The Bogan

LOL, yeah, I get bored and look for things to do The sensor is back in it's OEM position, which is in a much better spot than where the OTR had it I'm not really fussed on any additional power the OTR gives, I've opened up the bottom section of the OEM radiator and it has clean air from behind the grill I was watching a LS getting tuned with a OEM airbox with typical "mods" to mine and a HTV2300, IIRC it was over 400kw, and at around 12psi, it won't be best practice, but it will be fine, I've gone for a larger pulley, so even less boost If the car makes around 350kw with a fat tune I'll be happy

Removed the OTR intake and replaced it with a "slightly modified" OEM airbox, and a new plastic radiator cover, used some 3.5" x 100mm stainless pipe to fill in for the MAF I didn't like how the OTR blocked half of my radiator and sat hard up against the aircon condenser

I'm hoping it doesn't, we will see in a couple of weeks when the blower goes on If it does I'll trim it nice and maybe cover the cut edges with pinch weld or something I've seen a few Harrops that fit with the OEM liner stuff, I've also seen a few where the liner has been hitting the front edge of the blower I've got my fingers crossed

My very stylish and excellent quality under bonnet noise mat thong turned up Fitted straight over the car builder foam stuff My only concern now is will the blower fit, or will this stuff need no be recessed? Before After

Yeah, but then there's the install, and all the other stuff Plus for 350kw it needs a fairly big cam, which screws drivablity and fuel economy, this would also require a larger stall, and stuff At one stage I was looking at a crate LSA with a gearbox for $24k, then I would need to get it in and running > https://www.holmart.com.au/holden-hsv-vf-gts-lsa-430kw-6.2l-crate-engine-6l90 I decided this was the easiest option to get some semi reliable power whilst retaining drivablity and some economy, plus sweet whossy noises I'm sure that someone with garage space and more mechanical aptitude could have done it for less, but meh, I just pay cash

Farkit 2300 it is Going for a oversize pulley to reduce the boost a bit Now for the waiting game

Bullet got back to me with a HTV1900 kit available, 4-6 weeks wait though Torque would be slightly over my threshold, but, at least it is more manageable than the HTV2300 I will have a chat to a shop tomorrow, Autotech Engineering, and see what they say I've spoken to a few other local joints, AE seem to understand I'm not after big numbers so if I do go for gold I will most likely use them, and both Bullet and Harrop recommend them Currently the price for drive in drive out is a hares dick under $15k Lots of money to piss away on whooshy noises LOL And I'm currently trying to teach the kids to be responsible with their money I'm an excellent role model......of what not to do

Motivation SUPERCHARGED MONARO teaser of the latest. - Gearhead Street Cars.mp4

Or......... https://vm.tiktok.com/ZSEdhKpc/ LOL

That's the thing, I'm not chasing times, I'm chasing noise Whooshy noises make me smile Breaking them, not so much

I want "some form" of reliability Turbo, the nature of the beast, i.e. torque monster, would negate all reliability, heat management Centrifugal, everyone I talked to about installing and tuning it seemed to not care about me wanting to limit the torque, it was, "nah, 450kw man, it will be awesome" The twin screw, I talked to Harrop, and Bullet, and a few work shops, and they seemed to understand my wants IRT limiting torque to save reliability, it would still be more torque than I really wanted though, even at 350kwatw they said torque would be around 750nm There was one shop, that did recommended not boosting it, saying that instead of spending alot of coin, and them limiting the torque, I would be better of staying NA and just getting some CNC heads and a few other bits and pieces and shoot for around 300kwatw. In the end it was $15k boosted and high risk, or under $5k NA and low risk The question is do I want over 70 more killerwasps and high risk Or, 30 killerwasps and low risk Farrk, reading that is making me think about my choices There were alot of busted boosted cars in every workshop I visited.......... Fark I'm indecisive......... If it wasn't for my compulsive behaviour I wouldn't get anything done...........

Just got the car back The team at Graigs automatics were great to deal with The 600hp build consists of: Sungear shell with roller bearing Kolene dual cage sprag hub Friction capsule Gaskets, seals and rings Craigs Stage 2 shift kit Hi energy uprated spring kit Heavy duty bush kit Machined pump stator Machined band drum brake Needle washer kit Billet forward accumulator piston Billet 2nd gear servo TH400 4th gear super hold servo Molded steel clutch pack pistons High energy kevlar band Input drum strengthening kit Inspected and cleaned Service hi-stall converter Also ordered a new radiator plastic cover and a stock airbox, the current OTR intake isn't going to work with......the HTV2300 that will be getting installed soon SEND IT

I'm getting a 4L60E built at Craigs automatics ATM Located in Chipping Norton 2170 Give them a call, they may be a options https://www.craigsautos.com.au/automatic-transmission/performance-cars/

I looked at NOS, of course I looked at NOS, BUT, initial outlay is cheap, filling bottles isn't. And not really street friendly You cannot legally have it connected, and even if you do, constantly filling bottles And at around $15 a pound, even filling a 20lb bottle, lets say 15lb at $15 plus $15 "bottle" fee, filling up every month for $240 is $2880 a year And a 20lb bottle lasts about 10 x 100hp hits of 10-15 seconds And you can only use typically around 75% of a bottle until the pressure drops and surging can occur Plus all the fail safes, and purging, and connection woes.....yeah nah

Yeah it already has a 223 228 114 cam, PAC double springs and some chromoly push rods with some LS7 lifters and guides. This thing will never see real track work, the occasional run at the drags and cruising duties will be its forte Definitely going FMIC

