NismoSTune

OS twins are scrub too. The larger input shaft is nice but isn't that necessary. I had to upgrade my clutch hub which was available for my Carbonetic twin clutch. Fits good. I don't think they can mix much but PPG 1-3 dog and 4-5 synchro (or was it 1-4 dog) was a kit I thought and is ok on the street. Big power most times need big gearbox sadly.

I went with Rotora 6 piston front 355mm and 4 piston rear 330mm. Seems ok. Appears to be the same quality as brembo but was only $4500us so cheaper.

So about the gearbox, though I'm sure this is propaganda and maybe even doctored or false (lol) but this video helped me choose a PPG helical dog box. All-in the thing ran $12k usd PPG 1-5 hel-dogs Billet forks Billet OS giken center plate Billet large spline input shaft New bearings Labour for shepherd transmissions to install. Shipping from USA to Canada including customs I have give or take the same power (2.8L also) and tall gears. I have yet to drive it (machining engine) but should be ok... Hope I don't need to rebuild it too often, I took a huge paycut and have 2 kids now lol. I am currently looking for gearbox cooling options and expansion tank (leading cause for PPG fails is supposedly oil starvation which is surprisingly not warranted, word is oil gets slung into the breather and spit out until the level is low enough to cause problems.... I dunno. I got tired of swapping stock gearboxes... I have flatshift and launch control. So we'll see how to goes.

Old thread but how did this ever work out? I have the same exact problem but with poly driftworks bushes.....

I'd say Evo, those things are lighter and handle better with not much more lag on that turbo (compared to the gtr)

Why not stick with stock valves. They're good to some 800 bhp. When upgrading valves, it's not just about buying the $3-700 valves but also the labour of installing them. I have a stroker kit and 700whp turbo kit (with many support mods) and stock valves are fine. A stock head can also flow up to 550whp which I've personally seen/driven. If you fried a valve then sure, upgrade but unless you're punching out some serious power and have a good budget, then stay stock. Having bigger valves without other serious mods won't do much I don't think.

I'd leave the head stock for 500whp. Many examples out there with 500+whp gtr with -5s. Why "fix" it if you don't need to, unless it's cheap like a few $100. 2 cents.

Oh man that's gonna be............... On a 2.6L

I use 1 tomei and 2 bosch 044s but I'm just saying that if someone wants cheap, there's no cheaper than 2 stockers lol

I meant that I don't have to use my titanium parts and just use custom SS.

twin intank stock pumps. seen a car do 865whp on this setup.

Okada projects plasma coil packs. 0hp, engine is in limbo waiting on machining (tomei rb28, n1 block, ppg dog box, twin efr turbos)...

Awesome, I'll check around local shops... It's just titanium, I can go back to SS...

I don't think it was about the JDM love... I saw a shiny SS twin 80mm to 90mm downpipe for bigger twin turbos, so I got it but didn't realized it would be tricky for find a 90mm decat. The midori outlet flange is nearly 4". I could probably get a 3.5" welded on I guess. Being from Canada, the options aren't always great for imports so I end up needing to ship.

Greasing up parts inside the combustion area is a cool idea.... And it seems to work. I hadnt jimmied much else on my car so I bought a better ignition system and solved my misses. Good to 1000hp (though I'm far from this) and 1.4mm gaps now (running 1.2mm at this time). Bazinga

Hello, I bought a 90mm midori downpipe where I was told that I simply needed a custom decat pipe but I can't seem to find out... My current decat pipe is an 80mm tomei one so I'm not too found of modifying it. What have people done to match the 90mm downpipe to an 80mm exhaust system? Concentric reducer in the decat?

I went with Whiteline all around (diff are solid bushes). The only issue I had with them is that the subframe sits very high now, so much that I think I need spacers made up (1-1.5") to drop it back down to stock as it affects my antisquat. Can't find any info as to it being normal or not.

3.5" would be nice but the nice tomei TI is like 3-1/8" or something

Too much boost and too much stock ignition system? Lol

As per expextations the Evos kicked butt though its too bad there were few GTRs in the upper positions. What happened to bright's car I wonder? The car wth twin -5 did substantially better... Did he have issues? His car was y favorite going in! The s13 did sick we'll! Poor nemo couldn't hold a headgasket...

Wow you're paranoid lol. Maybe they'll fly over from the us and rob you of you "awesome" parts... Haha. They just want your info for proper filing and reference so there are no mistakes (numbers can be typo'd, full names, not as much).... I'm sure they won't come haunt you if later decided to go for a cheaper Honeywell turbo

Alas no I don't work for full race, I'm just a guy who Got tired of the "run of the mill" Turbos (my new honeywell -5 turbos after 1200 kms had enough shaft play to justify rebuilds, wasnt even through break in) and decided to really research into these turbos. I've talked to full race lots, along with some happy customers and found few negatives. Honestly, a turbo like Honeywell or precision is proven and still capable of impressive results but for those than want to step up (while not holding back too hard on the wallet) have the options of things like the EFR. They aren't light years ahead of the competition but id guess they are edging most of many points... That's all. The dual boost turbo from Honeywell will be cool should it ever come out but if they want to make an impact on the market, they need to prepare and plan their release better than the last mega release and really seek out and show live proof of their product. After 3 years or so of the EFR, there are still a limited numbers of users out there that haven't shown much other than a handful of videos and dyno graphs (which mean nothing for this turbo when compared to another) so it's tough to make a clear judgment. This weekend will be a big deal for EFR IMO as there are lots of competitors with them in the WTAC. It's unfortunate the ark design gtr flopped but they weren't going to keep up with the nemo... As much as I love GTRs, that Evo is stupid fast and it now has an EFR.

I'm curious... If your said setup worked so well, why look for a non ready setup that will cost more anyway. If it ain't bad, why replace it?Heck, I'd even fix you "giant" intercooler leak and see if you get full boost by 3500 and more peak power. Upgrading a setup because you want more, when you have problems with other parts, isn't going to solve your lack of As for liking the "look" of the 7170, that's cool but that's based on your understanding of its potential (which LIKE MINE boils down to an internet derived opinion) where the info that Goeff gave you is based on years of R&D, actual usage and educated opinion/knowledge. That and the turbos he mentioned are ready now and are already proven and in living proof somewhere out there, unlike the 7170 or w/e it is. Just trying to help out, not roast anyone

I agree with Geoff on all those points. The only big drawback when comparing to another turbo is if you have no choice but to buy the EFR specific manifold ( should it not fit your normal boat anchor one). But hey, it's Engineered For Racing. Not Engineered for Cheap budget Build and Cool dyno Numbers ask ANY person with an EFR(s) what they think after coming from Honeywell, FP, precision and other turbos, you will most likely find no complaints other than past delays when ordering and steep initial cost

Depends where you are.... In Ex: a quote From the US to canada was $250 + about $350 worth of customs.