The Bogan

#kinkstaah you good looking rooster So, RaceTCS is installed and working as advertised, just to good, or, basically not set up right yet First tyres tested were the 255/40 17 RS4's The % of slip settings and the Max % fuel cut, all 6 set at 95% fuel cut are to aggressive for my driving "style" of mashing the pedal everywhere I go Setting 1: min 3% Max 27% , nope even on a little stab it cuts hard Setting 2: min 6% Max 31%, nope again Setting 3: min 9% Max 34% still nope Setting 4: min 12% Max 37% Setting 5: min 15% Max 40%, bit better, but still aggressive Setting 6: min 20% Max 50%, noticeably better but still cut aggressively with more throttle Can you have a squizz at the pic to give me some pointers? What sort of settings do you run Any tips in setting the min and Max for each Setting, or what % of fuel cut, I assume 95% fuel cut basically turns a V8 into a 1 cylinder, from my uneducated mind....shouldn't it be around 12.5%, which, again from the jumbled mind of Mark, should only drop 2 cylinders? Disclaimer: I just did math in my head with the help of my fingers Cheers

Great cause, great cruise, great destination I'll try and get out, but if I can't, is their a link to the charity to donate?

Oops. Sunday it is then Stupid old bogan.... Cheers

I like funny stories, tell us more

You calling me a "Knob end".... LOL

Out of those 3 Bayside blue is a real nice "colour", and IMO classic, white and silver just blends in with every other car You will probably find most will already have some basic mods like you already mentioned As for what series, buy the newest and best condition your budget allows

Fixed your post, spell check must have got you LOL, well spotted by you, not the editor working for Holden

Awesome, thanks for that

Drove to Goulburn to visit my daughter Goulburn has it all, wet, and cold I'll probably be living here permanently in 2 years when I retire so I better harden up Even with the wet and cold it still beats living in the Sydney suburbs though

Politically incorrect, but funny, well..... . . https://youtu.be/GvWXvw5HHDI

I believe alot of people only look at peak HP numbers, not the torque curves, and definitely not drivablility They focus on peak HP on a dyno sheet Also some build their street car engines to perform high in the RPM range with massive cams or turbos suited to racing at the track of strip, then complain that they are a pig to drive on the street because they have built out the response down low, fine if you can sit at the line on a transbrake or launch control, not so much when you want to take of quick from a set of lights I'm glad I found SAU all those years ago, and although I've made some "poor choices" in the years after, the info I have gained here has limited the number of poor choices the voices in my head, or other internet experts from the Googles have advised is the "way to go" 10 points to SAU

My Pedders Extreme suspension only has dampening settings, but the spring rates are excellent for the street, for the dampening settings on the street I currently have them set at 8 clicks from full soft on each end (there is 30 clicks between full soft and full hard), works well for rough Sydney roads When I got them I started playing around from full soft, and kept clicking over a few weeks of driving to get the compliance I was after On full soft, if I hit a bump/pothole it would hit the bump stops, on 8 clicks from soft it glides over bumps like a Limo which is what I want for the street

I'm limited to suspension changes, at the drags all I do is go full soft on the front and full hard on the rear, that let's the front raise, but limits squat in the rear to try and avoid unloading the rear tyre For the rear I've got adjustable camber bushings, the best I can get it is -0.5° static with zero toe, that is good for tyre wear on the street, more toe would help with any additional camber from when it squats a little, but, that would start chewing out tyres on the hwy For the drags squat in an IRS is bad, front lifting and staying up is good, I am thinking about getting some 90/10 for the front, well, later down the track anyway, maybe.....

