The Bogan

Demister, there ain't no mist in my car, condensation yes, should be called "the thing that removes condensation from windows when you leave your windows down on a nice sunny day only for it to rain when your in the office half hour later and your seats get wet". They would need a bigger button though, I suppose it could be abbreviated to "TTTRCFZYWYLTWDOANSDOFITRWYITOHHLAYSGW", that would be much simpler.

$5000 ono Great bike, set up for short rider, 165cm, easily returned to stock height, lots of spares, new chain when last serviced, JARDINE exhaust sounds awesome, near new tyres. Check pics for spares and stuff, helmet and jacket are large, gloves are medium, new standard spare riders seat, plus I have a set of large wet weather riding gear, the pillion seat, a new can of chain lube, a kryptonite lock, plus a kryptonite thing you can bolt to the floor. Basically anything motorcycle related I have is included to sweeten the deal. I grabbed this in April and have only ridden it a couple of times. Sports bikes and arthritis don't make good bed fellows, as the mobility in my neck is limited I cannot turn my head enough to check for blind spots in traffic, which isn't good drills in Sydney traffic. When I first got the bike I took it to Trooper Lu's garage where they checked it all out, they serviced the bike and recommended to replace the chain, which was done. Bike can be inpected at Holsworthy 2173, I'm pretty flex with timings, but if you come to inspect the bike you will need your drivers license to get access to the secured site. I am no real hurry to sell but the price may be slightly negotiable. NO CASH, NO RIDE. Cash buyers only, I am not interested in having the bike shipped, or having low offers via messages, if you are a serious buyer and interested in a ZX6R do yourself a favor and come have a look, it took me months to find one in this condition. The bike was just washed and waxed and the chain was cleaned and lubed. The bike will now sit under its Oxford Aquatex cover in the carport with the Ctek trickle charger on until someone comes and looks at it.

And why do they call coolant coolant, it doesn't help cool, it should be called "slippery stuff that will get you flagged when you dump some at the track". And why do they call shock absorbers shock absorbers, they don't absorb the shock, the springs and tyres do that job, they should be called "bouncy bouncy stoppers". And what about radiators, they're not their to radiate heat, they use convection to dissipate the heat, they should be called "the thing that holds all the slippery stuff that will get you flagged when you dump some at the track ". Disclaimer: I may be looking into this to deeply, whiskey can fix that though, mmmm, whiskey.

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Oil cooler warmer thingie finally showed up, thank Jebus. Finally worked out my camber woes, I haven't got them yet but I at least have made a desision. Hopefully will have rims and suspension bits sorted this month. These are the last bits I'm getting.....seriously, except for maybe......some other stuff

Only a 50 shot so I can lay down some hectic smokescreen, yeah na...

My oil cooler took 8 days to travel 14000 km from Colorado US to Mascot AU and be cleared by customs, the next 8 days it has been "in transit to destination" Trust Australia post to take 8 days to ship something 30 km. It better turn up tomorrow, I wants to fit it on Saturday, I needs it here so I can grab the right hose and fittings. TL;DR: Australia Post is a joke and I'm impatient

Good work isn't cheap, cheap work isn't good. Sometimes the traveling is worth it.

Only a 2 seater, but good off road capability

The car is a blast, not as nimble as my old MX5, it weighs 250kg more than the 5, but a blast none the less, but it is so much more compliant than the 5, the 5 did have BC coils on it though, you felt every bump. I would say it's slightly quicker than the 5 as well. I took a guy from work for a spin, he was saying he couldn't believe I got a car with such little power, after a "spirited" drive around the local "circuit" he changed his mind about the car. As for rim size, the 8" are what it is getting, my main concern is the rubber size and the ability to clear the Brembo's, looks come second, the car don't need any bigger tyres than the 215's on it ATM, going with a 8" will mean a 225 min or 235 max, the 235 will be overkill for the power and weight of the car IMO, but compromises were made and I'm OK with them. I hope my oil warmer/cooler thingie turns up this week, waiting for parts is the arse. In other news I've been playing with my tyre pressures, currently 32F 30R, tyres seem to really like it, I'm still about 5mm away from the little arrows, so -0.5° on the front isn't causing the tyre to try and roll over onto the sidewall, weird, or I'm just not going hard enough yet cornering, I'm trying though.

