The Bogan

Ref: my above post, LOL I really should have researched what a 10mm lower rear bush spacer actually does The 10mm spacer acually raises the rear by around 20mm, the geometry gods are laughing at me now, I do clear the driveway now, by alot I'll pull it apart again and remove the thin spacer, which is about 6mm, this should lower it about 10mm, hopefully..... To get the correct rake back I've just ordered some front 6mm upper spacers that should add 10mm ride height to the front Hopefully this should correct the rake, well, maybe.....???? I would prefer a bit more height at the front to help traction, worse case scenario is I get some 8mm spacers later down the track, maybe......???? Anyways, the bush spacers are cheap, and the rear is a cake walk, the front on the other takes twice as long Meh, test and adjust, it's not like I can do anything apart from working on the car anyway

Got bored and found some 10mm whiteline spring bushes when I cleaned out the shed, so I spent a hour chucking them in When I originally put in the new FE2 springs in, to stop the car from scapping everywhere, it still scrapped the exhaust tip when driving off the driveway with the kids in the back, so as I do, I bought them, then forgot I bought them I just stacked them under the original ones, hopefully now the extra 10mm stops the exhaust tip scrapping when I drive off the driveway when the kids are in the back Either way I got a little spanner therapy

On a side note: I also have the VF HSV mid section and rear boxes, sans the bimodal valves sitting in a shed at work if anyone wants it, for free of course Apparently it's a easy little upgrade for the VE-VF SS If no one grabs it it will hit the scrap bin shortly

The boy has been asking when WSID is back open, I promised him a run down the strip in it When it opens I'll post up a bit of a skid pic and some ET/MPH to appease the masses, whether ya'all are happy or not with it will be up to contention As for street skids, I can pretty much guarantee that if I decided to lay some big 11's down the road the constabulary will magically appear in my location and kick me in the balls, hard, my risk aversion to infringements is quite high, and as the boy who would be taking the pics is currently studying to join the enemy, I mean NSW police, I cannot risk him getting pinned doing dumb shit either In other news a mate at work just put a full engine back exhaust on his VF HSV sedan and was going to leave his old exhaust at the shop that installed it, he asked if I wanted any bits so I grabbed the HSV short tri-y headers and cats They are now stored in the shed, covered with WD40 and wrapped in plastic I may end up putting them on, I still want to "fix up" the insulation on the current headers, if these do fit I can paint and wrap these puppies and swap them out, plus from talking the tuner, I can easily pass emissions with a good tune and the OEM HSV cats without losing any real power

As no parts that I ordered arrived I mounted my emergency tool kit in the shed

Have you looked into the Astra electric power steering mod, if you have the space that is https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/how-to-install-astra-electric-power-steering-on-a-vy-ss.255811/

Disclaimer: everything I do only makes sense to the voices in my head

Got bored at work, sooooo.......conducted some preliminaries to mad bogan chop chop Centered the scoop, took some measurements and made some reference points I'll get 5 x 110mm holes in easy, which is heaps of area, so it actually should do something, what will later be determend when it's fitted and I steal some wool from the Mrs knitting basket for some wool tufting at the opening of the scoop, it's either a inny or outy, hopefully a outy Previous testing looks positive for an outy though Also fitted the windcreen squirters to the wipers as the scoop covers the original ones in the bonnet, they work a treat and work way better that the ones on the bonnet, which was a win, I do need to get some small zip ties to tidy it up but that will be when I'm allowed out, unless I can find some at work For the meantime I'm waiting on some black vinyl wrap so I can cover the scoop until I can get the car to the paint shop, I'm also waiting for some 5mm well nuts to fit the scoop to the bonnet, I'm rolling with 3 a side, hopefully they turns up soon The well nuts have a 1.5mm lip which will give the bonnet a "little" standoff to avoid the scoop craking, they are the things that motorcycle screens use, I tested "the look" with some blue tack squished down to 1.5mm and I think the gap should look fine as the scoop is really well made and the fit to the bonnet is excellent and without variations Hopefully next week will be chop chop fitting done Farkin chop chop

