The Bogan

This is why I wanted to go back to the OEM bonnet Plus there was really no change to coolant or IAT with the reverse cowl when the car is moving Maybe I just don't take the car to the drags, it goes great everywhere else, it just hates life at half track after sitting in a queue, doing a burnout and then staging I believe mine starts pulling timing faily hard from 70°c, I was staging at 70°c So do I drop alot of coin so I can occasionally go drag racing at WSID???? I want to, but.... Maybe I should wait till I've sorted my rear end and see how that goes Maybe I shouldn't do back to back runs at the drags and let the car cool down and stage at a lower temp Maybe I should stop treating my street cars like want to be race cars

The blits FRP vented bonnet I had my 33 was pretty good The vent was just after the radiator Bonnet wasn't light though Like dis...>

I'm hoping to fix it with gearing to start with, well, a bit anyway, if I can get it to shift thru 1-2-3 and not hit a limiter when it is wheel spinning then all is well It has a large PWR trans cooler so trans temps should be fine I do periodical checks on my trans fluid, it is always nice and clean and smells like trans fluid, not that burnt redy brown colour or that burnt chemical smell from cooked trans fluid In other IAT related news: To fit a interchiller on the HTV2300- VX SS combination, and for it to work efficiently, I need to fit thermal spacers, hell, for the HTV2300 to work efficiently even without a interchiller it needs thermal spacers. Not a big issue, you would think, and not that expensive, BUT, and it's a big but and I cannot lie, after alot more measuring up, the blower is now already slightly touching the underbonnet insulation The only way to fit the thermal spacers is to chop out the section under the cowl, see pic This highlights another issue, I was going to go back to a "stock" bonnet, well.....that ain't happening now Lessons learnt: don't get a downward discharge blower like mine, if I was going to do it again I would still go a blower, but an upwards discharge like on the LSA or a Magnuson TL;DR: Dooh, time to get the cutting discs out, chop chop on my loverly new underbonnet insulation and then pinchweld the world.....again LOL

3.07

The setback was not the only issue During road tuning the trans they found that it would hit the limiter in 1st and 2nd because the computer wasn't fast enough to shift at full throttle No amount of tickling the pressures or shift points helped The PD blower is just making to much torque down low and the 3.91 rear is killing it Tall gears will help with this, so now I'm trying to workout what gears My bolt in options are: 2.87-3.07-3.46-3.73 I'm looking at the 3.07

Single

DCT????? Because they never break and are cheap to fix????? Nah to either, if I need something the choice with be between a built T400 with tall gears (most likely) or T56 magnum

I would be wary about removing a safety feature, mainly for future inspections as well as insurance liability I hadn't driven a car without ABS for years, it was an eye opening event when I locked up my old non-abs MX5 mid corner because a car cut infront of me, where the ABS would have cut in and I would have been able to turn hard and still be on the brakes hard, the car just locked wheels and I was a passenger, I almost T-boned the other car Whilst the ABS might not look sporty, it's great when you hammer the brakes mid corner

Is the car registered and street driven?

T'was the pump rotor, again They believe there wasn't enough setback to allow for heat expansion, so they machined the drive hub on the converter to get the correct setback clearance The cast pumps are apparently fine, but, correct setback is critical, if, due to heat expansion, the drive hub applies pressure to the face of the pump gear, eventually it will break it So, basically a free fix, if you don't count the $300 on flat beds and the small amount of panic, I was having flashbacks to owning a modified Skyline Time for a interchiller

380kwatw in my old 33 GTST with the nismo coppermix Held fine The gearbox on the other hand, well, it was fine for cruising around, but with sticky tyres they didn't last long if you were actually using the power Start budgeting for a better transmission if you plan on "using" the power

10k km old Hankook RS4 tyres are rubbish for drag racing, rhey do make good sm9ke though Sorry, but that's all I got at the moment

The cost of acquiring and then building a T400, then the required fab work, for a 3 speed, with no overdrive, unless you sell a kidney, is up to around $15k (I priced up a build for drive in drive out before after I broke it last time) If it ain't the standard pump rotor that broke, which I can replace with a billet one cheaply, then options will need to be sussed out, like.... Option 1. If trans is lunched: Replace auto with a T56 trans, it may be the preferred option as it is alot cheaper compared to a fitting a T400, and it will easily hold the power the car is making Option 2. Get Craigs to fit a built T400 (lots of dollars and hard to justify for a daily hack) Option 3. Replace with another built 4l60e and pull the blower and just go back to NA Currently Option 1 is looking good

I use and recommend "old mate towing" everytime I get a transmission full of neutrals LOL At least it blew near work, 3 hrs ago we were in Canberra and Goulburn

There was a 32, 33, 34 and a 35 GTR's at WSID last Wednesday Maybe the owners are actually using their cars and not just putting them on a dyno for instalikes...... Or they are all broken......😜

