The Bogan

The same

Got the 4" Varex fitted. Nice and quiet closed for keeping neighbours happy early morning and late at night, nice and loudish open to keep me happy, basically has the same sound open thru the rev range as the old 4" it replaced. Put the momentary switch on the cover for the interior fuse box cover, nice and easy to get to. Mark is happy

I did my apprenticeship in imperial measurements, I've still got imperial steel rules I sometimes use, it annoys the he'll out of people sometimes, probably why I keep them around, typically anyone born after 1970

The only time it will be closed is at home, for start ups and returning late at night, or, if pulled over by the constabulary for breath tests and stuff So no need for anything fancy, just easy and reliable, fully open or fully closed The neighbours have a new baby, I don't want to be "that neighbour" leaving for work, or coming home late

Fark, my phone keeps farking up the formatting when I type in forums, and only forums I cannot be trusted with any electronics more advanced than a XBox 360

I've got a ODB2 scanner that monitors IAT, and stuff, a up/down button is simple to work and easy to install What I really want is a Haltec ecu thing is that monitors/adjusts everything, but, for the car it is overkill and costs way more than this old rooster can justify to purchase, wire in and then retune Maybe if I win lotto 😒

Cable ties and chewing gum?

Not doing that because I cannot touch phone when driving because "da law", plus the box costs over $500 and you need the remotes

It is a monetary switch, so push the top or bottom to open or close You can get a smart box that works on a phone app to have open 25%, 50%, 75% or fully

I don't want to "danger to manifold" So nope

A lose wire and a dodgy lead was the cause of the misfire, car is back to loving the loud pedal Still waiting for the 4" Varex to turn up, the X Force toggle switch has already arrived, but as yet I'm not certain where it is going to go, somewhere that is easy, quick, but still out of the way, maybe the fuse box cover, maybe in the centre console????? I also need to work out how to get the wiring from the Varex inside, hopefully there is already a grommet in the boot somewhere handy, otherwise it's a big drill bit and a grommet

I prefer an old cruiser over a sports car now Slow and low Or in my case, fast(ish) and not so low that I cannot clear speed humps, driveways, and the occasional parking spot concrete block thing

Car had a miss only when nailing it, so I changed the plugs, that didn't fix it, so looked hard at the leads, they "seemed" fine, sooooo, dropped it off to Autotech to see what's up I'm guessing a coil, or lead, or wire, or "something" else all together Car was still driving fine cruising on the street or hwy, just not when I mashed the loud pedal Stupid car..... how am I meant to show the local cars my tail lights.....

Buy a big old classic cruiser/VIP style of car, without all of the typical #becauseracecar over the top mods, and don't beat on it Weekend cruises with the family is where it's at Slow and low

Dropped a deposit on a 4" in/out Varex muffler Do I need a 4", probably not, LOL Also got the remote delete for a momentary switch coming in the mail Thinking about it after I hit the buy now button, I probably could have used one of the rear windows switches, door Meh, consumers must consume 🤣

Needs more LS, I literally thrash the bejebus out of the bogan cruise ship every day, started at 260ish killer wasps, now around 360 killer wasps, stock heads, stock bottom end, not to shabby for a old dinosaur push rod engine Over the 2 odd years I've had it it has racked up about 35k km, and at 150k km it is basically only just run in It never uses oil, never really breaks, apart from the usual maintenance for a 20 year old mass produced shit box You should buy that BMW

My phone typing thing is is FUBAR, sorry

Truck spare parts have quality beanies Most of the aftermarket stuff is average or costs an arm and a leg

New knock off headlights are not storm proof and have got some condensation happening I'll pull them in a while and try and do a smoke test to find where they are leaking They currently have the caps removed to try and dry them out Insert sad face here..... In other news the car has almost run up to 150k km, so the LS1 is basically just run in...

If size matters for a first car, Toyota Camry, boring, but excellent I bought my daughter a Yaris because she wanted a little car that was cheap to run, she has not had 1 issue Well.....she did hit a kangaroo doing 80kph, she was find, and the car cost $1500 to fix Luck, yes, but still 

Full boost (7 psi) arrives just off idle, excellent for a street car with visions of grandeur

Hardy Spicer in Moorebank did a reco on my tailshaft so it is now back to new....OEM spec IRT couplings, uni's and centre bearing (that puppy was trashed), it is all balanced up and within specs........soooo...... I'm going to WSID tomorrow to see how it likes some tailshaft speed They said due to the power I'm making the front and rear OEM style couplings probably won't last to long if I'm launching it hard with drag radials, and if I'm doing alot of high tailshaft speed runs (read: at the big end at the drags) the centre bearing will also not be enjoying life A fancy new 3" 2 piece tailshaft with super dooper big uni's and some special centre bearing that can cope with all of the rpm's and all of the killerwaps is apparently only $2.5k away, so as my max rpm is only 6k rpm, that is an over engineered option available for when I chew out my new OEM spec one Also purchased a killer wickerwork picnic basket for when we go on country adventures, this will work well with my 12v fridge to keep all the fruits, cheeses, sangas and vino chilled

Sweet rig

Nearly finished