It was noisy on and off before the blower went on It gets worse after a big hit, sometimes it's not bad, sometimes it's bad Last week the thing got real noisy just driving along, I could hear it clearly from inside the cab, I pulled over, popped the bonnet then shut it down, when I restarted it and it went away....I was like WTF, so off it goes to the shop I prefer to err on the side of caution If by chance there is a issue, and say my rockers have worn, or the rod length is wrong, or something something....... it could possibly cause a catastrophic failure I've seen bent rods and rockers drop their bearings on other cars, the car only has 130k km on the engine, which has good comp and doesn't have any blowby, the last thing it need is for the valve train to drop its showbags and lunch the engine I've heard alot of noisy LS engines, this thing is louder I'm happy to drop some cash to someone who knows what they're doing for my peice of mind

Yeah, my mate has stainless headers, brand????, I have the mild steel pacemakers You can still hear his injectors firing away, and a little from the valve train, more of a buzzing sound, but mine is alot louder, and sort of a different metallicy sound coming from around cylinders 4 and 6 In the end it might be a costly procedure with no advantage, or, something is "off" and we fix something that actually needs fixing "Apparently" heavier aftermarket springs, I've got PAC doubles, can create more noise from the valves shutting harder due to the cams ramp rate, or, something...., they can also screw with the bearings on the stock roller trunnions Hell, I may have a bent pushrod.....???? Farknose I talked with Spiro from autotech about replacing the OEM roller type or bush bearings if my current rockers are FUBAR, I also voiced my concern about the bush bearings IRT oiling and longevity to which he stated that he has used, ??? bushes, I cannot recall the brand he said, but he said he has used them on alot of engines and has never had an issue with them, from street cars to drag cars They are only a few hundred bucks for the bush kit, and seeing though that everything will be apart I though farkit, give them a go And pushrods aren't really expensive either if I need either straight ones, or a different length Hopefully after it's done the only real noise that the deadener needs to deal with is from the injectors, maybe???

I would go OEM Are you willing to trust an aftermarket wheel with a "custom fitted" airbag to not kill you if it goes off Does anyone else in your family drive the car? When a explosion is going off 400-500mm away from your face.......

Pointless modification #24 and 25 Quote: Idle hands are the devils workshop When this lockdown is over and I can get the car transported I will be sending the cruise ship into Autotech to check my valve train, I'm not confident that my lifter preload is right, or something....., so I'm geting them to check preload, pushrod length and the condition of my rockers Why....my mate at work has a typical cam and springs to mine in his LS1 and it is significantly quiter, his still has the slight sewing machine sounds of a LS1, mainly from the injectors, but mine is much louder, standing in front of both cars mine sounds like a diesel compared to his..... And as my fancy new OEM style underbonnet sound deadener is about 15-20mm thick, and doesn't sit tight against the frame everywhere it is being damaged by the blower So, "carbuilders" received some business There premium 5.5mm underbonnet stuff, I've seen some installed on a mates car and it excellent stuff, I'll use the OEM style one as a template to keep it looking ridgy didgy This should also help alot with neatness when I cut some (definitely 4, possibly 5)100mm diameter holes, for my bogan spec VK style scoop, with my trust hole saw I've already removed the old "carbuilder" foam which was originally under the OEM style underbonnet deadener to try and get clearance, which didn't work, the orange dots are definite holes, the blue is a maybe as it part of the frame I'm not sure when it will go in or the ordered deadener stuff arrives though, both the car and bike are on battery tenders parked up for the foreseeable future, stupid Covid

Pointless mod #23 My mad bogan spec bonnet scoop finally arrived Over the next couple of weeks there will be lots of trial fits and some hole saw action on the bonnet, I will not be touching the internal frame at all to keep some structural integrity Fixtures will be some m5 motorcycle windsceen well nuts to fix it to the bonnet, some paint and then pinch weld will cover the sheet steel after the hole cutting to clean the look up a bit, the bonnet liner may need a trip to the trimmers to sew some edging around the holes My plan is to give it some black paint and hope this lockdown **** is over soon so it can go in to my local paint joint for some real paint and get the whole bonnet colour matched

Covid, you can't bring me down https://youtu.be/nxcJW6bs5os

Everything is fixable The only person who could quote this with any accuracy would be a smash repairer But, with the stupid prices these things are going for it may well be worth the outlay, which I assume would be large, even for a fix with basic respray Or, better still, give it to me.....

