The Bogan

This happens more than people know, there's lots of money to be made rebirthing cars Lots of rusted hulk or crashed "collectable" cars are "refreshed" this way

I come here now to live vicariously through others, well, I do spend too much money on my cars, but my cars are still working......typically... Times haven't really changed alot though, the build cars, run the cars hard, then break the cars, rinse and repeat, has been going on from when I first joined SAU Good times

I assume some busted arse rusty one may be getting a new lease of life Are the chassis numbers stamped on the JDM/AUD models? Or just the riveted on plate?

The big block.....LOL

Oh, oops, yeah, I'm getting the cams in the 2.5 replaced, so the above factory 2.0 cam specs don't mean 5hit, but, after alot of googling it seems the factory 2.5 cams don't like to rev So, yeah, there is that 🤣

It's basically the same platform, hence why everything bolts to everything else Kelford camshafts were recommended by Mania after they asked me what I want the car for, I said "I'll thrash it around daily and maybe take it to the track for fun" 🤣 Factory NC 2.0L cam specs: - Adv. Dur. 256 /256 - Dur @ .050 205 /190 - Lift 9.42mm/8.13mm So, as I know nothing about cam specs, all I can say is the numbers are different and it should get a little bit of lope....🤣

MX5 goes into MX5 Mania tomorrow for the "camed 2.5 big block" swap 🤪 A week later than expected, but they found a lower Km engine than the first one and needed time for it to be pulled and inspected I did take it for its last spin with the 2.0 today, great day for top down driving, drove it to Altitude 1148 to lunch with Jackie Took the long way home down Bulli Pass, then home via the Nasho, lots of traffic, but typical for a weekend/public holiday, I had to time some sections to get "free air" for some of the twisties though, but a nice little cruise none the less, the car is handling great, and it sound awesome when I'm up it Looking forward to seeing the difference that 0.5 ltrs and some cams make

Heaps of historical info on this, a quick Google gave dates back to 2012, all talk about identification markings, dimples, shapes of mounting surfaces, washers, that are concave or something to match the fasteners mounting surface, which ARP states that if the washer, if it uses a washer in its application, isn't the right way around, it can cause premature failure, even if it was torqued up correctly with whatever lube is meant to be used There is even talk about getting the bolts Xrayed to check the structure, one was about some builder getting multiple sets of bolts, having them Xrayed, and picking from those results Nowadays identical "looking" fake parts, in identical looking fake packaging are everywhere, with all the markings and stuff, the only way you know they are not legit is Xray or when they fail I assume if you don't want fake parts, and don't have a Xray machine handy, is to get them directly from ARP in the USofA, aftermarket rod and head bolts aren't something to take for granted Imagine building a big dollar build only to find you lunch it because of an inferior fake fixture let go 😫

If they are a standard parts that have been replaced with a new, or better part, they mainly go in the recycling bin at home if there's room, or into the metal or big rubbish bin at work Saying this, I have gifted or sold some random stuff over the years, but, if they don't sell, or aren't given away within a month or so, they hit the bin I use to keep everything, to give away when I sold a car or bike, but typically people didn't want the parts, and the garage, shed, and other storage areas would fill up with parts, that got old and keeping stuff for the sake of keeping stuff was not the best use of space I do still have a big box full of all sorts of nuts, bolts, washers and brackets though, which come in handy... "every few years" and typically only for other peoples projects

I find I am using the MX5 for everything except long overnight cruises with Jackie, or, if picking up the kids to go somewhere, the SS has so much more room inside, and is much more comfortable if your going to be doing Hwy driving for 6-8 hours And the MX5 isn't bad in stop go traffic for a manual transmission car, whilst the clutch kit has been upgraded from stock, it is still light, and also not having a stupidly light flywheel in it helps as well, I've spent alot of time sitting on the M5, M4 and M7 stuck in traffic when plodding around the Greater Sydney Region in it Another benefit is MX5's are not really a car that gets stolen, you can pretty much park it anywhere, and it will still be there when you return

