The Bogan

http://www.racetcs.com/ I can go full throttle in any conditions, rain hail or shine, minimal wheel slip for maximum acceleration Honestly, fitting RaceTCS was the best modification to my supercharged LS1 I wish I had RaceTCS fitted in my old R33 25/30 It really is a game changer, and IMO the best value for money aftermarket traction control on the market And yes, you can turn it off, you can also have 6 different settings, everything from basically 0% slip, too mad controlled skids that do not require pedaling My settings are based around getting the quickest 0-100kph time, so far on street tyres it has been a 3.96 sec 0-100kph on 255/40 17 RS4's You can set it for 0-100kph straight line runs like mine, or circuit racing in the wet or dry 6 settings of variable control, and off for mad skids You do need ABS though to control it, if you don't, you can do it aftermarket for a minimal outlay

Nice buy, these 5hit boxes are going for stupid money, hell, even a good LS long block is worth a mint I believe they are just refurbished frames with new coulson foams and covers, so, basically knock off's There's a joint in Vic that does nice covers for the VX SS seats you can fit yourself, but, by the time you factor in fitting and the time taken to strip, refit and glue the door trim panels, they aren't that much cheaper And from previous experiences, I'm no auto trimmer The knock off's include everything, all seats with new foam, door trim inserts and console, so basically just bolt/clip in I'm going to head in tomorrow to have a look at the quality and go from there I also got a quote for billet half shafts, $3500, but, the guy said they still might break because in the end they would still be 28 spline and the torque the car makes would likely kill them on a prepped track with drag radials, and if they didn't it would be the drive shafts next to so, so, more $$$$ on billet stuff that might break He did say the best option would be a 4 link 9" conversion, but all the fab work, and parts, would be around $20k.....nope In other traction control news, Jacek from RaceTCS contacted me to see how things are rolling, I told him I was super happy, but no testing was done at the drags because of the breakage, we swapped emails for a bit, we chatted about the platform and its short comings and he has sent me a new configurator to try with the drag radials on tarmac where the tyres aren't hooking as hard I'm going to give that a go roll racing at some stage, it seems that no one wants to buy the ET Street drag radials I'm trying to sell anyway, so instead of them sitting around doing nothing they may end up going on for fair weather cruises and some rolls at WSID As for actual drag racing, unless I win alot of money to waste on a old VX Commodore it isn't happening with drag radials again, and I'm fine with that....sort of..... Note to self: buy a Lotto ticket

I will need to black out the HSV stitching though, apart from that I really like them, and my 22 year old seats are starting to show a bit of bolster wear Cost is significant though at a smidge over $4k

Do want

All of the drivetrain shreading torque from idle that you would ever need, LOL Instant response sometimes has its downfalls when your power kicks your drivetrain in the balls 20231108_170005.mp4

For me the latest new post is the 3rd Nov #PranK I need to keep updated on what the cool kids are doing

I reckon I'm one of the oldest stupid kids in here

LOLOLOLOLOLOL 20231108_170005.mp4

I started handing out fresh fruit to them, the look on their little faces was priceless I didn't come up with the idea, I saw it somewhere, but I did roll with it for a few years Jackie ended up banning me from doing it as it was later being discussed in the local mothers Farcebook group page thingie because some of the kids had a sook Makes me smile just thinking about it Fat little shits

The difference a OK set of tyres and the rear swaybar has made is astounding Whilst it is as slow as 10 slow things acceleration wise, it now handles corners exceptionally well, no more wallowing around corners, and super settled in change of direction It is now the perfect, cheap to run, little daily that shoots through corners on the way to and from work like a champion It's no i20N, but that is a story for another time

Basically a fully prepped race Yaris, LOL

Because I'm a lazy SOB, I got Autotech to pick up a genuine Mitsubishi 140amp alt, and....... the last rear gilmer drive that Harrop had in stock, so no waiting for them to spin up some new stock Fingers crossed it arrives this week, and it gets fitted up before the SAU NSW Kebab cruise I want to do on 18 Nov. (I'm a sucker for a good Kebab) I'm also hoping the old alternator doesn't drop it's showbags on the 45 minute drive to the workshop, it is staying on the maintenance charger till I take it to Autotech Otherwise the NRMA will get another phone call for a tow, I tell you what, I'm getting my monies worth out of my "ultimate car package" with this thing

I agree about 240z's, but this one looks like it has lived on a diet of salt water, I did due diligence on it, crawled under and around it, there isn't much actual metal left below the roof line, the rust is everywhere, both doors, boot, bonnet, the lower whole body and sills are gone, as well as the underbody/floor, and totally beyond repair There may be 1 square meter of steel, apart from the roof which looks fine, that you could cut out of the higher body panels, and some dash stuff that also could be saved But as an actual car that could be saved, it is FUBAR Sad, but true