As I was bored at work, and possibly somewhere on the spectrum I had some of the stuff I used to cover the headers left over. It's pretty toasty inside the engine bay, hopefully this "may" help with the radiant heat on the cooland lines and reservoir And running my WTA lines inline with my 90° coolant lines wouldn't have been helping either Will it be noticable? I'll see gow it goes next outing. Either way it got me away from actually doing real work EKO TFIF

The rise in their cost has increased the parts prices, owning a few "warm" Skylines is the shed is like money in the bank If you want your stolen parts back Facebook market place and Gumtree are apparently the place to find them And with every man and his dog rebuilding them.......it's an open market for parts My mate is a copper and theft of all the older popular models is rampant apparently, they have some task force thing going on but I'm not sure of its success, the theft of old cars isn't high on their to do list I assume

Nothing to see here........ Quietly googles interchillers........again...........yeah, nah, the car is boss for what I use it for and it seriously doesn't need any more power For the occasional street pull I cannot see there being any real reason As for unnecessary modifications, well, there is always an electric power steering pump from an Astra, and/or electric water pump, both are not necessary, but for some strange reason I keep googling them........ It's like/is a disease......LOL

What's wrong with interchillers?

But strangely those temps seem to be a thing when it comes to PD blowers, I initially freaked out but the tuner said it is typical, then rang Harrop who said it's typical, then Googled it....google said it's typical and/or that the sensor might heat soak because of it's location, meh, the car is perfect for what I want so And I knew going in that a PD isn't as efficient as turbos IRT IAT, but I'm happy to compromise a bit, the car goes like a cut snake from idle Craigs suggested if I really want trans temp to get a bung tapped into the pan for the most accurate temp, I might get this done next trans service

Bugger The trans doesn't in fact have a trans temp sensor, no trans temp for me thru the OBD2....spoke to Craigs about this and they believe my temps would be fine anyway as the trans has a big pan and a big air to oil cooler, I asked about if cold fluid temps would cause an issue and they said as long as the engine is at temp the trans will be fine. Meh, the scanner showed no codes though, which was nice I'm still happy with what it actually can do Currently it got volts, coolant temp, IAT and boost I wish I had this when 1. My alternator died, or 2. When my battery died 6 months later.. IAT goes from about 50°c cruising to 80°c during a long hard pull down the local strip at work, hot yes, but hot IAT is a thing with a PD supercharger, you cannot really tell the difference in performance and the ECU black magic deals with it anyway, #notaracecar, soooooo, if my IAT vary from this I may have a coolant flow issue to the W2A intercooler This tells me that a PD supercharger is great for the street and strip, where a 5 to 10 second hit is all that is needed, but it would be rubbish for the track where you are constantly on the loud pedal, I would assume heat soak would be rampant after 1/2 lap at your local motorsport park, and possibly the ssme for towing...maybe..... Coolant temps are a fairly fixed 93° c once up to temp And boost is boost, unlike a turbo which can overboost, the PD blower either blows, or it doesn't, and of it ain't blowing it's because it's dropped a belt

Yeap, what could go wrong

New speed hole tools

😭 I just want to know my trans temp and IAT 😭 As for tuning, I can barely log on to the interwebs, let alone play with that black magic tuning thing I can see it now. "I am going to try tuning my car"........NEK MINNIT.......

My curiosity to coin ratio only extends so far $1500 to see my trans temp and AIT, yeah nah Plus that AIM dash would look so out of place in the old bogan cruise ship