The Bogan

As I will soon have a built gearbox........I've never had a supercharger before I've been visiting alot of sites I like this > VT-VY LS-1 Vortech Sealed Si-Trim Kit, Intercooled (Gilmer P/Steer Drive, Injectors, Pump & Map Sensor) http://www.capa.com.au/kits_holden_ls1.htm I also like this > http://www.aseturbo.com/HOLDEN-COMMODORE/VT-VZ-COMMODORE/TURBO-KIT-T800-STEALTH-VT-VZ/prod_88.html Both will probably cost the same after supporting mods and coatings Turbo whoshy noises or supercharger whine? Then all I need to do is buy it and then find someone to install and tune it

Playing with the noise of the LS1: Version 3.2 5/8 Ages ago I deleted the rear box on my Pacemaker dual 2.5"....... it sounded good everywhere, but droned like 10 droning things, so I put the rear box back on, then.... I removed the middle mufflers to see if I like that,......it sounded good at idle, but, it sounded like 2 thongs slapping really fast at high RPM, so......... Today the car had a Sureflo 3.5" single plumbed in, with a 3.5" resonator in the middle and a 3.5" straight through muffler in the rear. It's louder and deeper than the Pacemaker before I started chopping it up, but not heatseaker loud, well........... It sounds really good now at high RPM, with no slapping thongs, just a nice deep guttural roar And no real drone, actually, it drones less than the Pacemaker did before I started cutting it up, which will keep the Minister for war and finances happy on long drives, well, when the windows are up anyway, windows down and it is loudish...😀 20210125_152447.mp4

Ouch What broke, I thought the T56's were a tough box????? As for my choice of transmission, I purposely got the SS with a auto, better for sitting in traffic, drags, and cruising the highways and byways, the Commodore is a big lazy cruise ship, a manual in it would would be more of a pain than a pleasure

Dooh

Street tyres according to me... Potenza are a 380 tread wear if I recall correctly Good tyre for a daily taxi, and they last a long time with a good alignment, but for a performance street tyre, yeah nah I've recently swapped 245 RE003 for 255 Hankook RS4, 200 tread wear, on my 270kw LS and the difference in grip is astounding It still bags them up if I just mash it, but it grips up much quicker with the RS4's I was running 255/40 17 RS4's on my old 33 which had around 380kw, with some throttle control they held up OK grip wise for the street, and lasted quite well They are not the best when the weather is cold though, but once warm they are good value 265/35 18 RS4's are around $350, 275/35 18 are around $380, IMO they are a good bang for your buck street tyre As for track tyres, thats not my bag Listen to the track day junkies Enjoy

The car was a dream over the last week taking me and Jackie down the coast, it never missed a beat and the fuel economy was surprisingly good In other Bogan news My exhaust part three happens on 01 Feb, I'm getting Sureflo at Ingleburn to thow on a catback twin 2.5" to single 3.5" exhaust, exhaust will have a little 3.5" straight through muffler in the middle and a big 3.5" resonator at the rear, doing it purely because my current twin exhaust routes one of the rear pipes behind my diff limiting access to the diffs drain and fill plugs, and of course, for the sake of chasing a certain exhaust sound At high RPM the twin exhaust sounds a little like thongs flapping, meh.....I'm a consumer In more exciting, bogan enduced, and expensive consumer news, all my lead footed and kicking it down at every opportunity, has lead to a slightly slipping slush box, high RPM shifts have started to get a little weird, so, before the 4 speed turns into a box full of neutrals, or gives itself a nice bay window.......the car is going in for a "performance" 4L60e build on 25 Jan, the build is rated to 600 fly, mine is only about 430 fly, so there is a nice big fudge factor in it for reliability, hopefully the gearbox doesn't die before then...😜

Talking about rolling on stock rims, I went looking for tyres that are gripper than the 245/45 17 RE003's that are on it now Dooh Got some Hankook RS4's Front 8.5 x 17 +38 235/45 17 Rear 9.5 x 17 + 46 255/40 17 Meh I am the bogan king

I hope the only roads you drive on are really smooth

It is a function that most EFI cars have Both my 2015 STI and my 2017 86 had it, from googling Subaru has had this thingie for years My 2002 Dunnydoore has it Basically you hold the pedal down, then try and crank the car, the FI system recognises WOT with the car off, this engages the "flooded engine" mode, and shuts off the injectors while it cranks over After a oil change I usually give it 2 or 3 hits for about 5 seconds each, with the plugs in it doesn't really turn over that fast, but with the plugs removed it turns over much much quicker Be aware that if you crank it for more than 10 seconds the car may start, but after 10 seconds of cranking the oil should be feed around all the oily bits

LOL, yeah, it's a hit or miss kinda thing

If the mec is 10 minutes away I would just put some engine and radiator flush through it for the drive to the mec, then get them to change every oil and fluid I would pull the plugs for the first turnover to build some oil pressure, after sitting around for 12 months there isn't going to be much oil in it, apart from the sump. Wait, it a boxer, LOL, bugger pulling the plugs, does it have the "flooded" engine thingie where if you hold your foot flat on the accelerator it doesn't start, if so do that a few times.

And?????

