The Bogan

From talking to the mx5 guys the NC doesn't actually need bonnet vents like the earlier NA and NB models, due to a better designed cooling system and undertray design There's plenty of them used as street cars and weekend track toys running anywhere from around 170 to 250kw with stock non vented bonnets, I initially was going to get some bonnet vents, but, as they are not actually required, I'll put vents on hold for a while and just monitor temps, though I do need to get something to actually monitor engine oil temps though, coolant temp can be pulled from the OBD2, but the oil gauge in the car is not actual oil temp, it is only a calculation based off coolant temp and RPM ☹️ They do recommend upgrading the radiator, which I have already done with a triple pass, and the only other thing they recommend for a street car is heat management, like I talked about above to protect bits in the engine bay from radiant heat, and to either replace the nearly 20 year old plastic coolant expansion tank, which I have done, or get a aftermarket alloy jobbie for some bling They did also say that if I wanted to track the car on occasion a oil cooler and sump baffle would be required, and as I already have had a sump baffle installed when the engine was out......... I'm going to get a oil cooler with a thermostat....... just in case I do eventually track the car, but probably not, but still maybe...🤪

Pre-empting heat management 1. The Kraken manifold will be ceramic coated 2. Just purchased some peel and stick heat shielding stuff from car builders, I'll cover some of the firewall behind the dump and a little on the cam cover, this will be done prior to installation as I have ample room to get where I need to now before that realestate has more bits in the way, I'm also planning to modify the OEM heat shield to go back on, but that won't happen until after installation so I know where to hack it up, I'll also cover it with some some peel and stick to neaten it up after the hacking 3. As the dump is stainless with a flex joint coating isn't really a option, and wrapping isn't recommended for a stainless dump, so once it is installed I'll grab some shielding from car builders to cover the dump, as it has some stand off, it "shouldn't" cause any issues and it "should" just keep the radiant heat away from " melty engine bay stuff" Not for heat management, but I've grabbed some more black crinkle coat to paint all the shiny intake pipes, I'll pick the pipe work up prior to installation and use the paint booth and big oven at work to cure them, I'll then wrap them with some bubble wrap so they stay nice during installation

I had a look at the FAB9 EFR kit, around $8500 AU before delivery, so add in shipping, installation, consumables and tuning, I believe the price difference would be negligible And whilst I am paying top dollar at MX5 Mania, if I have any issues with the kit they are local for support, and from my experience, will happily go out of their way to help, hell, I've purchased parts from them and asked "how do I install or remove parts" and they have fitted a few of them for free, this means more to me than saving a few thousand dollars And yes, 99% of the time I just plod around in the car, that may change once I start hearing turbo whooshy noises, but, as I have 3 family members is the constabulary, even when I'm up it, it is only up to the speed limit, or occasionally, but rarely, overtaking on the Hwy (I just plod in the left lane typically and enjoy the drive) Plus the kids would never let it go if I got booked speeding, Jackie is constantly getting critiqued by the kids about her driving, which I think is hilarious, and tell them that she is "bringing shame to our family", so heaven forbid if I ever got done speeding, after all my mouthing off about her driving, I would never live it down, and it would be another thing she would bring up any chance she got Like the time I got drunk about 15 years ago and fell out of a cab, which gets brought up at least a few times every year since it happened Good times

Gents, it will be getting the MX5 Mania kit and the 2.5 will be staying where it is My query was about the 0.64 or the 0.86, whilst the 0.64 might spool a bit faster, would the 0.86 be better IRT EGT and mechanical sympathy, with only a small difference in spool And as I assume I won't need alot of boost to get to 200kw, probably around 10 psi, and with max rpm at 6500, would high EGT even really be a issue with a 0.64 I'm heading into MX5 Mania at the end of Jan to discuss the install, so any info is welcome prior to that Basically have a chat and book a time so they can throw on the turbo kit, and fit a oil cooler with a thermostat, drive in drive out of course In other news: just finished cleaning the car inside and out, it's now all ready to get covered in bugs and dirt driving to Goulburn tomorrow to lunch, and go for a stroll along woolondilly River with the daughter and her boy, and of course, visit my grandcats and my new grandpuppy

Cheers for the info mate, I'm old too, 60 years old next May, so a more linear delivery of the 0.86 would be better as baking tyres and snapping heads isn't on the cards for me or the car I assume a more linear power delivery would be better for engine and drivetrain reliability as well, IRT the torque load at lower RPM???, as well as lower EGT's???, if my understanding of that is correct, have I got that right??? I've only got a really basic understanding of turbo sizing and all there characteristics Cheers for the useful information

PULSAR PSR2860R 0.86A/R or 0.64 GEN 2 Turbocharger Both are -50*67mm 8 blade billet compressor wheel Cheers