My 2 cents is anything with a carbie, I've seen a ton of waterpumps running on old 202 motors, hell some old diesel 4 cylinder engine would probably be better torque wise. You could most likely pick up a old banger for a couple of hundred and then sell the L26 and not lose a cent in the process.

When is the next one? Put me in coach

Now with added full size spare bootliner and fixtures, I just need to get the Enkei's now. Oh, and pers number plate, pfft, it's only money.

I'm gonna look at doing some motorkhana in the future, either way, after sleeping on it, I'll grab another 3 RFP-1's in a couple of weeks, skid out the 215's on the Enkei's with some khana and street work and grab some 235's when the 215's are kaput. 1 OEM will be delegated as a spare, the other 3 will be sold to recoup some of the outlay. From googling around people are looking for full sizes spares that fit over Brembo's, they should sell quickly, I hope....

So, IMO, one of the major issues with new cars nowadays is the use of space savers tyres or, like my 86, the crap puncture repair kits. So, I have been looking at options to get a full sized spare in the boot, I asked toyota how much for the same rim I now have, $1000, bugger me sideways, I said no to that straight up, none are for sale used anywhere I can find, the GTS 17" rim doesn't clear the Brembo's either. So, I went looking for any new or used cheap aftermarket rims that would suit, nothing cheap of either new or used. So, I got the shits and grabbed the cheapest rim I could find new that would fit, a Enkei RFP1, she is a 17 x 8 +45 , but I'm gonna stick a 215 that I have from when I replaced the Michelins with the Hankooks and stick it in the boot for now. Once I get the tyre fitted I'm gonna stick it on and see how it looks with a 215 on it. More than likely (read: I'm gonna) will get another 3 soon and replace all of the OEM 17 x 7 with the 17 x 8 Enkei's, but only if it doesn't look shit stretched on. I wish I would have sorted this out before getting the new 215 Hankooks though, dooh.

Mudflaps are a go go, should see about 5 hp from these puppies. I'm surprised how good they look, with all the other black bits, IMO it looks much better with than without. Plus my bike, the little green thing is the awesome.

I expect it would have a full service history, angel tears for coolant, honey from the gods as lube... hehe..lube... Nothing that some clay baring and love cannot fix...

Picked up some new OEM mudflaps. $85 Strangely the cheapest I could find them was at Sydney city toyota. Pick them up on Thursday. Also pick up my front lower camber bolts on Thursday, this will be interesting, what I can finally get out of the stock setup using just camber bolts is anyones guess. Hopefully my oil to water cooler/warmer/thingie turns up this week, it will give my some fun playing with the car on the weekend. I'm still trying to work out what rear camber solution, the lower adjustable arms look easy and relatively cheap enough, lowers give advertised adjustment of +/- 2.5°. You can get upper bushings with camber bolts but although they are slightly cheaper there's alot more work to install, and max advertised adjustment is around +/- 0.75°. I only need 0.5° to be able to even things out, -1.5° at the rear, currently its like L -1.4° and R -2.1°. I will probably be lazy and get the lower arms.

I've fixed worst rust myself in a weekend, sure its not a pro job, but it looked 100% better than what it was. Nothing that some prep, putty and paint cannot fix, for a few years at least. I estimate $100 tops and a long weekend.