Whatcha do IRT the "deep end"? Tell me tell me tell me As for keeping the old mufflers, yeah nah, there in the bin already As for the resonators, the old guy said he could fit them, but suggested that I really dont need them to kill drone, he said my rear muffler would be adequate, he said if I wanted them I could come back later and he would chuck them in He was right, coming home on the M5 sitting on 100kph with the windows up you couldn't really tell much of a difference between now and before with the full exhaust BUT, when you mash the loud pedal to the firewall, well, that is a totally different story, no drone, just loud V8 noises. My take is, it sounds really deep and rumbling, but legal (ish) when I'm gentle on the throttle, so as long as I'm exercising my eyeball muscles I should be golden Hard free reving is all growls, pops and bangs, LOL, so much so that when I reved the bejesus out of it, it made me giggle and reminded me of days gone by of old v8's reving in the pits Meh, my years of experience with JDM and basically ever other car and motorbike that I've played with over the last 40 years is you are going to pay if you want to play But running it at stock height with stock wheels, plus I tend to not drive like a idiot, and I'm a old white guy, should help as well to not draw heat

Thermal stuff is holding up really well In other news: I tried a rear muffler delete on my pacemaker twin 2.5" a while ago, whilst is sounded good the drone at 100 kph was too much to live with so the rear box went back on So, a couple of months later, I'm sitting out the front of an exhaust shop waiting for my turn The 2 center mufflers are getting cut out and some small resonators are going in I have heard this setup on a mates LS VT and it worked well, louder than mine, but not canary yellow loud..........maybe....... In other other news: I'm waiting on a quote to get my 4l60e built, I'm giving the car a fairly hard time and the old 4l60e gearbox is the weakest link, this should help stopping it becoming a box full of neutrals when it is shifting at WOT on drag radials

FYP

One of the boys at work has discovered this, his mint AMG 55 has cost him a bomb to maintain Bloody nice cars though, they need to be the real AMG though, made in Germany, not the AMG badged cars that are made in India or Africa that only have AMG wheels and dodgey build quality In saying that, owning an AMG would be cheaper than owning a GTR, and you could park the AMG and it would most likely still be there when you return, the GTR, not so much. In saying this I've been looking at older AMG Mercs and 80's Jaguars as weekend cruisers for me and the Mrs

A great man once said: "If you cannot afford 2 GTR Skylines, you cannot afford to buy 1"

After a casual drive to get some fuel I got the Ebay infra-red temp gauge out Car was idling away for about 3 minutes after the drive With some quick point and shoot....... There is a difference of between 30-35 ° at the header i.e. when the header right at the flange is around 130°, 25mm away where the stuff is hard against the header it is 95-100° My trans cooler was 45° on the cold side and 65° on the hot side Front of head was at 90° Coolant was 65° Power steering reservoir was way up at 85° (fark 🤯), next mod might be a real PS cooler Ebay, here I come

Catch can is working well, the intake tract is oil free, there was actually fark all oil in the can though, I'm sure the reason for this is I'm not thrashing it enough Talking about thrashing, I finally put the last coat of paint on my 15 x 7 chasers, started with alot of prep and 2 coats of zinc gal, then satin black on the back side, front is silver gal......yeap.......left over paint from building a car port Pity every local supplier of MT Street S/S 235/ 60 16 are out of stock till February 21, still, plenty of time for this awesome paint job to cure......

Yeah mate https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/254058558038 Ties https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/113924313761 I reckon you can get it heaps cheaper but I am a impatient consumer and typically just hit "buy now" when I find something I like

I put them on to initially hold it in place, now that it has cured I might take them off. In truth the extra ties don't really stand out anyway. Welding stuff, yeah nah, the whole point of this was to get a noticeable result as easily as possible. If I was going to do anymore than what I have done I would pull the headers out, get them coated and then, most likely use the same stuff again, or wrap them, but that ain't happening, LOL.

I should stop yelling

Also added that aluminium composite sheet before After

Fitting heat sheilding- part 1 Ok, so the stuff arrived As usual the ebay description was not quite correct, there are no tabs on the material at all. So, I just stabbed stainless steel cable ties through which has worked a treat. As for the sheet size and fixing it to the headers. The "kit" consisted of 2 sheets of about 25" x 20" Issue: using 1 full sheet wasn't really going to work for each header due to the limited access in the engine bay Fix: I measured up both sides and worked out where I had access, turned out cutting the sheet in half 25" x 10" worked a treat When fitting I pulled the coils for more access but left the leads connected to the plugs to form the stuff around lots of ties later Since the pics it has been cured (yeah, pretty smokey) and has seemed to form fit a little better. For coverage as of now is from the primaries just past the first collectors Part 2: next time the car is on stands, sometime this week probably, will involve using the remaining sheet, cut in half, and placed over the top of the secondaries to keep the heat from them radiating into the firewall and foot well, well, for 25" anyways In the end the difference in radiant heat is very noticeable to my uncalibrated hand, yeap, I though fark it and proceeded to touch the headers after the drive to cure the stuff, yes it was hot, but, no burns or melted skin, which was nice In other news: I noticed your sound deadening, nice, I got some of that "car builder" thick underbonnet soft foam stuff and cut to suit the frame, I am just waiting on a new OEM style underbonnet sound proofing to turn up to neaten it up and add a little more sound proofing Groovy

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