The Bogan

T'was the pump rotor, again They believe there wasn't enough setback to allow for heat expansion, so they machined the drive hub on the converter to get the correct setback clearance The cast pumps are apparently fine, but, correct setback is critical, if, due to heat expansion, the drive hub applies pressure to the face of the pump gear, eventually it will break it So, basically a free fix, if you don't count the $300 on flat beds and the small amount of panic, I was having flashbacks to owning a modified Skyline Time for a interchiller

380kwatw in my old 33 GTST with the nismo coppermix Held fine The gearbox on the other hand, well, it was fine for cruising around, but with sticky tyres they didn't last long if you were actually using the power Start budgeting for a better transmission if you plan on "using" the power

10k km old Hankook RS4 tyres are rubbish for drag racing, rhey do make good sm9ke though Sorry, but that's all I got at the moment

The cost of acquiring and then building a T400, then the required fab work, for a 3 speed, with no overdrive, unless you sell a kidney, is up to around $15k (I priced up a build for drive in drive out before after I broke it last time) If it ain't the standard pump rotor that broke, which I can replace with a billet one cheaply, then options will need to be sussed out, like.... Option 1. If trans is lunched: Replace auto with a T56 trans, it may be the preferred option as it is alot cheaper compared to a fitting a T400, and it will easily hold the power the car is making Option 2. Get Craigs to fit a built T400 (lots of dollars and hard to justify for a daily hack) Option 3. Replace with another built 4l60e and pull the blower and just go back to NA Currently Option 1 is looking good

I use and recommend "old mate towing" everytime I get a transmission full of neutrals LOL At least it blew near work, 3 hrs ago we were in Canberra and Goulburn

There was a 32, 33, 34 and a 35 GTR's at WSID last Wednesday Maybe the owners are actually using their cars and not just putting them on a dyno for instalikes...... Or they are all broken......😜

Next

My IAT probe lives "under" the blower So heatsoak is something that is troublesome to work with MPVI2??? I'll look into it, but I wouldn't trust myself doing "black magic"

I had a AW11, t'was awesomeballs, not functional, had snap oversteer, but awesomeballs none the less

Some Kei car

Had a look at my rear wheel wells Inside: Enough room for a little more positive offset if required, with stock style suspension, I don't believe the "MCA comfort", that I was looking at last week, will work clearance wise, they use a coil over on the rear, as apposed to stock separate setup, and once there is 10mm more offset and 10mm more tyre heading towards the damper, well, I cannot see them fitting, spending $2.5k on them, only to not fit, would have made Mark punch Mark in the balls Outside, at stock "FE2" ride height. The spot that would rub, where the rear bumper meets the panel, currently has about 55-60mm between it and the 255/40 tyre that has a 102mm sidewall, a 275/40 has a 110mm sidewall, so roughly 45-50mm with the larger tyre (rough guestimation), so as long as it doesn't squat anymore than 45mm it shouldn't scrub Plastic inner will hit the bin if required I can add 10mm more "tyre poke" easily without actually getting any "mexican poke" If it does Scrub I'll start with a 5mm lower spring spacer that should give me maybe a extra 10mm rear ride height, if it works, but I hate it ride height wise, some +56 offest gold FR's will be on the cards, hopefully that will not be required, and as I won't be getting the MCA suspension now, which was a big chunk ($2.5k) of the "budgeted money to waste on stupid car stuff", that can be used elsewhere Disclaimer: all measurements are based off guestimations with a dusting of hopes and dreams So, the next time out (March??) should see the car with a 3.46 truetrack rearend, some 275/40 drag radials, and a little more boost #Kinkstaah I'll look into the car pulling timing from high IAT, when staging the car it was around 70°c IAT, I'm sure it was heatgun spec at half track If the car is pulling timing at 80°c then that would explain the low mph I might see if I can get the thermo that activates when the aircon is on, to be on even if the aircon isn't on, maybe even both thermos to activate off a switch...... or something...... meh, something that the tuner might be able to "black magic" on Currently, if the aircon is on, it makes "all of the condensation" and a huge pool of water were ever the car goes, fine for driving to the shops, or to take the covids down to Goulburn so Uncle Duncan doesn't need to venture into the big smoke for it, but, dropping water when your staging is "apparently" frowned upon

