ka86

I'm pretty sure they are the same as both (I think) have 10mm thread.

Avoid exhaust wrap. The ramifications of it is worse on headers but still wouldn't wrap it around the exhaust system (Google and you will see why). You can spend money on sound proof but maybe just replace the muffler and resonator combo? Muffler will help reuduce the noise and resonator will help lower/raise the ocative of the sound depending on the size/build quality etc.

It is a common problem. The actuator itself is not locking when using the remote. The bushes and rods wear out. That's why you can hear the small click of it triggering but not actually locking. Common problem and a newer OEM version was released. Not saying it is not your remote but it sounds alot like a faulty actuator. It will lock manually right? Price wise roughly: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE-OEM-INFINITI-2003-2004-G35-COUPE-RIGHT-DOOR-LOCK-ACTUATOR-BRAND-NEW-V35-/150724584284?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2317e2a35c There is a DIY fix to mock up new rods but if your not confident than don't try. http://g35driver.com/forums/interior-exterior/347409-5-door-lock-actuator-fix-updated-thread.html And if you search google along the lines of 'G35 Door Actuator problem' or something like that, you will see it's a known problem. eg; http://g35driver.com/forums/g35-coupe-v35-2003-07/375728-problem-driver-side-door-locking-unlocking.html This is the guide: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/315036-diy-v35-door-lock-actuator-power-window-removal/ As for insatllation wise, can't say. Depends on where you take it to. Seems to take anywhere between 2-4 hours depending on the person. Different places charge their own hourly rate. Where are you based anyways? You would have to ring around. I also am having the same issue. It wasn't responding for awhile.. now it is working fine. However I will have to replace the actuator eventually. My issue was that it didn't work on 2 x OEM remotes and 2x After Market Alarm FOBs. Can't really think of any other reason it is not working.

Sounds like your drivers actuator is playing up. If so, there is a thread on how to change it... But if your not confident than don't attempt it. Google it, common problem.

www.japanparts.com/db/parts_detail.php?NUMBER=00004337&VOLUME=083-011-045&DEALER=5&CAR=76&MIDDLE=2&SMALL=13&MAKER=11&VOLKEY=&SEARCH_DEALER=5&SEARCH_CAR=76&SEARCH_MIDDLE=2&SEARCH_SMALL=13&SEARCH_MAKER=&SEARCH_VOLKEY=&SEARCH_page=2&submit.x=48&submit.y=7 www.japanparts.com/db/parts_detail.php?NUMBER=00004336&VOLUME=083-011-044&DEALER=5&CAR=76&MIDDLE=2&SMALL=13&MAKER=11&VOLKEY=&SEARCH_DEALER=5&SEARCH_CAR=76&SEARCH_MIDDLE=2&SEARCH_SMALL=13&SEARCH_MAKER=&SEARCH_VOLKEY=&SEARCH_page=2&submit.x=48&submit.y=7 www.japanparts.com/db/parts_detail.php?NUMBER=00004338&VOLUME=083-011-046&DEALER=5&CAR=76&MIDDLE=2&SMALL=13&MAKER=11&VOLKEY=&SEARCH_DEALER=5&SEARCH_CAR=76&SEARCH_MIDDLE=2&SEARCH_SMALL=13&SEARCH_MAKER=&SEARCH_VOLKEY=&SEARCH_page=2&submit.x=48&submit.y=7 Haven't seen but thought I would post them up, random Nissan options. There are more on the site.

They also have a carbon fibre insert for the standard LSD.

If you go onto the Nismo website, it has 2 types of lsd for the V35 (There's even a full pdf instruction guide as well). Nice car btw, boosted?

