The Bogan

But not as bad as Sydney drivers

I shot you a PM, well maybe I did, it should work, unless I munted the message settings ssomewhere somehow, which is quite possible 🤔 Ask for questions, ask away here if you want

Nerd 🤓 I love it 😀

Anyways....I've dropped cash to Autotech so they can source all the bits and pieces Once they get all the "stuff" it'll go in for installation and tuning From there we will see how it rolls And yes, the Dodge Demon does run a form of interchiller, but the FI brand name stuff is more efficient though, apparently There are currently a few different interchillers on the market, but the FI one seems to be the most efficient of them all.....as well as the most expensive 🤪

Because a intake only has the pipes outer wall, whereas a intercooler, be it A2A or W2A has alot more surface area The surface area of say a 4" intake pipe is tiny compared to a intercooler or any other heat sink The main benefit of an interchiller is keeping intake temps from reaching the point that the ECM pulls timing So whilst it may, or may not, make 12kw somewhere, it will not lose 100kw when the ECM pulls timing because the IAT is reading 70°c

Ouch, and with current rain that is falling (my friends house in 2173 is currently flooding for the first time ever) I would assume the weir will be flooding for a while yet It isn't a big system, but all the water catchments are full and the ground is saturated On a positive note, there are waterfalls everywhere Should go for a drive up the blue mountains ⛰️ tomorrow .......nope, the Hawkesbury-Nepean makes me nervous when it is raining

LOL, it's a 20 year old car, stuffs gonna break If I did write a book you could call it "how to waste money on cars and motorcycles in 999,999 easy steps"

Na, apparently the sensors are exactly the same, but, they wire the sensors differently for different makes and models Well, that's what the googles say anyway, and it seems getting the wrong, right sensor is a common issue. All is well now, it got back to Sydney and is all parked up. What an epic adventure that was

This one works

Nope Car didn't start, the new "tridon" sensor is faulty Mechanic went off looking for another CPS and luckily found another, different brand though, which could be good, or bad...at least it cannot get worse, knock on wood, I probably shouldn't have said that.... The funny thing is the car started before he started working on it When the CPS sensor dies it stops working when the engine is hot, then works when it has cooled down, for a while anyway, I didn't want to risk a hwy run and possibly get caught out in the middle of nowhere when it fully dropped its showbags Meh, what can you do In other news Jackie seemed a tad cranky after I told her the news this morning Meh, life would be boring if it was rosey all the time, simple, but boring Meanwhile

Thank god for mobile mechanics It was a simple fix Remove starter motor, R&R CPS Put it back together Pay stupid amounts of 💰 for simple fix Win Sydney, here I come Well soon.....the car spent the night under a tree where all the birds who have diarrhoea live, so it will need a trip to the wash point first

Wendsday: Drove to Goulburn to visit daughter for a few days, nice Friday AM: Drove from Goulburn to Canberra to do some training, nice Friday PM: Went to Costco in Canberra for fuel for the trip back to Sydney.......cranks over fine but car wouldn't restart......pushed car away from pumps.....still wouldn't start......popped bonnet....looks good.....wobbled wires..... still won't start.....got angry....rang NRMA who I am not a member of......$560 later NRMA arrive......maybe Crank Position Sensor......called "mobile mechanic" no LS1 CPS in Canberra.....of course......NRMA tow car back to local military base to park it up and await the new day....and over night parts from Sydney... Today: Awaiting mobile mechanic to arrive sometime today with new a CPS Now: Hoping that it is a CPS.... SYMPTOMS Cranks fine Tries to fire, but doesn't No tachometer signal

https://www.airnewzealandcargo.com/national-cargo-dangerous-goods Not sure why they want a purge cert for a gearbox though

Cheap, but logistically troublesome with refilling and stuff, I would put in the same boat as an ice box Possibly fine for turbo, or centrifugal front mount, but not for a top mount PD blower, shooting a mist at rotors isn't recommended

Cool ambient temp air is king 🥶 I would assume that my OEM, slightly modified, airbox would be getting near on ambient temps from just behind the headlight and where there is a hole in the body work for clean air and some plate blocking "most" engine bay heat, there are some improvements that I'm looking at, but it's got a pretty clean fresh air flow The tricky thing with a top mount blower is getting an accurate IAT reading, actual IAT may be, say 40°c post the blower, but because of packaging and the resultant heat soak of the sensor, the ECM is seeing 60°c from the sensor.... Fun times 🥴

For me it isn't about making more power, it is about keeping the power I have I believe my ECM starts pulling timing from 50°c IAT and over that it pulls more pretty hard I'm stagging at the drags with 70°c IAT, at the big end I'm at 80°c Hence the car goes like a cut snake below "around" 50°c IAT, from 60-70°c IAT it pulls timing that hard that it is obviously noticeable from the drivers seat that the power has dropped its showbags I don't believe a interchiller would be on any use on a circuit car, maybe, I don'tknow, and for "big" powered drag cars a reservoir is required to ensure that there is enough low temp coolant available for a full run A Interchiller is just like an ice box, the benefit of this is you don't need to replace the ice, just idling down the return road will bring the coolant temps back down For the street, it will always be super cold. There are also ways to add efficiency to my 20 year old AC system by replacing and adding modern condensers, this also helps drop the intercooler coolant temp, and is relatively cheap to achieve 😀