1. The MX5 is small, light and fun to throw around at low speeds 2. Fuel economy is great 3. There's more than enough room for my day bag, and enough room in the boot for some shopping 4. I like looking at it My daily commute takes about 10 minutes of suburban streets, mostly 50kph, with about 6 roundabouts and minimal traffic Whilst the SS is a big comfy cruiser, that's all it is, and the fuel economy is about 3 times as much as the MX5's around town

New dampening settings are much nicer or crappy roads, I've also noticed no difference when throwing the car around on smooth twisty roads In other news: Idle hands are the devils play things, or, more correctly, my typical while we're in there 5hit, and too much time on my hands with online shopping Some new purchases for the 2.5 swap Fancy pants new 32mm triple flow radiator, because the old radiator is old and needs to come out for the 2.5 swap anyway Gates fancy pants water pump, because recommended with the new radiator Plus a new silicone coolant hose kit, because old hoses are old And a sump baffle thingo, because while I won't track the MX5, I'll probably track the MX5, maybe, probably......but, while we're in there anyway, as the FWD 2.5 sump needs to gets replaced with the RWD 2.0 sump, so, yeah I am loving driving the MX5 around everywhere, the poor old Bogan Cruise Ship hasn't really moved in months

Yeah, pure laziness My main reason for the change is the local crappy roads, car felt great going up the Mac Pass, and then back down the long way home via Jamberoo Mountain Road after ramming a sausage roll and coffee down the gullet But as stated, good reason to head back down for a pie or sausage roll and coffee Some nice cars turned up at the pie shop, my fave was a mint V8 Soarer coupe, the condition of it was truly awesome Edit: plus to adjust the dampening I need to remove the OEM front strut brace, because it covers them, and remove some of the rear boot trim, I did have my little tool kit with everything required to do it with me, but, yeah, laziness

After a lovely little cruise up Mac Pass into Robertson pie shop on the weekend, and all the daily driving on our crappy roads, I decided to soften up the dampers a bit I've gone from 13 clicks from full soft to 9 clicks on the front, and from 8 clicks full soft to 4 clicks on the rear Whilst the car did handle great before, on smooth roads, it was a little bit harsh on pot holes and joins in the road, but only in the rear Also, my uneducated assumption is you need more dampening in the front compared to the rear, hence the front is set a little harder by 5 Will this help the budget spec BC RS coilovers on bumpy roads, I'm hopeful.....

Cheers for the link, subscribed One of the first ones that came up...LOL https://youtu.be/Tc4Pf3qiAB8?si=jk2dSBAbN9CNyYEh

I wish they advertised and covered production cars Yes, I know there is a series, but without the support from the media it is hidden from view New "Super Cars" is too NASCAR for me, expecially now, with really only 2 contenders I want to watch 4, 6, 8, 10 pots race around together like the old days Yes, I am that old man shouting at clouds

I liked the "adventure" video to find some mountains shaped like the cracker

If you can get access to a guillo (or dremel), and a break press (I've used home made folders out of timber and a few hinges), and a dremel for notching, there is about $10 of alloy and some time involved with making one I've made a few things like this, start with a cardboard template, measure twice, cut once I typically then sand the edges, hit it with wax and grease remover, then wrinkle coat it, you can also add pinch weld to make it prettier As for fittings, plastic push clips work Use the saved money to buy tools Or, make a cardboard templates and get your local metal fabrication joint to knock it out When I was a young lad I was a sheet metal worker, we had heaps of people walking into the shop with small templates people wanted transfered onto steel or alloy, usually paid for in beer >$300 = "Jebus"

And send some oil samples for testing? 🤔.....nope, I'll just keep using until it throws a leg out of bed