Yeah as mentioned before, can feel less flexing. You would feel more of a difference with a front brace vs rear brace however together they will make a difference with reducing flexing when cornering. Will update once I put the front brace in.

http://b2autodesigns.com/ Can't remember the shipping cost. Can try to dig up the quote I got for shipping as I can't remember off the top of my head. :-)

As the title says, installed my rear GT Spec Brand Rear Brace. This does not connect to the rear struts, rather it connects directly to the Chassis (350Z style). Install is very straight forward bar the awkward twisting for your back in the tight boot space. Didn't intend originally to make a install thread but as I started, took pics so decided to make one to show others. I didn't take that many pics however the install is very easy.. WHAT YOU WILL NEED: 17MM/12MM Open ended and ring spanner. Socket Set (really only ended up using the 12mm Socket. Sharp Knife. Drill with High Tensile 8MM drill bit. Was I think $8 from Bunnings. Vacuum/Brush to clean out the metal shards from drilling. Flat Head screw drivers and or cowl removers. Difficulty: Pretty easy, hence the box doesn't come with instructions. Step 1: Empty boot and drop rear seat. Step 2: Remove the rear trim and upper trim. You can either remove the entire thing, or just enough to swing the side trim out to gain access behind it. Step 3: The bracket for the brace already incorporates a mounting point on the chassis. You will see it. The bottom of the mount will bolt up to it (2 bolts). It is a tight squeeze behind it to get the nut in there. What I did was put the nut in, added the mount and than slid the bolt in once lined up. Start on the furtherest side of the mount (closest to the side of the car). Step 4: Once the bottom of the mount is in, line it up to the chassis and drill a hole. Insert bolt/nut. Best to put the spanner on one side, and tighten with the socket. Tighten up one mount completely. Repeat the same for the other side that you do, HOWEVER, don't tighten it up or drill out yet. Put the bottom bolts in and hand tighten enough for the mount to move around a bit. Insert the brace on each side and loosely tighten. Once it is in, you can than drill out the top of the mount. This ensures a good fit as you don't want to tighten the mount only to find that the bar doesn't line up properly. There is a bit of leeway as well. Step 5: Once each mount is in, put trim back on and cut out to shape. My first cut wasn't that neat (left mount). You can trim it as you please. Sharp knife is really all you need, the trim isn't that thick. Step 6: Insert brace again and tighten. The bottom is a Allen Key i.e hexagonal bit. I tightened mine till it spun on the bottom (without holding the bottom) Once done, go for a drive. Return and re-tighten. I used pliers and tightened it as much as I can. Step 7: Vacuum metal shards and replace trim/carpet etc. I will probably end up covering the holes a bit/neatening it up a bit. Feedback: Can definitely feel less flexing in the rear. The front now feels like its understeering a bit.. clearly the brace is doing its job.. I have a front brace to put on, just have to mod the bracket a bit. Hope this helps for anyone interested.

As others have said, isolate it by trying in another car/try a different charger in yours. If another charger works in your car than your camera charger is faulty.. Usually the end of the charger unscrews off to reveal the fuse which may have blown.. If its heating up, its getting power.

I'm in the U.S atm. How much is the Meguiar's in Australia? I bought this http://www.fastbritereviews.org/ for around $12. Tempted to buy the 3M restoration kit to compare as its around $20. The Meguiar's is around $6 though they also sell the full Meguiar's restoration kit as well.. would be interested in buying one other, maybe putting tape through the middle and try both on each side.. or maybe not.. There is so much to buy here lol, maybe if I have the chance may get the G35 Battery Trim/Cover which will save on shipping. Wouldn't mind buying one from a wrecked G rather than new.

I was considering Just Jap (I agree, they were awesome to deal with) but too lazy to get the bearing pressed out.. its been like that for a lil bit but could be worn down. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OEM-INFINITI-03-07-G35-C-FRONT-AXLE-WHEEL-HUB-BEARING-/200618556964?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2eb5cc3e24 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/G35-V35-GENUINE-NISSAN-OEM-FRONT-WHEEL-HUB-ASSEMBLY-/150513047552?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item230b46d800 Obviously better than paying Extra $$ from Aus Nissan. I am in the U.S at the moment and considered getting this http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?searchType=global&N=0&Ntt=HA590027&submit= as it will save me shipping costs however don't want to risk missing delivery lol so will maybe will end up going the Ebay purchase. In the meantime, love how things in general are cheaper here. EG Meguiar's Gold Class Shampoo at Super Cheap was like $24.. and in Walmart it was $6.97 + taxes!!