For NA I couldn't see the cost being justified, you are just dealing with ambient temp and "possibly" a small bit of heat transfer But, I've done a little reading into IAT, CAI and heat transfer The IAT varies greatly dependant on the sensor location, and I cannot really see the air being "heat soaked" for the fraction of a second that the air is travelling from the CAI to intake valves of an NA engine. 5.7 x (6000 rpm ÷ 2) = 17100 litres of air a minute at 6000rpm (very roughly) #efficiency Thats 17100 ÷ 60 = 285 litres a second is getting sucked down its throat These rough calcs do assume 100% efficiency though, but even at half the volume, that is still near 150 litres a second. What size is your intake and how long is it? I'm guestimating that the air speed is exactly "really really bloody fast", too fast to heat up the ambient air to any noticeable degree.... For reference my post blower AIT goes up pretty much with the coolant temp, to settle at around 50°c, when its sitting in traffic or after a pull it gets to around 70°c, but after I shut the car down, it goes from 50°c to 70°c fairly quickly, but once the car is running and moving again it slowly comes down to 50°c See pic for where my IAT sensor is in relation to the engine, it is basically bolted to the head, and this is why the spacers "lower" the IAT temp, it is really only stopping heat soak from affecting the sensor, actual IAT hasn't changed at all, from my research spacers alone seems to lower IAT between 10 - 20°c, the interchiller can get another -20° c Meh, math and science make my head hurt

My beastie isn't a race car, my aircon is always on anyway, so cruising around will always have low IAT as the chiller is, ummm, chilling. The issues come when the car is at full throttle, the AC shuts off and then once the chilled coolant has gone thru the wta intercooler it starts to warm up But, it will last a no problem for a roll. Ive chatted to a few people with them and they have nothing but good reviews. They recommend getting a larger header/coolant tank for the WTA cooler if you want to keep sub freezing coolant for a whole 1/4 mile pull though, although only a coulpe of cars actually had the larger tanks, and the cars that didn't said that the AIT only raised a bit at the end of a run, and it only took a couple of minutes heading back down the return track to get the coolant temps down super low again I'm not to fussed though, as long as my IAT is happy enough to not pull timing. It looks like weird science, and I'm all for weird science

I'm just waiting for a Spiro to give me call, I'll drop some coin so he can gather the required parts, then when everything arrives I'll drop the car off for some...... And by "when everything arrives" doesn't count for other random bits that may be required mid install.......as usual 🙄 Bloody cars

I had to cancel my booking at Autotech to get the thermal spacers installed because of work, meh, work pays the bills, but whilst I've been away I've had a little down time here and there, so, .........Idle hands are the devils play thing. I've bit the proverbial bullet and will get the interchiller done at the same time. There isn't alot of options brand wise, but Autotech has installed a few FI-interchillers with some really good results. I'm not looking for more power, it's just to keep the IAT under control, and by under control I mean possibly below ambient IAT, dependant on how deep I want to go with additional condensers, other "stuff" and coin https://fiinterchillers.com/

I think it's more pop pop crackle crackle pop knock knock knock knock knock knock knock knock knock knock knock knock Maybe 😜

Yeah, they might sound a bit like muddies on a 4wd, but they should hook up alot better. The ain't fitted yet, Jackie picked them up and they are sitting in the garage. I'm currently in Lismore pointing at things that are muddy and/or broken for the "team" to pick up, or, working out how to get cows out of the top of trees. It ain't pretty here. Tempe tyres told Jackie they are only for race cars, after she picked them up she called and asked WTF, LOL, she was having a moment, I'll buy her something shiny and all will be well again on my return. Comprise is another one of my middle names.

New boots for the Bogan machine Rear are 275/40 17 Toyo Proxes R888R, 100 AA A UTQG, some OK reviews from people using them as daily and drag tyres, supposed to be much better the MT S/S Drag radials in the wet, nearly as good as them in the dry, and better that my current RS4 in the dry, supposedly , time will tell, if they are good but wear out real fast, I might get a second set of 9.5 x 17 FR-1 for fair weather driving. $300 a tyre Fronts are 235/45 17 Toyo Proxes C1S (oem size), which will surfice as the car is a big fat boat where hitting corners hard is not a thing, they just need to not aqua plane me off the road when its raining, well that's the plan anyway, $155 a tyre

Crackle and Pop tunes bring all the boys to the yard. If that's your thing, and it's OK if it is, we are a tolerant society Well...... SNAP....

I just contacted the "alarm guy" that SAUNSW put me onto a few years ago. (Is there any information you cannot get from SAU?????.....Nope) They are the ones he recommends and so far every alarm he has ever installed has been issue free He is a little more expensive than the SCA unit, but, installed so I won't set my car on fire Not sure of brand name, and I'm not to fussed if he has cobbled it together himself, the tech isn't rocket science, well, it is to me......but all long at it has all the geeky bits, and works, and doesn't set the car on fire, I'm happy 4G network thingie $35 a year for the sim thing