The Bogan

I would like a mint 32 GTST 26/30 and lay mad skids. I'm over AWD. Oh, and a mint stock 32 GTR for the garage. Come on Lotto....

Say whaaaaat

Sploosh

I was told the torque was chewing the face off the gear. A brand new OEM gearbox lasted 3 passes on Mickey T,s, till it started growling like a dog that is.

My old boat would do this, 900ish nm and sticky tyres would chew up the stock boxes real quick. I even had a good shop (award) rebuild it twice. The poor old boxes are well past their OEM torque specs when the power goes up. Flooging the hell out of them doesn't help the situation, but then why make the power and not use it in anger.

Looks clean, nice.

Does that take the gearbox into consideration?

If I pick up up a car with no, or questionable service history I do everything up and including the service required at the current odo reading or date. For a car with 190k on it I would, without looking at the owners manual because I don't have one... Flush every oil and fluid and replace every oil and coolant, engine, gearbox, diff, coolant, brakes Every filter Timing belt Water pump Idler Spark plugs I would inspect and change if required: All heater hoses Rubber brake lines Brake pads/discs Wheel bearings Serpentine belts Dampers Bushings. There is most likely alot of stuff I've missed. Find a owners manual or post with required services at intervals Once I have serviced the car to the best of my ability I will take it to a "good" workshop and get them to run it up on a dyno for a health check, and inspection, a good mechanic can diagnose and maybe pick some things missed by me. As for parts, only change the things that require changing, it's gonna cost you a heap, don't waste cash on things that may not be required. Once it's serviced the next vital step, which is most important, is to do a skid.... http://www.skyline-owners-club.com/forums/downloads/R33_All_Engine_Manual.pdf

15 years That's gotta be a record of some sort.

Rear OEM muffler delete and knock out cat. Muffler delete costs about $100, made at your local exhaust shop Or cut it of yourself A drill, a big long drill bit, a hammer and big screwdriver for "fixing" the cat. If it sounds loud and shit add a small box on the rear. Done, you car is now like mine, noisy, and slow.......

I wouldn't do it to a clean car, but I would take a grinder to a hack in a minute. If you do do it, do it right, don't just cut and rivet like some drift pig

98 is $1.64 at Cross Roads Costco, $1.60 BP Villawood ATM Get the "petrol spy" app or simular In the end owning a car is expensive, sell car and pick something within your budget. My 86 uses 9L of 98 per 100km, I thrash it everywhere, and yes it is as slow as 10 slow things, but it is as fun as 10 fun things, and it's cheap to run.

More like the computer is so old it takes 15 minutes to do anything after clicking on something. My phone makes phone calls and does the googles, but sometimes I take a pic and they are too big for some forum pages. The computer has that editor thingie that makes the pics "smaller". I would rather spend money on car parts and alcohol than get a new computer, which will sit in the bottom draw and only get used when I rip discs or want to resize a pic. I've never really been a computer person, I was hoping for a easy fix using my phone. And if I ask the missus or kid to use their one they would be all like "see, I told you you need a new computer", which would make me walk outside and yell at clouds....

LOL, my newest laptop computer is about 8 years old and mainly lives in the bottom draw. It comes out every so often to resize pictures and rip new music cd's so I can throw them on a hard drive. No GIMPS for me then. Cheers

Does it resize images? Can I use it on a android phone? Plus horse needs a horn and a poo rainbow like a unicorn..

Have a few spare gearboxes handy Or get yours built The OEM box isn't a big fan of alot of torque My 25/30 loved to eat the gears of the OEM box when on sticky tyres

I'll just get the tune at this point. From the experience I got with the tuned car with only a header and exhaust is it is still worth the outlay. Even without a tune, the car as it stands now seems much better, it seems to rev much more freely in the midrange, proof of if I'm imagining it or not will be pre dyno results. Stock, the torque drops its show bags badly, from 210nm down to 185nm (25nm or about 9%) from around 3-4.5 rpm, it might not seem much, but as the car has F all to start with it is noticeable daily driving. Cold start is now quite loud though, it does settles down once the cold start has done its thing, or if I blip the throttle. I'm sure the neighbors are aware of my new and improved exhaust modifications now. The tune will remove the cold start issue now that that particular function is redundant, and hopefully, the tune flattens the curve out. The cat in the midpipe seems to be doing its thing well, I'll get them to check my emissions when it's tuned to ensure compliance.....

