The Bogan

Cool ambient temp air is king 🥶 I would assume that my OEM, slightly modified, airbox would be getting near on ambient temps from just behind the headlight and where there is a hole in the body work for clean air and some plate blocking "most" engine bay heat, there are some improvements that I'm looking at, but it's got a pretty clean fresh air flow The tricky thing with a top mount blower is getting an accurate IAT reading, actual IAT may be, say 40°c post the blower, but because of packaging and the resultant heat soak of the sensor, the ECM is seeing 60°c from the sensor.... Fun times 🥴

For me it isn't about making more power, it is about keeping the power I have I believe my ECM starts pulling timing from 50°c IAT and over that it pulls more pretty hard I'm stagging at the drags with 70°c IAT, at the big end I'm at 80°c Hence the car goes like a cut snake below "around" 50°c IAT, from 60-70°c IAT it pulls timing that hard that it is obviously noticeable from the drivers seat that the power has dropped its showbags I don't believe a interchiller would be on any use on a circuit car, maybe, I don'tknow, and for "big" powered drag cars a reservoir is required to ensure that there is enough low temp coolant available for a full run A Interchiller is just like an ice box, the benefit of this is you don't need to replace the ice, just idling down the return road will bring the coolant temps back down For the street, it will always be super cold. There are also ways to add efficiency to my 20 year old AC system by replacing and adding modern condensers, this also helps drop the intercooler coolant temp, and is relatively cheap to achieve 😀

For NA I couldn't see the cost being justified, you are just dealing with ambient temp and "possibly" a small bit of heat transfer But, I've done a little reading into IAT, CAI and heat transfer The IAT varies greatly dependant on the sensor location, and I cannot really see the air being "heat soaked" for the fraction of a second that the air is travelling from the CAI to intake valves of an NA engine. 5.7 x (6000 rpm ÷ 2) = 17100 litres of air a minute at 6000rpm (very roughly) #efficiency Thats 17100 ÷ 60 = 285 litres a second is getting sucked down its throat These rough calcs do assume 100% efficiency though, but even at half the volume, that is still near 150 litres a second. What size is your intake and how long is it? I'm guestimating that the air speed is exactly "really really bloody fast", too fast to heat up the ambient air to any noticeable degree.... For reference my post blower AIT goes up pretty much with the coolant temp, to settle at around 50°c, when its sitting in traffic or after a pull it gets to around 70°c, but after I shut the car down, it goes from 50°c to 70°c fairly quickly, but once the car is running and moving again it slowly comes down to 50°c See pic for where my IAT sensor is in relation to the engine, it is basically bolted to the head, and this is why the spacers "lower" the IAT temp, it is really only stopping heat soak from affecting the sensor, actual IAT hasn't changed at all, from my research spacers alone seems to lower IAT between 10 - 20°c, the interchiller can get another -20° c Meh, math and science make my head hurt

My beastie isn't a race car, my aircon is always on anyway, so cruising around will always have low IAT as the chiller is, ummm, chilling. The issues come when the car is at full throttle, the AC shuts off and then once the chilled coolant has gone thru the wta intercooler it starts to warm up But, it will last a no problem for a roll. Ive chatted to a few people with them and they have nothing but good reviews. They recommend getting a larger header/coolant tank for the WTA cooler if you want to keep sub freezing coolant for a whole 1/4 mile pull though, although only a coulpe of cars actually had the larger tanks, and the cars that didn't said that the AIT only raised a bit at the end of a run, and it only took a couple of minutes heading back down the return track to get the coolant temps down super low again I'm not to fussed though, as long as my IAT is happy enough to not pull timing. It looks like weird science, and I'm all for weird science

I'm just waiting for a Spiro to give me call, I'll drop some coin so he can gather the required parts, then when everything arrives I'll drop the car off for some...... And by "when everything arrives" doesn't count for other random bits that may be required mid install.......as usual 🙄 Bloody cars

I had to cancel my booking at Autotech to get the thermal spacers installed because of work, meh, work pays the bills, but whilst I've been away I've had a little down time here and there, so, .........Idle hands are the devils play thing. I've bit the proverbial bullet and will get the interchiller done at the same time. There isn't alot of options brand wise, but Autotech has installed a few FI-interchillers with some really good results. I'm not looking for more power, it's just to keep the IAT under control, and by under control I mean possibly below ambient IAT, dependant on how deep I want to go with additional condensers, other "stuff" and coin https://fiinterchillers.com/

I think it's more pop pop crackle crackle pop knock knock knock knock knock knock knock knock knock knock knock knock Maybe 😜

Yeah, they might sound a bit like muddies on a 4wd, but they should hook up alot better. The ain't fitted yet, Jackie picked them up and they are sitting in the garage. I'm currently in Lismore pointing at things that are muddy and/or broken for the "team" to pick up, or, working out how to get cows out of the top of trees. It ain't pretty here. Tempe tyres told Jackie they are only for race cars, after she picked them up she called and asked WTF, LOL, she was having a moment, I'll buy her something shiny and all will be well again on my return. Comprise is another one of my middle names.

