The Bogan

Will be upgrading turbo soon and would like to know if there is any benifit in using a high mount over a low mount or is it just for looks. Thanks.

RIMS NOW SOLD FOR A 6 PACK OF BEAM OR $20. BAARRGGAAIIN NO ROOM (the missus has spoken) MUST GO WOULD RATHER NOT SELL TO THE SCRAP YARD IF YOU DONT GET THEM IN A COUPLE OF DAYS THEY WILL BE SOLD TO SCAP YARD FOR THE PRICE OF THE ALLOY WHAT A WASTE DONT RISK YOUR GOOD RIMS, PUT SOME RUBBER ON THESE AND AWAY YOU GO.

Still no photos, just imagine the rims but they are not new, slight rash on 1 rim.The rims would come up well if cleaned but if you only want them for drag, drift, or just smoking they are good to go.

Not yet, cannot find my camera, but if you loook at the ozzy tyre web site or advert in HPI they are like the KONIG Netz in silver.

Make:HOLDEN Model:VS UTE Milage:130 K Transmission:MANUAL 5 SPEED Colour:WHITE Location:LIVERPOOL AREA Complied?YES RWC supplied?NO Currently registered?YES, TILL MARCH 2009 Price:$8,000 ono Contact:PM ME Comments / Modifications:HEADERS, SPORTS EXHAUST, REAR COVER. Images:

Item:alloy rims Age: Condition:good for smoking, drags. Price:$50 for both To Fit:r33 rear Location:liverpool area Contact:pm mark Comments:3 peice j rims

DO NOT REPLY HERE,moved to nsw forum

Whats the best place to take my 33 to for a engine rebuild, forgies-balanced-cams-head work ect, and new bolt ons,ie new snail, ecu, injectors, dyno. It must be streetable and reliable but i still want it to get up and go when i hit the right pedal, im wanting at least 300 kw atw. I live in western sydney, also im not interested in how much things cost i just need to know of some good honest, reliable work shops in my area. Thanks. MLR

Thanks mate, most helpfull.

Whats the best place to take my 33 to for a engine rebuild, forgies-balanced-cams-head work ect, and new bolt ons,ie new snail, ecu, injectors, dyno. It must be streetable and reliable but i still want it to get up and go when i hit the right pedal, im wanting at least 300 kw atw. I live in western sydney, also im not interested in how much things cost i just need to know of some good honest, reliable work shops in my area. Thanks. MLR

Hello everybody, may the road rise up to meet you and the air always be cold and dense. MLR

when your going to buy that part even when she says no more

Ok, my mechanic says my piggy back is a pain so im after a new engine mangement system for my R33 GTS-T, How about some opinions on what people think is good and what isnt. Im looking for something that will be able to accept future mods and give me good engine protection. I also have all work done by a mechanic(yes im lazy). Also im looking around for good mechanics in the liverpool area of NSW as this is my first vehicle that needs a specialist to service and tune.(ive only owned V8s and Motorbikes in the past). The motor internals will be standard and i will only be adding bolt ons. Thanks for any help. MLR PS, I wish i had a car with the scarry fast feeling i get with my old 1100 GIXXER (pity it corners like a wet spounge).

I dont think that gaskets, plenum or a manifold whould have anything to do with the structual integrity of a turbo that is exceeding its safe boost range. Im more worried about it running lean or just going bang from overpressure.

synthetic or a natural fiber. .

Thanks again, its got a piggy back comp but i dont know about the injectors, the shop guy will tell me tomorrow, 14 psi is gold and ive given it a canning at that , but 18 psi, wow, the difference from 7 to 14 was huge so i assume 18 will be anouther big step, if shes got the injectors to feed her the go juice.

Sydney, West.

A lock bar is my next purchase, will that make the hicas light come on and if so do you know how to disconnect it or will the shop do it [ ALL MY WORK ON THE CAR IS DONE AT SHOPS, yes im lazy ]

Thanks mate, its going in the shop tomorrow to have oils, fluids and plugs replaced so ill see if he can set it for 12 psi and re-plumb my bov, i like giving it a good hard thrash but i dont want it to go to the gods, pity i live in NSW as it sounded ubber cool with the bov venting to atmo. Im also a bit of a spastic when it comes to computers and searching forums { my missus has just showed me how to google and finding this forum is like being kissed on the dick, can i say that, opps] so i appoligise for not looking around more, spent the last few days looking at the free HP posts though, made a nice little shroud to cover up my apparently illegal pod filter. Again thanks for the help, now all ive got to do is remove the hicas and stop the air bag light from staying on as it has a momo wheel.

NEW TO SITE , opps ill stop yelling, Hi Marks my name and ive just bought a R33, Blows the doors of my vs 5l 5 spd ute, but here is the problem ,its got a boostswitch ,7 psi off ,about 14 psi when i hit the switch, and about 20 psi when i wind the knobby thing from let to right . What is a safe psi to run it at, the turdo is standard but the guy i bought it of says it has been flowed { im a old barstard who is used to n/a style cars i.e v8,s } so i dont know if this is good or not or if this is ok to run at 14 psi or more. I like the power at 14 psi but will my turbo go to the gods if i run on that consistantly. Also now that i got someones attention is a blow of valve that vents to atmo a defect and if so it i plumb it back into the intake will i lose power, gain power, or stay the same.{i hope i can keep it cause it sounds sweet, put-ttttsssssssss } Thanks for any help you can give me. And yes i like to flog the r33 when ever i can {when in dought gas it}