They did, but no, some utes a wagon, and.......a coupe cross 8 with a butt ugly front end that no one really liked, plus they weighed alot more and put down alot less power than their RWD versions Or there's this, there were heaps of these 4x4 conversions around when I was a kid, mainly Holden and Fords, utes, wagons and panel vans

Well, the 255/40 17 RS4's have no hope in putting traction down when going past 25% throttle in 1st or 2nd, I've done about 200 km on them so far, so they should be "scrubbed" in by now Whilst novel for the first 1 or 2 times, it is actually not really helpful when you are trying to take off with some "bravado", I've found myself needing to pedal "alot" more now than with the 275/40 17 R888R's, which was expected really The voices in my head started saying to "get another........another set of 17 x 9.5 RF1 rims for some R888R 275's for the dry", my reply to them was "are we happy to keep swapping out rims dependent on weather conditions, we already do that if we going to the drags, and also have them packed in the car for extended trips away on the off chance it rains, and then explain to the Minister for war and finances why there's no room for her 3 suitcases when we go away for the weekend, because whilst the R888R's are great in the dry, they try and kill us in the wet", the voices in my head said "fark no....bring on the RaceTCS"

Question: is it slightly lower in the front to move weight forward to reduce understeer??? Or something else??? For the VX they recommend me raising the front slightly higher in the front to move weight rearward for traction, it currently is 5mm higher in the front than STD FE2 height, although I really haven't noticed much of a change Disclaimer: the fat old VX doesn't go around corners at any real speed, but, in saying that, I haven't noticed any difference with the car wanting to understeer any more, or less, when I do hit a tight corner under some power Changing rake is interesting, and like most technical/geometry type things to me, black magic Post up how the changes feel when used in anger

Good news Car is booked in at Autotech to get the RaceTCS installed

Honestly, I lack the confidence for this, me splicing into the ABS and injectors has my spidey senses tingling In the end I'm happy to pay someone with the skills, knowledge and equipment needed to do it Spiro and Travis from Autotech are looking over the instructions and hopefully they can get it done for me

New Hankook RS4 all round, it did take 3 months for the fronts to be available though 235/45 17 front, 255/40 17 rear Whilst the 275/40 17 Toyo R888R were great/exceptional in the dry, and great value for money to boot, they really hated any standing water Just cruising along and hitting some standing water at 110kph on the Hume would cause the rear tyres to not be team players So back to the trusty old RS4's

That would be awesome Whilst I don't understand alot of stuff, I love looking at data

Step 1. Engage engineer, pay for initial inspection and their guidelines about what you want done then wait for the reply, will cost you a bit Step 2. Do what the engineer says Step 3. Get the engineer to inspect and hopefully sign it off, will cost you a bit Step 4. RMS, you are putting a larger non Nissan engine in, so it will need all the bells and whistles IRT safety and emissions testing, will cost a little Step 5. RMS papers work and rego stuff, will cost not alot Step 5. Skids

Need both

On all of my cars and bikes, both built engines and standard, I just start them, put my seat belt on, then drive off like Nanna, I've never had an issue In saying that, they don't get the loud pedal for at least 15 minutes from a cold start 15 minutes is my rule of thumb because I don't have a oil temp gauge Disclaimer: I'm just assume that my oil, 10w40, is at least matching my coolant temps after 15 minutes of normal driving What do people who monitor oil temp find IRT how long it takes for engine oil to get around, say, 90°c from a cold start, and what weight oils???? I remember watching some guys at the drags doing maintenance between runs, one thing they did was a oil change, the oil looked like it had the consistency of water When I talked to him about it he said the engine was built for low weight oil, it was all about power, clearances, oil pump, as well as the oil needed to be thin as it was started, rolled in for a burn out, then launched for the run, all within about 30 seconds, after the run the oil was dropped again as it considered toast from methanol contamination Yes, that is at the extreme end of performance for oil weights and alcohol contamination, but I did find it interesting, especially as everyone was using E85 in their built daily/cruisers at the time, and spun bearings were a common occurrence 10???? years ago I assume all the people running billet blocks and big(ish) power are using E85, how often do people change their oil running E85? I also assume it isn't every 5k km like me on 98 I assume everyone will drink for every time I said assume