Don't have time to check NCOP but IIRC, I'm pretty sure 200 cells is the lowest you can go.

Hey mate, maybe I missed the price but out of curiousity, how much for the Hankook tyres? :-)

Yeah I know that the cars have to be back to OEM standard however Diamondwood did say his was complied to begin with.. though like you said To confirm though is the rule that after compliance the car has to be completely stock for registration purposes (first time registration)? I know compliance makes it stock for approval but I would of thought that aslong as the car conforms to RWC, registration shouldn't be an issue unless WA is stricter on this. If this applies to first time registration of vehicles that have just arrived than ok (if WA says so) but would this extend to vehicles that are already in Oz i.e Brand new Holden that has had aftermarket stuff put on but does pass the RWC and going for first registration?

Also who told you, you had to change all those items? Ring up the Transport Department twice to confirm. Car has been complied hence was approved to be kept in Australia so really, you should only have to pass a RWC to register.

Wait.. your car was complied to begin with right? Looking at your other post you mentioned it was complied in Melbourne.. did you ever register it in Melbourne? Don't know about WA but in QLD, to register a car (be it local or import), its just a matter of passing a RWC. From your other post. The car has already been complied so you would (you will have to confirm with WA folks but it should be the same) only have to pass a RWC. S/C is not (in QLD anyways) an unroadworthy modification as long as its done properly. The Recaro if it is not ADR conforming that yes it won't pass RWC. As long as the aftermarket wheels and tyres are RWC (that is conform with rolling diameter of tyres/tread etc) than you shouldn't need to change them. Fenders? Really? Unless they are some dodgy built fenders (material used) than that makes no sense... along with the INGs spoiler. Momo steering if it complies with ADR than should be fine... if not that yeah you will have to change it for RWC same with the lights (if they for example the U.S ones or do not conform). Lastly.. Stereo? Are they serious? Since when does (unless some uber dodge duct tape install) a stereo fail a RWC lol. To be honest.. the fact they want you to return to OEM sounds like they want to comply it again.. but it has been done and you will have paperwork/plate/sticker to confirm this so I would think you would only now need a RWC to register just like other states.. unless the WA folk can shed some light into this.

Hey Moo, was yours privacy glass or tint?

My understanding is that FACTORY rear PRIVACY glass (any darkness) is ok under ADR (look at new Pajeros, XR5s etc). You can't however tint the rear as dark as you want if the glass was clear to begin with so ALL of the windows have to comply (35% IIRC). I know, abit strange that factory dark under the limit is fine but doing it yourself later is not allowed. There are exceptions for older vehicles (I think pre-1993/4 could have dark all round).

Edit: I just re-read what I posted and realised that was correct in assuming the hub and bearing are pressed together (has been for me with my other cars) but SAU wouldn't let me edit that part. I'm just going to buy the hub/bearing as one piece. Though current hub isn't bad thought would change it. I don't see why the G35 hub I listed would be different to the V but can anyone confirm? Only asking as the Fulcrum listed bearing for the G35 was apperently different (though think it may have been an incorrect listing) :-)

