of how I got it and was probably going to flip it soon for around $5.5 -6k for a quick sale, he offered me $5.5k cash on the spot I was super tempted but told him I need it at least until the Commodore is fixed, he said when I want to sell it to give him a call I'm currently at just under $3k all in on it after the service and rego stuff, so a quick $2.5k profit would be sweet, I'll give my daughter $1.25k (extra dad points), that will give me a $1.25k earn on the time it took to do the service and clean $1.25k should almost cover my next trip to Goulburn in the Commodore to take my daughter shopping in Canberra.....LOL

Got the Yaris home Fuel economy on the way home used an 1/8th of the full 42 ltrs tank of fuel over about 170km, and it ran like a dream on the hwy (no cruise control unfortunately) Once home it got some well needed cleaning and love, oil and filter, air filter and some spark plugs, the trans fluid and coolant looks sweet, so nothing to do there Then I spent the next 5 hours getting it shiny shiny, I soaked the undercarriage, engine bay and body with some truck wash, then hit it all with the pressure washer and got rid of all the built up Goulburn bugs, dust and mud Then came the first wash and engine bay detail, then polish, then second wash and then finished it off with some wax The interior got the vacuum and lots of armour all, then the windows, the windows actually took about 3 goes around to get the windows clean, I think my daughter used a oily rag to clean them, they were filthy, the only issue with it is a stone chip on the passenger side, not huge, but still warranting some of that chip repair It was so enjoyable servicing and cleaning it all, and the before and after is amazing, Oh what a feeling The seats still need a good clean with the Bissell though, probably next week some time, the daughter drove around with her Staffie in it, they're not that bad, but not to my OCD level of clean will not allow it Getting the Yaris back now couldn't have come at a better time due to the Cruise Ship being broken, it is booked into Craig's to get looked at on Wednesday, "hopefully" it just needs to be pulled apart, cleaned, and some upgraded shafts put in, more on that later Once back though, the Bogan Cruise Ship will be relegated to cruise duties only, so no more racing at the strip with drag radials on

I cannot justify the coin it would cost really When chatting to Craigs about what I can do, to suit what I want the car to do, lots of Hwy cruising (so not a built T400 because no overdrive or lock up), and the occasional run down the strip, they suggested a built 6L80e conversion, they rate them at 800hp at the engine, and with my current power I could beat on the 6L80e all day at the drags, to try and run a 10.??? "but" the drive in and drive out cost is north of $20k though They also said I could then turn up the boost a bit and still keep the transmissionin in its happy place, but then I'm still on stock internals, and stock driveshafts, and from talking to a few modified LS1 owners, and a couple of tuners, I don't want to go over the torque that the engine is currently making That's lots of coin to spend when you start adding it up, and all to just do some more PB's on the strip, in a "street car" I'm trying to not explode the budget into the stratosphere, but still have some reliability for the power the car is making now Adding up risk vs reward Probable scenario: some billet stuff for piece of mind and added reliability whilst the box is out, but no more drag radials on a sticky surface, the sticky tyres slipping and grabbing when launching and the torque the engine makes is the elephant in the room, which is sitting on the 4l60e Whilst a 10.??? would be nice for bragging rights, it doesn't help with cruising around on the street on street tyres, which the car sees 99.9% of the time The VX is a awesome big comfortable cruiser though, and it fits the whole family in, and it already rolls on hard enough to make me smile Sad, but true Unless I win Lotto, then all bets are off Note to self: buy a Lotto ticket one day

Cheers, will definitely look into that

Booked into Craig's Automatics next Wednesday to see what let go, possibly some billet parts are required, from chatting to them it sounds like the input shaft let go I'll tell you what though, when I launched it after a huge burnout it just hooked and was probably the best launch the car has ever done, well, until it went BANG Anyways, time will tell on what is required In other high performance news, I pick up the big block Yaris this Saturday, I'll catch the train down to Goulburn, hang with the offspring, then roll back to Sydney on Sunday arvo in Yaris style, so, all of the fuel efficiency, and extremely slow 🐌 😀 👌 👍

Meh, cars hey,LOL

11.2ish Then the 11.04 but didn't get a 10.999 when I had another run, I did a big bang when I tried for it though The 4l60e was rated at 600hp at the engine, my car make about 600hp at the engine I was warned that even though it was a built transmission it wouldn't like big hits on drag radials Meh, I'm getting my monies worth out of my NRMA membership, so there's that, LOL

Close, but no cigar The start line is pretty average though I'll have 1 more go and see if I can get a better 60'

So far so good...

Gave the Cruise Ship a mini service, new engine oil and filter, also drained the diff and gave it some fresh oil, also put some new brake pads in because from a sideways glanced they looked low, found out they had heaps of meat still left, meh, changed them anyway and bled the brakes Then looked at the weather forecast, it looks good for tomorrow, that got me thinking Race prep involved me putting the drag radials on, removing 2 umbrellas, a few towels, a pair of crocs, and a straw hat from the boot, the car is now race ready for a few runs down the strip tomorrow night at WSID I also put my tyre pressure gauge is in the centre console, I forgot it last time and was running around 30 psi in the drag radials Yes, I do have my local tilt tray guy on speed dial I will either be posting slips, or pics of the car on a tilt tray......again.....

I would look at some plate underneath anything you are thinking of drilling throufh and attaching fixtures. Even a small amount of side loading could cause issues Safety first

Fair point on needing all round tyres, that's why I went back to the RS4 As for how long the R888R's lasted, I was surprised as well, although I pretty much just cruise around like Nana 90% of the time, it did rack up most of the km on lots of trips up and down the Hwy to Goulburn and back, I got the R888R's initially to try and get some traction from the dig, and while they were much better than the RS4's they still had traction issues, thus they were replaced with some drag radials for the strip and rolls The RaceTCS has helped massively with the RS4's on the street with traction though, both in the dry and more importantly wet conditions Happy travels

If your car doesn't come out to much in the wet Toyo R888R's last well, I got about 10k km out of them before putting RS4's back on, the R888R still had a few mm left from the tread wear markers when they came off, so probably another few k km's The R888R's were the best "fair weather" street tyre I have ever used, BUT, they didn't like pools of standing water I do alot of Hwy driving, rain, or shine, and whilst the R888R's were exceptional in the dry on the street they really didn't inspire confidence when hitting pools of water on the Hwy doing 110 kph If my car was just a sunny Sunday cruiser I would definitely still be running the R888R's, the difference between dry grip between the R888R's and RS4's is large, as you would expect From my experience with the RS4's you are likely to easily get 10-15 even 20k km out of them on the street if you aren't doing lots of skids or track work