Meh, I was smoked by a fairly stock Track Hawk that did a 11.5 and 125 MPH It was the cars first real run so I'm not to concerned, it ran clean, drove home, and is GTG again After looking at a few calculators it seems that the 110 mph is typical for a RWD car weighing around 1800kg (the car with me and the boy) with around 320ishkw From my experience with my old R33 the 12.8 is all about no traction in the 60ft, which I can work on with rubber, gearing and suspension As for the MPH, I've still got a big safety factor dialed in for the transmission, and I can still add some more boost ( currently about 6-7 psi) with another 2 psi from a 5mm smaller front pulley, and possibly rear pulleys (both should see me around 10-12 psi) to get it closer to the power that the transmission guy said hw was happy for the transmission to see ,500 hp atw, or 380kw in new money I would rather cruise around in the old "slow" V8 than a VAG SUV 😜, we roll in different demographics, and there's heaps of faster cars than my old boat, there was actually quite a few Golf R's there, that with a few mods and a tune were running low 11's all night In saying that, if I did buy a SUV, the Track Hawk would be on the short list, they are weapons straight out of the box

Yeah, mph isn't good, it has a 315kwatw on a dyno sheet, which means nothing really I'll try and find some online calculator to see what my "hp" should be with et mph car weight stuff Maybe some DR, and more boost

Went to WSID with the boy, we did 4 runs total, the boy accompanied me as a passenger, which he loved The car run well enough, but traction was a major issue, the 255 Hankook RS4's were not up to the task, we tried 35-28-25-20 psi, nothing really helped much, and I only really bagged up the rear to clear the water off from the box, the track surface was average to say the least.......yeah, excuses excuses Best run was a 12.8 at 112 mhp, 60fters were abysmal, the best was a 2.6 I will add some drag radials to my new years shopping list I'm hoping some 275/40 17 Mickey Thompson Super Streets will fit my current 9.5" +46 rims and not rub, other wise I'm going yo need to factor in another set of FR 9.5" × 17 with the correct offset Thinking about it, as I type, I'm probably better of getting the drag radials mounted onto another set of the FR anyway In the end we had donuts and milkshakes, winning

LOL, yeap, guilty as charged Spent a few days hanging out with the daughter Lots of walking the river and eating lots of food She was actually flooded out of her home last week and needed to stay on town I did a responsible thing that any responsible parent would do, I shouted her some accommodation and then sent her out to take some pictures of our local walking track

https://mcasuspension.com/product/mca-pro-comfort-holden-commodore-vx-sedan/ Want

Excellent outcome I'm sure the thing is a blast

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/stop-hot-day-overheating-on-500hp-ls-engine/

What do you think the main cause for the car overheating Are your fans effective? Radiator size? Thermostat? Do you run the oem water pump or electric?

The reverse cowl won't help with the flow of the radiator/condenser stack Quite the opposite really, unless your just sitting in traffic The Blits bonnet I had on my old 33 on the other had did help What is going on under the car, like the undertray and its design, you might be able to look there My LS has got a few things going on it the stack, the rad, the condenser, a trans cooler and the WTA heat sink Stock radiator, stock thermostat stock waterpump Pre reverse cowl, even on the hottest days, sitting in traffic, the temp floats between 85-95°, with the aircon on, WTA temp was 45-50°, post reverse cowl it lives around 95°, and the supercharger WTA temp gets to 60° and takes alot longer to drop after a big hit

I think I don't like my bogan bonnet LOL I think I don't like it enough that I got a new old bonnet and have booked it in for the new bonnet to be paint matched Also doing front bar as well due to 20 years of bugs and chips Meh

A O2 sensor dropped its show bags, so....... New O2 sensors...... and water pump #becausewhynot Car still runs like a train from idle, and now idles again

When I hear "chook chaser" I think Ag bike or dirt bike

Because if it's black it looks #stock Needs more wrinkle

Buy a local car You see what your money is buying, and the cost mqy even end up typical to importing