The Bogan

😀

I wish they made a bonnet for mine like the vented one I had on the 33, that worked a treat As for the the cowl sucking in air, yeah I new it wound do it, but I didn't think it would effect the IAT and coolant temp so much, with only the 5x 100mm ○ holes it wasn't noticeable, but after the chop chop, well, it's farked After a drive today, the IAT got up to 70°, that is a 20° increase to what it was 2 days ago doing the same run, and the coolant never went lower than 97°c I checked the WTA intercooler pump, and the thermo fans because I thought that I may have invertantly unplugged something, but no, it was all because of stupid Luckly the car is going into the paint shop next week to unfarkithe bonnet #Duncan the "wool tuft" was actually fluoro pink string line, it was magnificent 👌

Yeah.......it's going soon It's not the first time that my good idea has turned to stupid And it won't be the last

Funny story The above added ventilation has increased my IAT by 5°c and my coolant, which typically sits at about 90°c, was at 97°c After doing some hasty wool tuft testing, it seems kow when at speeds over 40kph the reverse cowl works very well at sucking in air, pressurising the engine compartment, and reducing the efficiency of radiator stack quite well I assume my trans temps would have raised as well as the air to oil trans coolers efficiency would have been effected as well So, lucky I have the spare bonnet that will be getting the frame modified to give me some clearance Marks bad idea #943: Fitting a reverse cowl scoop LOL 🤯

Been there done that, got the oil stains to prove it In other news Spacers and a thermal blanket have been ordered, Issue: not enough clearance So fark it....chop chop time So, as I have a spare bonnet anyway, which will be receiving some professional love next month, not Mark love with a power tool, I decided to get the grinder with a cutting disc out and on it to make some clearance myself...LOL Power tools are fun Lucky OEM bonnets are cheap 30 minutes later......... I'll grab some pinchweld to tidy up the edges tomorrow

Apparently the roof of my car was a great spot for a couple of crows to hang out, their hopping and bobbing left a heap of light scratches in the clear on the roof So, some Meguiars ultimate compound and my Ryobi dual action cordless polisher made light work of it after a good wash, all scratches are removed Then I spent the next 600 hours polishing off by hand the Meguiar's Gold Class Carnauba plus Paste Wax for a wicked deep shine I usually use liquid wax because it is quick and easy, but I had a day to kill so it got the boss treatment And yes, walking back to the car and seeing 2 big black crows jumping around on the roof made Mark mad Stupid nature 🤨 🤣

When was the lsdt time your bonnet was at 200°c I put some under my bonnet and it good to go I actually used a naked flame to seal the edges after trimming

https://www.carbuilders.com.au/premium-under-bonnet

If I was to do it again I would most likely go turbo, so much easier to pick and chose how much power you want where you want it, add or remove boost, limit boost yadda yadda yadda Me, in the end the PD is great fun on the street and I love driving it around and giving a hard time as much as I can

And the only way for me to do that is: Fitting spacers, so I need to keep the reverse cowl and chop chop the hood for clearance And then install a interchiller This is the only way I believe that I may get close to not pulling timing at the strip And the strip is the only place where I notice it I can be cruising around the streets at 50°c and if I give it a big hit I don't notice any loss of power, even after a nice long hit which gets me to ludicrous speed, it just keeps pulling and changing gears On the strip it has just heatsoaked to the point of no return As a street car I cannot fault it, playing drag racer.....well it's breaking my balls

It would need to be done and dusted prior to staging Dropping any water on the track is a no no

This is why I wanted to go back to the OEM bonnet Plus there was really no change to coolant or IAT with the reverse cowl when the car is moving Maybe I just don't take the car to the drags, it goes great everywhere else, it just hates life at half track after sitting in a queue, doing a burnout and then staging I believe mine starts pulling timing faily hard from 70°c, I was staging at 70°c So do I drop alot of coin so I can occasionally go drag racing at WSID???? I want to, but.... Maybe I should wait till I've sorted my rear end and see how that goes Maybe I shouldn't do back to back runs at the drags and let the car cool down and stage at a lower temp Maybe I should stop treating my street cars like want to be race cars