Hey guys, Car has been making a noise at the front left for awhile. Suspected wheel bearing. Don't have the time to change it myself so I went to a place in Slacks Creek. They had ordered a bearing from Fulcrum (I know its cheaper overseas but needed it resolved asap) but when they got it, it was too large. I wanted to check, is the wheel bearing assembly machine pressed to the hub? When I was looking up replacements, found that alot of G35 and 350Z owners replaced the front hub/wheel bearing assembly as one piece eg; http://www.nicoclub....iti-g35-g3.html After much searching, I rang Just Jap in Sydney. They said they have the front wheel bearing assembly for a V35. It is just the assembly, not the hub as well. It is something like this: http://justjap.com/s...&cat=375&page=1 Apparently they are similar to the M35. The guy will look at it tomorrow when they get in the warehouse but does it have to be machine pressed to the hub? I know the assembly is mounted at the rear of the front bracket. Does that mean hub can sit on the end of it (unpressed)? I would think it would have to be pressed in (will see if the shop has a press). It was the only place that had the bearing assembly for the V35... are the 350z the same? Worse case if not, can the hub/wheel assembly from a G35 fit a V35 (Brembo)? EG; http://www.autoparts...Ntt=Wheel%20Hub Checked out OEM, Nissan want over $400 for the hub/wheel bearing assembly as a one piece. This was for the 350z though... Do you think it be best to replace the hub anyways? Don't think its bad though haven't looked at the condition of the inner circle of the hub. Worse case if its just easier to buy as one.. would the following fit? If it did (can't see why not) that would make things easier. http://www.ebay.com....=item2eb5cc3e24 I'm pretty sure I have bought from them before. Not sure if this is genuine Nissan (alot of their parts are) but than again, doesn't necessarily mean non OEM is worse. Another link of a pre-pressed hub: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/G35-V35-GENUINE-NISSAN-OEM-FRONT-WHEEL-HUB-ASSEMBLY-/150513047552?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item230b46d800 Don't know how the Fulcrum bearing was too big. Also anyone got a part listing for the bush located from the suspension to chassis (Not Lower Control Arm)? Cheers guys

Hey NightCrawler, Before you had a 3" mid pipe/resonator put in.. Was the mid pipe 2.5" inch to 3"? Was there much of a difference? Ideally larger would be better for top end though don't want to shift the powerband too high as I will have standard cams. Spoke to Mick at Pipewerx. Awesome guy and have had him work on my previous cars and has always been straight up. I was questioning him on whether it would be better to cut the current Fujitsubo Mid pipe and put a 3" OR leave it as it is and put the Megan Y pipe and his response was on the standard N/A specs.. Won't make a massive difference. Obviously Top end would be better though not really redlining every shift lol. He said I think it was the VY or VE SS that he said had 2.5" to 2.25" back to 2.5" which apperently on the Dyno gave the better mid range. So am thinking of doing it and maybe changing it down the track. Just don't want to effect flow by restricting though haven't heard any complaints byt the G35 boys. May get him to fit (cbf as don't have a hoist) it (he didn't mind.. Could of said otherwise about the mid pipe). I noticed the Fujitsubo Y pipe was the same so prob done to keep some mid range power.

Just doing some quick research.. The Fujitsubo I have appears to be a 60.5mm (almost 2.5inch) to the resonator than 76.3mm (3inch to the muffler.) My gripe is that the Megan Y Pipe is 2.5 converging to 3inches. This wouldn't be good as it will go 2.5inch to 3 to 2.5 to 3inch which will do wonders for flow!! I have seen people online mating them up and not having a problem however don't want to restrict flow so may go around exhaust shops to see how much to cut the Fujitusbo resonator and put a 3inch inlet/outlet and possibly either making a Y Pipe or ordering the Megan and getting them to put it on. I got a quote for around $850 for the Megan Y Pipe and Berk Delivered to Brisbane. Thoughts?

^^^ Wow.. you have had a Judas of a time haven't you!! Still considering to get the Megan Y Pipe and now getting the Berk HCS's.. was going to get just the Y pipe and get a local exhaust shop to mock up some High Flow cats to suit however this may work out cheaper.. I was going to go 3" Hi flow but don't want to shift the power band too high seeing as I will run standard cams so will probably do this: Standard Headers > 2.5" Berk HFC's> Megan Y Pipe (2.5inch inlet to 3 inch outlet)> Connect to my Fujitusbo Legalis (which I believe is 3" all the way.. will look up specs and measure my self). I was considering the Fujitsubo Y Pipe but seems to be same specs as the Megan and the Megan is cheaper.