The Bogan

LOL, I'm an idiot This thingie, he said you can modify stuff in HPtuners to lower power in gears/RPM via timing A little less power in the low to midrange of 1st and maybe 2nd won't be missed as it now just wants to overpower the tyres with anything more than around 50% throttle on street tyres and around 75% throttle on drag radials If I could lose a little bit of power down low on drag radials to minimise wheelspin on drag radials I believe that would help my 60ft Also wouldn't that help with mechanical sympathy IRT low piston speed and boost??, although, whilst my boost is only at 7 psi, it pretty much makes it just off idle, hence all of the torques it makes at around 2k RPM What's your opinion on this table thingie? Cheers

@Kinkstaah I was sent this as the table in HPtuner to look at From your experience with HPtuner, if a tuner "tickled" this in 1st and 2nd to "lower power" a bit would it help?? Cheers

Sounds like a good long cruise that would be an interest to me, if I'm free that Saturday there may be a Bogan Cruise Ship tagging along behind for the day If you see this, sans blower hanging out the bonnet, say hi

My wiring skills are worse than my non existent tuning skills, so it needs to hit a shop to do it, no shop I've contacted are really keen for a few reasons Unless you want to drive down and do it for cash, if not, then I'm locked into what my local shops are keen to do it From talking to them there are a few options with the Haltech that doesn't involve injectors, timing, or going to an electric TB, all using the ABS I'm looking at a timing solution talking to the ABS signal as it would negate getting a electronic TB and adapter for the Harrop HTV2300 with is a couple of grand More research is needed I'll stop here as it's not on topic, I'll bring it up later in my bogan build thread Cheers for the input though

I had a old Blitz BOV on my old boat, it leaked "alot" under boost It was replaced with a Turbosmart one if I recall correctly and the Blitz one went in the bin

After talking to another tuning joint, Pulse Racing, I'm not going to be using the RaceTCS I'm now saving for a Haltech 2500 If anyone local wants it, it will cost a bottle of Chivas Regal PM me if you're interested, pick up from 2173 It also comes with some CAT wire and some connectors that I got to install it

Traction control thing? yes, it is still sitting in a shelf in the shed I asked about getting it installed, but, the joint I took it to wasn't sure about a few things as they hadn't installed one before, their concerns were splicing in the wiring to the ABS and injectors They recommend that if I want aftermarket traction control to look at something like a Haltech or other aftermarket ECU that pulls timing, rather than fuel I need to find someone in NSW who has done one of these Race TCS before so I have the confidence they know what they are doing before I pull the trigger on getting it installed Whilst it seemed to be a cheap and reliable way to get TC, getting it installed with confidence is problematic

Coil over damper, so yes 90% of OEM suspension is "coil over", just no adjustments in them, typically

I wonder if a my stock ECU can do this This, if possible, would help me alot with traction in 1st gear from the dig, even with 275/40 17 drag radials at 15psi on a prepped drag strip I cannot "stomp" to hard as it just spins the rears A little less "power", from say idle to 2500-3000 (ish????) rpm, would help with the mad PD blower torque from just off idle I really need a good aftermarket ECU with 2 maps, 1 for the street, and 1 for the strip Yes, my throttle control Kung Fu is weak in that regard when launching

I've used commercial underlay from this joint, yes it is used, but, you can get big offcut that are as new, and cheap The 10-15 mm commercial stuff is fairly firm and perfect for under the carpet in a car https://www.carpetrecyclers.com.au/

Got a new reverse camera, the old camera went like the poltergeist TV screen, new camera technology is awesome

Ground hog day Spent "most of the day" giving the car a full detail, started by putting it on stands and cleaning the under body and inner guards, and wheels, then stripped off all the old wax, then washed and polished a few little micro scratches out, then "lovingly" applied some Meguiars Gold Class Carnauba wax, by hand, using the warmth of my hands to soften the wax then smearing it "lovingly" into the paint (probably weird, but it works so well) After letting it cure for 1/2 an hour, enough time to clean and vacuum the interior, I buffed it off with about 10 microfibres, the paint looked excellent, I love the way wax gives that deep look to the paint After it was all smick I stood back and bathed in all of it's heavenly glory Then took it for a cruise, lovely day, car runs a dream, perfect.......until it started to rain on the way home

But it shouldn't look like that now Precedence should have seen the pole moved before the road was laid down when they decided to realign the road, it should have been moved before working the subgrade at the lesst, not after a base has gone down Problems will occur after the pole is moved I've built plenty of sealed and unsealed roads with my job, that there is poor engineering practices, there is no way that would cut the mustard where I work I've seen plenty of roads that have needed upgraded drainage where they have dug trenches across existing roads to install culverts, within a few years, or something even months, the excavations will eventually consolidate causing low spots in the road surface, especially if they only use a whacker packer for compaction That pole probably goes down 2 meters, that's a big excavation to remove it, or, like I've seen local councils do, dig down 500mm and cut the pole off, which works until the stump eventually rots and the ground above subsidies, leaving a depression which will eventually fail We do alot of quality assurance IRT compaction density for our civil construction tasks, hell, one of my jobs is instructing on a course that deals alot with quality assurance, from Geo-technical site investigations for planning, using moisture mensity gauges or old school sand replacement tests, as well as best practice for all of our plant operators Looking at that pic makes my head hurt

I assume no one was looking at the precedences in the construction Gantt chart I wonder who was doing the project management? I wonder who was signing off on it? At least there will be somewhere for a pot hole to start after they move the pole and do the "typical" patch job on the asphalt Local council ethos: If a jobs worth doing, it's worth doing half arsed. I cringe everytime our local council fixes a pot hole or resurfaces a road, you just know it will be worse than what it was within a few months

17 x 8 +45 with 235/45 17 No rubbing anywhere, filled the guards great with a little 20mm drop on some MCA coils And look at the red VX SS Commodore in the pic, fate?????