OEM gearbox is rated to 250nm. No wonder all the base supercharger and turbo kits are designed around 160-170 kw-200nm Small supercharger (sprintex) with its smoother, and lower torque delivery (cool blower noise, which is mucho importanto)? Small turbo to hit my limited power goal and still be efficient (cool pigeons and sneezing noises, again with the mucho importanto)? Still, lots of money to make a maximum addition of 50 torques and around 160-170 kwatw The weakness of the drivetrain has now become the sticking point, and thus, the limiting factor IRT end power goals My initial budget calcs were well flawed, I would need to factor in built box and some axles, maybe some other sh i t.....arrrrgggggg Power is no fun when the car breaks all the time, I still have a eye twitch from the R33 I had Shit f**k

Engineering IRT emissions compliance would be a major hurdle I would assume with a 2J, plus adding a rebuilt motor and fab and box and other stuff?????? The latest LS would be sweet, I looked into it but the total price https://www.whichcar.com.au/features/6-litre-ls-swapped-toyota-86-street-car is rather large. Hence, just build the FA20 to the point where it doesn't eat the drivetrain. I've rode in a 86 with 200kwatw, it was fun, 250 or 300, that would be much...funner.....

And a built engine, and everything else for it to be reliable'ish Cost, which is around 20k minimum, is significant I could turbo it, but limit it, but where would the fun be in that. If I do end up forcing air down its guts it gonna be done right, "apparently" the drivetrain is questionable over 300 torques, over that and the gear box is a consumable item, so that would be my limiting factor. I'm still learning what breaks these things, alot more research is needed before dropping a ton of cash on it, only to have it break down the track isn't something I'm looking for. I do think about it, alot, LOL Unless you give me 30k, I'll do it then, and let you do a big skid in it..........

So, I was given a free day off at work. Changed the diff and box oil, finally. While it was on stands I did the engine oil, after filling I realised I forgot to swap my sump plug with my Fumoto drain valve, doih, next time eh. I also killed all the kittens and butterflies. So far so good. Just need to get it tuned now. ?????

So, I've been looking at stuff to do prior to getting the thing tuned, I'll be going to Pulse, ECUTEK, rev match, FFS, launch control, LOL, that's gonna cost around $1400ish. So, as it is staying NA for rhe foreseeable future I've been looking at headers and overpipe. Talking to a guy at work that has a 86 and has done alot of mucking around IRT headers and overpipes, he initially just got a tune and found some good midrange and a little up top, he then knocked out the cat in the header (they have one in the header and one in the front pipe) and got it retuned for much better midrange and slightly more gains everywhere else. He then got a aftermarket header and overpipe, cost him around $1500 after coating, the things made a whopping bugger all difference to power. It did see gains, but only a few hp up top, and a couple, I think he said 3 more torques in the midrange. So, spend $1500 on a header and overpipe for minimal gains (which may, or may not get replaced with a turbo manifold down the track), plus, the cost of the tune, OR............ I have a couple of days off this week, I have a minicat O2 spacer, a drill, a long 1/2" drill bit, a hammer, a chisel, a respirator, a fridge full of JD cans and a first aid kit full of bandages. Cry havoc, unleash the dogs of war.

It's toe that chews tyres more so than camber I've found. How much camber/toe you need for your application is relative to how sticky your tyres are, suspension, driving conditions, the cars usage and such, tyre pressures are critical as well My old R33 boat, GTST, and my MX5 liked -°2.5 front and - °2.0 rear, 0 toe everywhere. My tyres wore nice and even'ish. RWD vs AWD settings may be different. My STI had similar camber settings to the boat, but had a little toe out at the front, 1mm total IIRC, that little bit of toe wore my inner fronts much more, that much more that I needed to flip my tyres on the front rims, left to right, front to rear, to get some longevity out of them. Ended up getting 0 toe everywhere and the tyres wore much better. My 86 is currently --°2.0 front and -°2.5 rear (I still need to get rear adjustable LCA) and 0 toe everywhere, I would like to drop the rear to -°1.5 once I get the LCA and test and adjust from there, setting the right tyre presure is hurting my brain, so far, 32 psi front and 30 psi rear seems to be working, I think...... The -°2.0 on the front seem to be using the tyre well for driving (read:thrashing) around the street and trips through the Nasho. Disclaimer: Dont listen to me, I'm rather drunk ATM.

Sold Cheers

I would look at the cars handling characteristics and go from there, understeer/oversteer. There's alot more to it than just putting bigger bars on. I wrecked my old 33 by going to big with the bars and to stiff with the springs. I sacrificed traction front and rear in the end. From my experience, which was from doing it wrong, what you really need to do is find the spring rate for the cars use, whether it's track, street or a mix of things, get your dampers to suit. Then after an alignment and tyre playing with tyre pressure see how the car handles, you may be happy, you may not, maybe you need to only replace 1 bar, maybe bigger, maybe smaller. I am by no means an expert, as stated, I f**ked my 33 handling by missmatching parts due to ignorance. SAU NSW had a tech night at Heasams (spelling?) not long ago, I went to one years ago at a different joint, from that night I learnt that I was doing it wrong (after spending thousands to make my car handle "worse"), they talked alot about springs/damper/bars/alignment/tyre pressure and how you need to look at it as a whole and not the individual part. Rock and roll