I've done a couple of oil changes on a 30 year old petrol Victa that the outlaws use to own, over the 15 years that we have had it I have ever only used whatever engine oil that was on hand, 5w30 to Castrol Edge 10w60 From my findings, of 2 oil changes in it over 15 years, where the outlaws never changed its oil, the first was when we inherited it, to the last, a couple of years ago, the mower doesn't care, as long as it has oil it is happy As for blowby, just stick something thick in it and mow the lawn, or, use a thinner oil and just tell yourself it's a 2 stroke and clean the plug when required, the spark plug in the Victa was last changed 10 odd years ago, and still fires up now after a couple of goes on the cord, if it doesn't start, a quick hit with some wet and dry to clean the spark plug gets it running again I really need to get it some new blades though, the ones on it have been resharpened to the point that they are about half their size and are not really throwing the grass as well as they should As for the carby on it, it has never been touched, although I do run 98 in as well, for all of horsetorques

Should I bring up corner weighing your car where wheel gap means nothing I borrowed some scales from work one day to try and play with it, I even loaded up the drivers seat with 80kg, IIRC no fender gap was the same after trying to balance the weight over the front and rear In the end my head hurt and I just used a tape measure to even up my once "corner weighted" car 🤪

My only regret with the NC MX5 was no space for a spare, even a space saver doesn't fit in I do have a couple of those puncture repair spray cans, but if I get a large puncture, or sidewall damage, I'm screwed until a tilt tray turns up I'm thinking I might get one of those 4WD style of puncture repair kits that have that rope stuff and glue, whilst it will kill any hope of saving a tyre, it might help getting me out from some backwoods road far enough to find a actual tyre shop if the first can of tyre fix doesn't work I'm keen to see how your new toy pans out Uncle Duncan, I'll be moving to the Highlands next year, you'll need to shout out if your heading to Wakefield, whilst I've lost my balls for happy laps, I still love watching those that can

The MX5 is a way better daily than the SS The only real reason to keep the SS is when we go away and pick up the kids, or for extended road trips where we need the extra room for all of Jackies luggagesesezzzz and make up bag, and the 20 pairs of shoes she might need for 7 days away from home, it also has a tow bar which is handy for when we hire box trailers Also I'm to old to be a traffic light hero, plus I like my licence to much, there is also the issue of having 3 NSW police officers in the immediate family who would never stop giving me 5hit if I got done being stupid

Gave the MX5 a detail and checked over everything, only know issue were the discs, which had a lip on both the front and rear, I was going to replace them when I got the new calipers, but forgot, so ordered some new ones today

I agree, but, I am coming to asking myself "should I do it", especially for what I want the car for, as I'm not building a race car, or something that runs 10's in the quarter, in the end how much "power" do I actually need for a "reliable" fun street car, that will only see local streets and country cruises As for the Commodore, and all cars really, and whilst I like the cars I've owned for multiple reasons, and enjoy cruising around in them, I have no real emotional attachments to them, I see them as a toy to play with, or a fun conveyance to get me somewhere In saying this, like everyone knows, I cannot leave any bits that I feel need improvements, but I'm also looking at what I "don't need to do" for a street car, like more power than what is required for the street, big brake kits, body kits, or things that give minimal gains like a aftermarket CAI or ITB's that "bolt straight on" but only give a few hsprs up top for alot of coin......(yes, ITB's do "sound" epic and I admit I was looking into them for a while) Although I am still looking for a detachable hard top for it, it needs to be NC specific though, as NA-NB mount differently, and not alot of the OEM NC ones came into OZ, so far I have not found one available in OZ, there are new aftermarket options available, but, I may need to use poly for the rear screen and sort out something for the rear demister, but I really really want a old OEM one, as for how much a new OEM one costs, let's just say "alot" I haven't checked stock availability of these, or what the shipping is, but yeah...... https://www.garage5.net/softhard-top/mazda-mx5-nc-hard-top-genuine-detachable-optional-extra If anyone has one laying around, of any colour, feel free to send me a msg, I pick up and pay cash now....