Next

My IAT probe lives "under" the blower So heatsoak is something that is troublesome to work with MPVI2??? I'll look into it, but I wouldn't trust myself doing "black magic"

I had a AW11, t'was awesomeballs, not functional, had snap oversteer, but awesomeballs none the less

Some Kei car

Had a look at my rear wheel wells Inside: Enough room for a little more positive offset if required, with stock style suspension, I don't believe the "MCA comfort", that I was looking at last week, will work clearance wise, they use a coil over on the rear, as apposed to stock separate setup, and once there is 10mm more offset and 10mm more tyre heading towards the damper, well, I cannot see them fitting, spending $2.5k on them, only to not fit, would have made Mark punch Mark in the balls Outside, at stock "FE2" ride height. The spot that would rub, where the rear bumper meets the panel, currently has about 55-60mm between it and the 255/40 tyre that has a 102mm sidewall, a 275/40 has a 110mm sidewall, so roughly 45-50mm with the larger tyre (rough guestimation), so as long as it doesn't squat anymore than 45mm it shouldn't scrub Plastic inner will hit the bin if required I can add 10mm more "tyre poke" easily without actually getting any "mexican poke" If it does Scrub I'll start with a 5mm lower spring spacer that should give me maybe a extra 10mm rear ride height, if it works, but I hate it ride height wise, some +56 offest gold FR's will be on the cards, hopefully that will not be required, and as I won't be getting the MCA suspension now, which was a big chunk ($2.5k) of the "budgeted money to waste on stupid car stuff", that can be used elsewhere Disclaimer: all measurements are based off guestimations with a dusting of hopes and dreams So, the next time out (March??) should see the car with a 3.46 truetrack rearend, some 275/40 drag radials, and a little more boost #Kinkstaah I'll look into the car pulling timing from high IAT, when staging the car it was around 70°c IAT, I'm sure it was heatgun spec at half track If the car is pulling timing at 80°c then that would explain the low mph I might see if I can get the thermo that activates when the aircon is on, to be on even if the aircon isn't on, maybe even both thermos to activate off a switch...... or something...... meh, something that the tuner might be able to "black magic" on Currently, if the aircon is on, it makes "all of the condensation" and a huge pool of water were ever the car goes, fine for driving to the shops, or to take the covids down to Goulburn so Uncle Duncan doesn't need to venture into the big smoke for it, but, dropping water when your staging is "apparently" frowned upon

Meh, I was smoked by a fairly stock Track Hawk that did a 11.5 and 125 MPH It was the cars first real run so I'm not to concerned, it ran clean, drove home, and is GTG again After looking at a few calculators it seems that the 110 mph is typical for a RWD car weighing around 1800kg (the car with me and the boy) with around 320ishkw From my experience with my old R33 the 12.8 is all about no traction in the 60ft, which I can work on with rubber, gearing and suspension As for the MPH, I've still got a big safety factor dialed in for the transmission, and I can still add some more boost ( currently about 6-7 psi) with another 2 psi from a 5mm smaller front pulley, and possibly rear pulleys (both should see me around 10-12 psi) to get it closer to the power that the transmission guy said hw was happy for the transmission to see ,500 hp atw, or 380kw in new money I would rather cruise around in the old "slow" V8 than a VAG SUV 😜, we roll in different demographics, and there's heaps of faster cars than my old boat, there was actually quite a few Golf R's there, that with a few mods and a tune were running low 11's all night In saying that, if I did buy a SUV, the Track Hawk would be on the short list, they are weapons straight out of the box

Yeah, mph isn't good, it has a 315kwatw on a dyno sheet, which means nothing really I'll try and find some online calculator to see what my "hp" should be with et mph car weight stuff Maybe some DR, and more boost

Went to WSID with the boy, we did 4 runs total, the boy accompanied me as a passenger, which he loved The car run well enough, but traction was a major issue, the 255 Hankook RS4's were not up to the task, we tried 35-28-25-20 psi, nothing really helped much, and I only really bagged up the rear to clear the water off from the box, the track surface was average to say the least.......yeah, excuses excuses Best run was a 12.8 at 112 mhp, 60fters were abysmal, the best was a 2.6 I will add some drag radials to my new years shopping list I'm hoping some 275/40 17 Mickey Thompson Super Streets will fit my current 9.5" +46 rims and not rub, other wise I'm going yo need to factor in another set of FR 9.5" × 17 with the correct offset Thinking about it, as I type, I'm probably better of getting the drag radials mounted onto another set of the FR anyway In the end we had donuts and milkshakes, winning

LOL, yeap, guilty as charged Spent a few days hanging out with the daughter Lots of walking the river and eating lots of food She was actually flooded out of her home last week and needed to stay on town I did a responsible thing that any responsible parent would do, I shouted her some accommodation and then sent her out to take some pictures of our local walking track

https://mcasuspension.com/product/mca-pro-comfort-holden-commodore-vx-sedan/ Want