This isn't for lotsa powers, and time and effort isn't even a thing I'm concerned about The whole reason is "Just because fun", and "Just because fun" is what I do And whilst there are other kits, with better and more modern turbos (Rev9 use the same Kraken manifold I believe.....EDIT... nope, the Kraken is a cast jobbie, the REv9 uses welded up stainless, plus $8000 AUD before shipping, installation and tuning) Where else in Sydney can I do a drive in drive out with the after sales support that MX5 Mania give My Turbo 86 made around 200kwatw on a AVO turbo kit that Pulse fitted, and it was over 100kg heavier than the MX5, but it was a blast to drive around the streets, until I crashed it.....DOOH, so somewhere around 200 ish level and some whooshy noises and I'll be happy driving to work, the shops, or heading into the country with Jackie for Devonshire tea So, thanks Dose for your info, it sounds like a 0.64 will be fine for what I'm after👍 The only real racing I do nowadays is to the toilet

This isn't for lotsa powers, and time and effort isn't even a thing I'm concerned about The whole reason is "Just because fun", and "Just because fun" is what I do And whilst there are other kits, with better and more modern turbos (Rev9 use the same Kraken manifold I believe), where in Sydney can I do a drive in drive out with the after sales support that MX5 Mania give My Turbo 86 made around 200kwatw on a AVO turbo kit, and was over 100kg heavier than the MX5, but it was a blast to drive around the streets, until I crashed it.....DOOH, so somewhere around 200 ish level and some whooshy noises and I'll be happy driving to work, the shops, or heading into the country with Jackie for Devonshire tea So, thanks Dose for your info, it sounds like a 0.64 will be fine for what I'm after👍 The only real racing I do nowadays is to the toilet

98 mate

Turbo gods, some assistance and recommendations please I'm looking into a turbo kit for my 2.5 from MX5 Mania >>>>> https://mx5mania.com.au/products/copy-of-mx-5-nc-2-5-litre-engine-conversion-turbo-2005-2013 Power wise I would like about 200kw atw, and of course dose noises, apparently if you keep a stock 2.5 under around 200kwatw the engine and drivetrain will not hate life even when ragging on it a bit Max RPM on the 2.5 is around 6500rpm The turbo MX5 use is something around the disco potato size as packaging room for the turbo is pretty limited, which will, I believe, give me my power goals I want and not have the turbo either under, or oversized, but the rear housing bit is confusing It comes with either a 0.64 or 0.86 From my understanding, which so far is based off googling, so make of that what you will 0.64: spools faster = good Makes more EGT heat on boost = bad Less topend power than 0.86 = I'm only looking for 200 atw so that point may be mute????, I don't know, hence my questions 0.86: Spools a "little" slower = how much slower??? remembering 6500 is my max rpm Makes less EGT heat = good Makes a little more power up top = again, power goals is only around 200 Also, this is a street car, so there will not really be any long track sessions, in saying this I would want it so it was happy with at least 3 hot laps at Wakefield Park if the need arises I already have a fancy pants triple pass radiator, and a oil cooler with thermostat will be getting installed as well Thanks for any information or recommendations you have 👍, and of course, the comments about me wasting money on drive in drive out modifications, or any other snide remarks about my manhood for owning a MX5 🤣

Tape some wool onto the vent then take it for a drive I did this to my reverse cowl and was instantly unhappy, as anything over about 60kph would have the wool enter the engine bay, thus just adding underbonnet pressure and stooging my coolant stack, it did let alot of heat out when stationary though, which really didn't help once the car was moving, with the reverse cowl you could watch the coolant temps cheap up the faster you went on the hwy, I assume it would be alot worse doing track day speed With the vented bonnet (just after the radiator and about 1/3 up the bonnet) on my old R33 the wool on the leading edge sat at about a 45° angle as air poured out of it From looking where your vents are, and their size, I believe you should be fine at speed and air should be evacuated from the engine bay, I think it will be a night and day difference when stuck in traffic though for removing the trapped heat, and not sitting there cooking when parked up after driving around... #convection Post wool tuft pics and data for science This beastie is one nice and unique rig, enjoy