New boots for the Bogan machine Rear are 275/40 17 Toyo Proxes R888R, 100 AA A UTQG, some OK reviews from people using them as daily and drag tyres, supposed to be much better the MT S/S Drag radials in the wet, nearly as good as them in the dry, and better that my current RS4 in the dry, supposedly , time will tell, if they are good but wear out real fast, I might get a second set of 9.5 x 17 FR-1 for fair weather driving. $300 a tyre Fronts are 235/45 17 Toyo Proxes C1S (oem size), which will surfice as the car is a big fat boat where hitting corners hard is not a thing, they just need to not aqua plane me off the road when its raining, well that's the plan anyway, $155 a tyre

Crackle and Pop tunes bring all the boys to the yard. If that's your thing, and it's OK if it is, we are a tolerant society Well...... SNAP....

I just contacted the "alarm guy" that SAUNSW put me onto a few years ago. (Is there any information you cannot get from SAU?????.....Nope) They are the ones he recommends and so far every alarm he has ever installed has been issue free He is a little more expensive than the SCA unit, but, installed so I won't set my car on fire Not sure of brand name, and I'm not to fussed if he has cobbled it together himself, the tech isn't rocket science, well, it is to me......but all long at it has all the geeky bits, and works, and doesn't set the car on fire, I'm happy 4G network thingie $35 a year for the sim thing

Got any recommendations on trackers mate? I was looking at something at Supercheap for $300, and then I assume it's a phone plan thingie?? Cheers

Have you checked your dash vs GPS The up to -10% thing is a factor for error that the manufacturer factors in They are not allowed to have a speedo reading of 100 kph, but actual speed of 101 kph So the error is -0% + 10% I believe I believe this takes into consideration variations of tyre sizes with different models, and tyre wear

Excellent result

"If you cannot afford to buy 2 GTR's, you cannot afford to modify 1 GTR" ...I think #Pigazz threw those wise words out 15 odd years ago, when GTR's were worth $15-20k

The old girl is just about to hit 140k km, so near on 25k km since I got it in April 2020 And whilst the initial plan was to only keep it till I found something better, it has grown on me, to the point of I cannot see myself selling it Even Jackie has come around and enjoys going on long country drives, although she does sleep through alot of the driving, it's just like cruising on a comfy lounge chair I am truly owning the bogan V8 cruise ship lifestyle

Nope Need height for gutter jumping

Stuck the suspension in 4wd gasser mode go on Guard to center of hub Front 365 Rear 355 Clears all the speed humps around work, no scrapping on the driveway at the girls Dampening set to 10 clicks from full hard, may soften it up a bit more though Car needs s wash bad

Slightly less bogan without the reverse cowl Paint match of the bonnet and front bar by Fineline is spot on, again Also sold the old bonnet with the cowl pretty much straight away, which was nice, as it triggered me every time I looked at it in the shed In other news: lowering the engine to fit the spacers looks like a combination of lowering the engine mounts by 5mm and the K-frame by 5mm, this will give me all the clearances required and not screw with rhe steering geometry Well, that's the plan

New suspension arrived Just need time to fit, maybe this weekend, maybe next Made in the Republic of China, otherwise known as Taiwan, so you know is good

Do it, what could possibly go wrong Luckly you didn't pay for the car that is going to get hacked up and ruined Well, not actually ruined if your a 15 year old boy going for other 15 year old boys instalikes, oh, and also not worried about resale Meh Just do it

As a wise man once said, "use ya brain" People have given their view as you asked them to, you cannot ask the same question and expect different answers, what you had planned was a poorly though out idea, even before talking about it being a scam But hey, your 15, so you'll be sweet

No

My commodore LS1 has a stage 1 cam, my RB25 had a stage 2 cam, I believe the Ford Coyote engine has a stage 4 cam, or was that the total amount of cams an engine has???? Sorry I blame marketing and the youth of today for their "stage" builds You really need to know the cam specs for your application, a turbo cam should have different specs to a NA or Supercharged cam, as well as what you use the car for, is it a race car that will live at high rpm, or a street car that requires manners down low, big turbo or small turbo, what gears you run can come onto the equation as well Incorrect cam choice based of "stages" sounds like a recipe for disaster There are some knowledgeable people here, "I'm NOT one of them", but in the end I would talk to a "reputable" engine builder with your requirements and make your cam choice based of actual induction type, vehicles usage and all the other technical magic that can actually help, not picking a "stage" cam based of a random person on the interwebs recommendation https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.motortrend.com/how-to/how-to-pick-the-right-camshaft/amp/ Have fun, have a plan, have a budget (and then double your budget)