The blits FRP vented bonnet I had my 33 was pretty good The vent was just after the radiator Bonnet wasn't light though Like dis...>

I'm hoping to fix it with gearing to start with, well, a bit anyway, if I can get it to shift thru 1-2-3 and not hit a limiter when it is wheel spinning then all is well It has a large PWR trans cooler so trans temps should be fine I do periodical checks on my trans fluid, it is always nice and clean and smells like trans fluid, not that burnt redy brown colour or that burnt chemical smell from cooked trans fluid In other IAT related news: To fit a interchiller on the HTV2300- VX SS combination, and for it to work efficiently, I need to fit thermal spacers, hell, for the HTV2300 to work efficiently even without a interchiller it needs thermal spacers. Not a big issue, you would think, and not that expensive, BUT, and it's a big but and I cannot lie, after alot more measuring up, the blower is now already slightly touching the underbonnet insulation The only way to fit the thermal spacers is to chop out the section under the cowl, see pic This highlights another issue, I was going to go back to a "stock" bonnet, well.....that ain't happening now Lessons learnt: don't get a downward discharge blower like mine, if I was going to do it again I would still go a blower, but an upwards discharge like on the LSA or a Magnuson TL;DR: Dooh, time to get the cutting discs out, chop chop on my loverly new underbonnet insulation and then pinchweld the world.....again LOL

3.07

The setback was not the only issue During road tuning the trans they found that it would hit the limiter in 1st and 2nd because the computer wasn't fast enough to shift at full throttle No amount of tickling the pressures or shift points helped The PD blower is just making to much torque down low and the 3.91 rear is killing it Tall gears will help with this, so now I'm trying to workout what gears My bolt in options are: 2.87-3.07-3.46-3.73 I'm looking at the 3.07

Single

DCT????? Because they never break and are cheap to fix????? Nah to either, if I need something the choice with be between a built T400 with tall gears (most likely) or T56 magnum

I would be wary about removing a safety feature, mainly for future inspections as well as insurance liability I hadn't driven a car without ABS for years, it was an eye opening event when I locked up my old non-abs MX5 mid corner because a car cut infront of me, where the ABS would have cut in and I would have been able to turn hard and still be on the brakes hard, the car just locked wheels and I was a passenger, I almost T-boned the other car Whilst the ABS might not look sporty, it's great when you hammer the brakes mid corner

Is the car registered and street driven?

T'was the pump rotor, again They believe there wasn't enough setback to allow for heat expansion, so they machined the drive hub on the converter to get the correct setback clearance The cast pumps are apparently fine, but, correct setback is critical, if, due to heat expansion, the drive hub applies pressure to the face of the pump gear, eventually it will break it So, basically a free fix, if you don't count the $300 on flat beds and the small amount of panic, I was having flashbacks to owning a modified Skyline Time for a interchiller

380kwatw in my old 33 GTST with the nismo coppermix Held fine The gearbox on the other hand, well, it was fine for cruising around, but with sticky tyres they didn't last long if you were actually using the power Start budgeting for a better transmission if you plan on "using" the power

10k km old Hankook RS4 tyres are rubbish for drag racing, rhey do make good sm9ke though Sorry, but that's all I got at the moment

The cost of acquiring and then building a T400, then the required fab work, for a 3 speed, with no overdrive, unless you sell a kidney, is up to around $15k (I priced up a build for drive in drive out before after I broke it last time) If it ain't the standard pump rotor that broke, which I can replace with a billet one cheaply, then options will need to be sussed out, like.... Option 1. If trans is lunched: Replace auto with a T56 trans, it may be the preferred option as it is alot cheaper compared to a fitting a T400, and it will easily hold the power the car is making Option 2. Get Craigs to fit a built T400 (lots of dollars and hard to justify for a daily hack) Option 3. Replace with another built 4l60e and pull the blower and just go back to NA Currently Option 1 is looking good

I use and recommend "old mate towing" everytime I get a transmission full of neutrals LOL At least it blew near work, 3 hrs ago we were in Canberra and Goulburn