The body is shot, lots of rust holes in every panel and parts on the body It does have the glass and one or two parts you could strip for parts, but, work says no There is also about half a dozen old motorcycles that are in various stages of being stripped in disrepair, a old land cruiser that has been pulled of its frame, and fully stripped, pallets of old wheels, exhausts, suspension and dead engines The shed is meant to be for people to wash and service cars on base, but no one has been able to get in there for years because random unfinished project stuff is everywhere The powers that be sent out a message about removing "everything" out of the shed, and it not to be used for projects Nobody has claimed their stuff so it is all going "in the bin" I'm all for this "6 bay" shed only being used for washing, and in/out serving stuff Having a undercover area at work for servicing and cleaning cars will be a great place to be when I need to head out from work to do some "administration"

Dose, this is a shitbox, yours is definitely not It is abandoned and will be in the bin soon

I believe my cheapo ebay alternator is kaput, fluctuating around 12.2v at the battery when running, and on the scanner it fluctuates between 11.4 and 13v I'm going to invest in a quality one this time, there isn't alot of difference in the price, and I should of went quality first up, instead of being a bum and trying to save $50 Also, because I'm a idiot consumer, I'm pulling the pin to get the Harrop Gilmer rear drive for the blower, why you may ask, #moreblowerwhinenoises I'm going to stay the same 1:1 ratio though as the car makes enough power as it is for the street There is a 1.14:1 ratio available to up the boost, but that would just make my transmission and drivetrain hate life even more than now I'm just after proper voltage, and more whining noises for the LOLS

Read some stuff from tire rack in relation to dry and wet weather tyres https://www.tirerack.com/tires/types/category.jsp?category=PERFORMANCE If it asks for a area code, type in 90210 which is a area code for Beverley Hills

They are not semi-slicks, they seem to be a cheap long life tyre with some marketing They have a 380 tread wear rating The RS4"s on my SS have a 200 tread wear and are OK in the wet if you don't drive like a pork chop If they are that bad in the wet I would bin them I cannot see them actually being really good in the dry with that high of a tread wear rating, the RE003's on my Yaris would probably be better than them with a tread wear of 220

What tyres are you calling semi slicks? Semis on front and back, or just back? In saying that, you need to drive to the conditions, be gentle on the throttle Have another set of rims with "good" all seasons grippy tyres on them for inclement weather or when your just cruising around Think about the people that you may crash into and possibly injure, or kill, if you "spin out" driving on a public road in the wet, also thinl about how effective your braking is on a wet road with semi slicks, this is why I don't run motorsport type tyres when it's wet on public roads, the risk is to high

The guy I sold it to put a dog in I believe, the guy he sold it put a t400 in

It was like peeling skin on the meshing mating surfaces, sort of.....basically alot of wear

The engine torque my old girl made stripped the material on the teeth gears (case hardening????) and killed the syncros and other little bits in there, smurfs blood worked for a while, but in the end the box was painful to use It was sent of for a full rebuild to "Award" I think 🤔, organised by UNIGROUP, for new springs, syncros, "things", gears and some internal baffling or something All was well until I hit the circuit and drags a few times when it started not wanting to shift and making a slight "whining" sound, then after a few more hits at the strip on drag radials it was whining like ten whining things Rinse and repeat, until it started to whine a little again, I then priced up the fix, better gears, syncos and things, which I couldn't really justify, I was recommended to drop the power down if I wanted the standard box to live if I didn't upgrade it all, I then proceed to dropped my showbags and sell the thing The added torque the engine puts out from running "high power" and sticky tyres is far over what the box and its internal stuff are rated for I just tried googling the torque limits for the RB boxes, but was unsuccessful, the best I could find was 600-700hpatw, so around 480-560 hpatw if you use a 20% drivetrain loss (rule of thumb) My old 25/30 ended up making 500hpatw, that's when the gearbox hated life IIRC, which isn't really likely, the GTR box is rated to 600 "ish" nm at the engine, a RB, with a good page up for boost, would easily be making over that Again, IIRC, my 25/30 was making over 800nm atw around 4500rpm Nissan did over engineer their boxes a bit, but not by that much Are there any RB's out there making 500hpatw reliability that see the track or circuit? It seems like a common reliability modification to build them with all the fancy stuff, or change the stock boxes out for a delicious or something when your making good power for circuit, or a slush box for the drags I'm triggered now with all this talk about RB gearboxs and torque ratings, I'm going to light a candle and pray to the gods of "infernal combustion" for my 4l60e and half shafts, that are dealing with more torque than they should really see Happy trails Dose

Fancy

The Yaris's transmission is basically rebuilt, well.... new fluid and filter anyways, and slightly overfilled, so perfect. Also order the new tyres for it today, the old ones were 7 years old and toast, so instead of just getting some fresh random cheapo's I got "cheapish" 195/60 15 RE003's on a buy 3 get the 4th free deal, get them fitted tomorrow, so basically race slicks to keep the 80 kwat....engine, in check And because I'm a idiot consumer, I got a 22mm Whiteline rear sway bar, "apparently" it helps alot with the thing wallowing around in corners and roundabouts going to the shops to get groceries I even washed it today, and by wash I mean hit it with the gernie foamer with some wash and wax in it, then pressure washed it, then wiped it over with a old T-shirt, perfect

And because I'm a consumer Some "hektic" black steel wheel nuts (+10hp) If there "not-shit" I might get some for the Bogan mobile For $24 bucks delivered next week they are worth the risk