As an ex-skyline owner Going off how these things are now "modern classics", I would keep the twins and just "refresh" bits that are required for reliable power and have a car you can take out for a cruise whenever you get the itch As a idiot who cannot leave things alone Going deep into the "rabbit hole" is a easy thing to do, as previously mentioned, once you start it becomes a slippery slope, wirh lots of supporting mods, and possibly rebuilds, and unless you have a bottomless pit of funds, the car can spend most of its life sitting in the garage, broken, waiting for parts, or building more funds For a classic like a R32 GTR Basically, a reliable OEM+ refresh, that isn't a broken garage queen, is alot better than a car that you build, then break, then fix, then break again And it isn't just the engine you need to worry about, these beasties are getting on in age, and all parts are getting, and have got, expensive, the days of picking up cheap replacement engines and other driveline parts are well and truly over The funds not spent on going a single with quality parts, and with all the other other bits required to make it happen, could be spent on refreshing alot of other parts A wise man once said "If you cannot afford 2 GTR's, you cannot afford 1", I also believe he said this about 20 years ago when you could pick up a clean R32 GTR up for around $20k My advice for a R32 GTR (the one and only true Godzilla in my mind) is to think holistically about the whole car, the body, the power train, the suspension, the brakes, and the driveline SAU is a wealth of knowledge with decades of Skyline experience, from stock, to OEM+, to modified to varying degrees, to full on or weekend or dedicated racecars, as well as full on money pits that rarely leave their garage Treat the old girl nice and give her what she deserves, you are a lucky man to own such a classic car

Nah, I think the current user name suits me pretty well

Purchased a NC MX5 a while ago Basic suspension mods done, BC coils and Whiteline sway bars New DBA calipers, discs and pads Added some 17 x 8 Konig Decagrams with 215/45 17 PS5's Added some typical NA bolt on's, i.e. full exhaust and intake Added 0.5ltrs with a MZR2.5 swap, nice bump in torques Found a detachable hard top which is locked in for a colour match with my local paint shop in Feb 25, this also includes some PDR as it has received a few love taps from parking in the local shops when in the hands of my Minister for War and Finances, me, I park nowhere near other cars and typically park on the street The little thing is awesome, I drive it everywhere, it handles like a dream whether I'm up it or just cruising But now, because I'm a idiot, I keep looking at turbo kits....... did I mention I'm a idiot Why is dose so appealing All of the NA 2.5 glory, well.......until sometime in 2025 anyway....🤪

A sporty manual RWD coupe with a IL4 Honda engine would only be a good thing I assume we won't see anything released for a few years though, unless informal talks and designs have been going on for a few years, and due to the current, and future, emmisions and safety requirements, I assume anything "sporty" they would do would be at least some hybrid thingie And hopefully anything they are thinking of has nice lines, without lots of plastic and fake bits hanging off it like that horrendous FK8 that looked like it was designed by a 13 year old The other issue of course in the current market is cost, currently the type R is around $70k, a twin is around $50k Meh, I'm old and grumpy and would rather buy a older model car and waste my coin on that than buying anything currently available new

Maybe not 🤪

God I love shiny engine parts 🥰 Are you looking for more horsetorques in the mid range? (Smaller cam) Or just more horsetorques every where? (Big heads and bigger revs) Assumption: they were not bought late night shopping on the interwebs after drinking too many beers, which is typically how I pull pins on things......🤣 The evolution of your car is coming along nicely, I sometimes wish I didn't get bored with my cars and keep flipping them, maybe the MX5 will be different

Done about 5k Km on the PS5's now, excellent street tyres, great in the dry, and the wet, seem to be wearing very well, I haven't measured tread depth, but it looks like minimal wear, I also had a different alignment done about 1500km ago, From looking at the tread wear, which is really only minimal, the alignment changes were based off how the tread looked, and how it felt throwing it around, the changes have shown great results 215/45 17 at 32 psi Front Caster: 5.5° Camber: -1.5° Toe: 0.0mm Rear Camber: -1.0° Total Toe-in: 1.5mm I actually prefer PS5's now over the RS4's, as the PS5's are much better in the wet IMO, and as the MX5 gets driven in all weather conditions doing daily duties, hwy trips, and blasts in the mountains, wet weather grip is high on my priority list

Nope, they were good "bang for your buck" 20 years ago, nowadays, not so much

"Vidal Sassoon's illegitimate love child"? "Crew cut"? But "Clippers"? or "Just the clippers"? are currently sitting on top of the list, as this is what my hair style has been for the last 50 odd years

A red or yellow S15 wins my vote, Ack that it just scraps in with the 90's cars theme, but they are great looking little sports car Next would be a A80 Supra (pre face lift), whilst the A80 has its own issues, I feel is the best looking larger GT car As for the FD, "I" feel that the reason it triggers me in a non-positve way when looking at one, is like looking at a high maintenance pretty girl who you know is mentally unstable and likely to explode for no apparent reason

Nope I'm not a fan of aftermarket body kits or big wings really, to the point I replaced the 400 front bar on my 33 with a OEM one An I quite like the OEM body lines on the NC I saying this, I did bolt on a 33 GTR wing on my 33 GTST, but I think that suited the car well

Damn it, no, I topped up before I got to yours I really should look at Costco locations more when I'm out and about burning through fuel

Costco uses Mobile as a supplier, I always get Costco 98 when I'm near one, they are typically about 30 cents or more cheaper than the local Mobile

Always have 😁