The Harrop kits look sweet, the only issue is cost I'm lazy and am a big fan of drive in drive out modifications Single turbo is the cheapest, then the Vortech is next, both would need other supporting mods but it should be drive in drive out for under $15k The Harrop on the other hand starts at $12k in the box, which could easily end up over the $15k drive in drive out budget I am happy to throw away on it Unless a good shop can guarantee they can do it properly for under $15k I'm still in planning stage ATM looking for options, and supporting mods, to get me around 350-370 ATW which gives a fudge factor to the built gearbox, and stock bottom end, a chance at a reasonably long and healthy life, well, for a while anyway, until it breaks They look like a good option for the power I'm after, and when the bonnet is shut no one will know I'm a big girls blouse, apart from the people who remember I had a MX5, and as long as I keep my pants on no one will see my frilly leopard skin knickers Meh

As I will soon have a built gearbox........I've never had a supercharger before I've been visiting alot of sites I like this > VT-VY LS-1 Vortech Sealed Si-Trim Kit, Intercooled (Gilmer P/Steer Drive, Injectors, Pump & Map Sensor) http://www.capa.com.au/kits_holden_ls1.htm I also like this > http://www.aseturbo.com/HOLDEN-COMMODORE/VT-VZ-COMMODORE/TURBO-KIT-T800-STEALTH-VT-VZ/prod_88.html Both will probably cost the same after supporting mods and coatings Turbo whoshy noises or supercharger whine? Then all I need to do is buy it and then find someone to install and tune it

Playing with the noise of the LS1: Version 3.2 5/8 Ages ago I deleted the rear box on my Pacemaker dual 2.5"....... it sounded good everywhere, but droned like 10 droning things, so I put the rear box back on, then.... I removed the middle mufflers to see if I like that,......it sounded good at idle, but, it sounded like 2 thongs slapping really fast at high RPM, so......... Today the car had a Sureflo 3.5" single plumbed in, with a 3.5" resonator in the middle and a 3.5" straight through muffler in the rear. It's louder and deeper than the Pacemaker before I started chopping it up, but not heatseaker loud, well........... It sounds really good now at high RPM, with no slapping thongs, just a nice deep guttural roar And no real drone, actually, it drones less than the Pacemaker did before I started cutting it up, which will keep the Minister for war and finances happy on long drives, well, when the windows are up anyway, windows down and it is loudish...😀 20210125_152447.mp4

Ouch What broke, I thought the T56's were a tough box????? As for my choice of transmission, I purposely got the SS with a auto, better for sitting in traffic, drags, and cruising the highways and byways, the Commodore is a big lazy cruise ship, a manual in it would would be more of a pain than a pleasure

Dooh

Street tyres according to me... Potenza are a 380 tread wear if I recall correctly Good tyre for a daily taxi, and they last a long time with a good alignment, but for a performance street tyre, yeah nah I've recently swapped 245 RE003 for 255 Hankook RS4, 200 tread wear, on my 270kw LS and the difference in grip is astounding It still bags them up if I just mash it, but it grips up much quicker with the RS4's I was running 255/40 17 RS4's on my old 33 which had around 380kw, with some throttle control they held up OK grip wise for the street, and lasted quite well They are not the best when the weather is cold though, but once warm they are good value 265/35 18 RS4's are around $350, 275/35 18 are around $380, IMO they are a good bang for your buck street tyre As for track tyres, thats not my bag Listen to the track day junkies Enjoy

The car was a dream over the last week taking me and Jackie down the coast, it never missed a beat and the fuel economy was surprisingly good In other Bogan news My exhaust part three happens on 01 Feb, I'm getting Sureflo at Ingleburn to thow on a catback twin 2.5" to single 3.5" exhaust, exhaust will have a little 3.5" straight through muffler in the middle and a big 3.5" resonator at the rear, doing it purely because my current twin exhaust routes one of the rear pipes behind my diff limiting access to the diffs drain and fill plugs, and of course, for the sake of chasing a certain exhaust sound At high RPM the twin exhaust sounds a little like thongs flapping, meh.....I'm a consumer In more exciting, bogan enduced, and expensive consumer news, all my lead footed and kicking it down at every opportunity, has lead to a slightly slipping slush box, high RPM shifts have started to get a little weird, so, before the 4 speed turns into a box full of neutrals, or gives itself a nice bay window.......the car is going in for a "performance" 4L60e build on 25 Jan, the build is rated to 600 fly, mine is only about 430 fly, so there is a nice big fudge factor in it for reliability, hopefully the gearbox doesn't die before then...😜

Talking about rolling on stock rims, I went looking for tyres that are gripper than the 245/45 17 RE003's that are on it now Dooh Got some Hankook RS4's Front 8.5 x 17 +38 235/45 17 Rear 9.5 x 17 + 46 255/40 17 Meh I am the bogan king

I hope the only roads you drive on are really smooth

It is a function that most EFI cars have Both my 2015 STI and my 2017 86 had it, from googling Subaru has had this thingie for years My 2002 Dunnydoore has it Basically you hold the pedal down, then try and crank the car, the FI system recognises WOT with the car off, this engages the "flooded engine" mode, and shuts off the injectors while it cranks over After a oil change I usually give it 2 or 3 hits for about 5 seconds each, with the plugs in it doesn't really turn over that fast, but with the plugs removed it turns over much much quicker Be aware that if you crank it for more than 10 seconds the car may start, but after 10 seconds of cranking the oil should be feed around all the oily bits