Welcome Asking questions on the interwebs can be fraught with danger, for every answer to someting you ask you might get 1 out 5 who actually know what they are talking about, hell, I'm just a crazy old guy who drives a 86 now My 2 cents Priorities 1. Take it to a shop and get it looked at, the last thing you need to do is break your car, whilst the car has problems minimise the times you drive it, and keep off boost when you do, a "good" shops that won't rape your wallet are few and far between, good shops out there, just be wary 2. Full service, engine oil/filter, transmission and diff, coolant, radiator flush, airfilter, bleed the brakes, does it have service history, if not, I would throw on a new timing belt and water pump, the coils on these cars can give the symptoms you speak of, but before you replace the coils take it to a shop to diagnose, it gets costly when you just replace parts willy nilly 3. Sort out the rust, is there more rust, I would wire wheel the rusty bits, hit it with some rust converter and then prime, putty, prime and paint it myself to start with, a pro job can get very costly, you can do a good job yourself if you do good prep 4. Don't waste too much money on the car, it's old and they can soon become a money pit 5. Drive the car As for your wheels, I would rather focus on good tyres, but if you need to swap out the rims have a look in the for sale section, wheel whores are always swapping out rims, and there's lots of people stripping their old cars, R33 GTR rims look good and there's lots of good rubber in the size, same for R34 GTT rims, good rims and they don't cost much Spend the next month or 2 browsing this forum, everyone has done everything to this platform, the good, as well as the bad Enjoy deciphering the good from the bad, most importantly, dont listen to crazy old guys who drive 86's

I wouldn't touch a Holden with a 10 foot barge pole. My suggestion is to take a LEVORG GT-S for a spin, yes it has CVT, but the CVT is nothing like alot of people claim, a guy at work has one, it's a really sorted car. Plus, when you add up what you get for your money, there really isn't anything out there to match the safety and features, plus the resale value won't drop like a brick, re:Holden, and you don't have to put up with the non existant after sales service if something goes wrong, which, being a Holden, is highly probable. Both the LEVORG and the V6 holden calais wagon cost near on the same. Don't forget to use a broker if your buying new, I've saved thousands using one.

T51R (800 or 1000hp variant)? Have you been in a 3.0l with a T51 on it, IMO, for a street car, there are alot of other turbo's that would suit a street car better, not saying it won't be fun, but you won't win any races off the lights. What drivetrain you looking at? I had a 25/30 built a few years ago, just on 500hpatw, as long as you have a big budget for all the bits that the torque eats you should be right, plus a brake upgrade, OEM brakes are rubbish, OEM gearbox won't last long, at least a R33 GTR diff bolts straight in. I would Google some engine building shops and go check out their stuff in person, when I just googled there was 14 in the Brisbane area alone. I would lay at least 10-15k minimum for them to build the bare long motor. Here's some food for thought http://www.lewisengines.com.au/rb-nissan/ If you use a tuning shop to do it, they will just send it to one of these joints most likely, and add their 20% or whatever on top, hopefully they don't send it to a mate in his garage to build. In the end you can get out of it much much cheaper by buying a car that is already built and just give the motor a refresh if needed, either that or your gonna drop a shit tin of money on a car that may have cost you 50 to 60k to buy and build, that is in the end is worth 20k at most, if your lucky, and I mean really lucky. ???

I use JAX at Liverpool, usually $60 for full alignment to my specs. Only issue I ever had was the steering wheel was off center once, they fixed it straight away. With the laser gear it makes doing an alignment (EDIT: should be) idiot proof. Hell, I've watched the guys do it so many times I reckon I could give it a crack, it ain't rocket science.

If I was gonna, but I'm not, this would float my boat.

So, front camber... From the googles I have found that I can also get lower adjustable camber bolts for $50. I'm going to grab some next week and see what that gives me. The top adjustable bolts gave me -0.5° from the 2mm change, I'm wondering how much 2mm will give me in the lower bolt position. I'm praying to the geometry gods that the lower position will give me more than the -0.5° that the top gave me. Realistically though, the difference between top and bottom bolts is around 100mm, geometry wise I have no clue if that will make any difference ? I'm hoping the worst case senario is -1.0° with the top and bottom bolts, any more than that is a bonus. BUT.... From the googles it's looking hopefull, one person claimed that they got -2.5° on stock suspension with both upper and lower adjustable bolts, I'm taking that claim with a grain of salt though. My goal is to get -1.75°, I guess I'll find out soon enough how close to that I can get. Fingers crossed. In other news, in track mode with the nanny's turned way down, the ease of getting the bum out is amazeballs, you can fell the nanny's trying to correct the oversteer, but not enough to actually straighten the car out. The nanny's do start working harder when your near full lock, I does straighten the car up, but not aggressively, which, for my driving skills, I see that as a positive thing. Having the car swap ends is tedious.