I just got the right offset I think 17 x 8 +45

I hated my VA1 STI after I realised I would need to build the engine to get any real power for a 1550kg car safety Pulse Racing did the usual mods to it, intercooler, CAI, injectors, turbo back exhaust and a fuel pump, that gave around 215kwatw, pulse said the turbo was then pretty tapped out, and if I wanted more power it would need a bigger turbo, and a built closed deck engine The open decked, weak rodded EJ25 is junk in my opinion and should never have been used In the end I just hated looking at it, it started to look like a Kia sedan to my jaded eyes It was fun blasting it around on some dirt roads when I was working in Amberley though, but not to inspiring on the road My 86, after I put a turbo on it to get around 215kwatw, was a much better car to blast around the streets in.....until I backed it into a guard rail after hitting some diesel that was on the road at a roundabout that is I'm still jaded about killing the 86, I still have epic sads about that, and as they only released 60 of them, it makes the sads epic But giving the Bogan Cruise Ship a hit now and then does make me forget about the 86, until my daughter reminds me by sending photos of the 2017 Limited edition ones she sees that is, there is one that lives in Goulburn, every time see see it she sends her poor old dad a photo, I really should spend her inheritance on holidays, expensive sports cars and other random stuff.......that will teach her

So, the new MACE unbreakable engine mounts are in, the engine is now back to standard height, the driveline-(read: engine/transmission/tailshafts/diff) are all nicely aligned again to the correct angles of the dangles Everything fits nicely "under the bonnet", even with room to spare, driving back to work was a dream, no more NVH from hard poly engine mounts, and as was right in the world Until..........I gave the beans hard Harrop designed the blower to fit under the bonnet and have clearance everywhere, the top of the hat had heaps of space, and the rear belt drive had enough room to move up when the engine torqued, but........not when you add 10mm thermal spacers under the hat What happened was the allen key bolts that hold the rear belt idler on, and a lip on the firewall met and had a issue with each other trying to occupy the same ground, thus war ensued as they both fought to hold the same ground, noisy screeching war, Mark got scared, backed off, and panicked Apon inspection it seemed all good, maybe 10mm clearance between the allen key bolts and the lip on the firewall..... until you gave it the beans hard and the engine torqued up about 11mm to introduce about 1mm of the top of the allen key bolts to the lip on the firewall Luckily, Tyson had the correct "firewall tuning" tools on hand for me to use, a big bent 3 foot pry bar, that convinced the lip on the firewall to move a little (probably 10mm) out of the way So after careful tuning (you cannot really see where we tuned it), we had an ample amount of "no man's land" so that the waring parties would never again meet for hand to hand combat Testing was conducted again by giving it the beans hard from various roads speeds on the R888R's with great success Further testing will ensue as I'm going to try and hit WSID next Wednesday and see how it likes doing a big skid then getting stalled up on the foot brake and leaving hard on 275 Micky T drag radials on a sticky surface Note to self: I must rummage around the workshops at work and find a typical tuning tool to take to the drags with me, if, on the off chance, any further "tuning" is required Winner winner chicken dinner How fun is it modifying 🚗

Don't know, my experience with X pipes or Y pipes are only with a V8, X pipe on a dual exhaust, or a Y pipe on a single The X and H pipe dual sounded like thongs clapping, the Y pipe single sounds meaty, both had drone until I fitted a 2 in 2 out muffler on the dual, and a big resonator on the single As for the sound difference between a X pipe and a H pipe, I have noticed no real difference Sorry I cannot really help in that regard, but resonators will help with drone, hell even a 2 in 2 out muffler would work if the dual pipes line up I've run resonators on all of my aftermarket exhausts, the main function of a resonator is to reduce drone My LS1 has 1 7/8 4:1 headers, dual 3" catted Y pipe to 4" single with a 5" bodied resonator before the diff (had to get a custom one made to fit where I wanted it) and a 4" Varex out back, negligible drone when cruising, even with the windows up and the radio off, hell, my Mrs is always falling asleep when we are cruising around, but, it sounds like war when your on the loud pedal We do alot of cruising around on Hwy's and country roads, noticeable drone wouldn't cut the mustard

Yes, if the replacement engine has been reported stolen, or gets reported as stolen later on If it isn't stolen it is a blue slip if I recall correctly and they update your rego papers and stuff on their computer system

Blue slip, not green https://www.service.nsw.gov.au/transaction/authorised-unregistered-vehicle-inspections-blue-slips https://www.service.nsw.gov.au/transaction/modified-and-non-standard-vehicle-inspections

Needs a ???green slip??? NOT a 3rd party slip, one for an unregistered car, or a engine swap I did this years ago for an interstate car, and on engine swaps Not 100% on it now though I do know that if your licence says you live in NSW you only have a short time to get your rego changed to NSW, fines apply if you don't, and the interstate "3rd party" insurance in null and void as well I believe RMS inspection will require alot of mods to be returned to STD or equivalent as well I believe You "may" be able to get an engineer to sign off on some of it, there's alot of stuff that needs to comply to do it legally, an engineer can help with it all Check the RMS website for allowable modifications

Gave it a wash and wax to clear a week or so of dust off it All ready to drive down to Goulburn tonight to get covered in insects I hate driving down to Goulburn at night, Kangaroos and Wombats, fair warning, get to your beds and off the roads

Super happy with the result Ample clearance to use OEM height engine mounts I just need to put the Carbuilders premium under bonnet liner on to finish the "it's stock" look....... under bonnet 🤣, and fit the new engine mounts, then off to WSID for some more fun

I guess I'm on the spectrum then 🤪, I'm lots of colours