NismoSTune

Located in Canada, will pay postage/shipping costs. If an R34 power steering pump is the same, that will do too. Thanks.

Ah thanks for the feedback on torques. So when you say locally, what shop or make of hose was that (you can pm if it'll insult someone on a public forum...) As for the fittings, I plan on using the hose ends sold with the hose but will attempt to transition to my earls front lines with unions....... Might have us O ringed -an threads... My that's a small return. When you idle or cruise, doesn't 99% of the fuel return? Those pumps should be overkill on a single -6 (return) no?

Ah good stuff. They seem to have what I'm after but can't seem to find what make of hose and fittings they use. I currently have earls lines and need the Teflon lines for the trunk only so it all has to fr snug. Can't seem to find many -8 fittings for earls -8 Teflon lines... On that note, maybe someone can confirm what I'm thinking here. I've done some searching but didnt come up with much. My car is modded a fair bit but the fuel worries me... So, for 650whp (so I don't have to upgrade a 3rd time when I change the turbo down the road), will twin -6An feeds (out of twin 044s/ 3L swirl pot) and -8 return be ok for flow? Using HKS fuel rail and ID 1000cc injectors with tomei lift pump. Would I need a -10 return? Back on topic, anyone recommend a good fuel cooler for the -8 or -10 return? Checking out setrab for a cooler. Our tuners around here get us into the low 10 to high 9:1 afr (on 94 pump) at wot, so my fuel is taxed haha

So I need some fuel system parts. Not much going on here in Canada or the US as far as I can find. Torques U.K (ebay shop) sells what I'm after but I can't find reliable reviews. Are their parts really comparable to Aeroquip/earls and are their pumps legit Bosch 044s? Thanks guys. Setup is overkill for 600whp but our tuners suck as does our fuel lol need to go rich. http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Torques-U-K/_i.html?_fsub=1978723012 They would have everything but a cooler fo me...

Quite an unreal project my man!! I love the attention to detail! Now a quick question if you don't mind (and you're welcome to answer by PM if it's private lol) What make of hose is that and where did you get it from? I've been hunting for some -8AN teflon lined hose and fittings for some time but can't seem to find both with the right fittings... They're speed connect ends aren't they? Franc from Canada!!!

If anyone could confirm that the R33 floor mats fit R32, I'd be game for the mats!

Been a while since the last bump but is anything still available? Willing to ship to Canada? my expense of course.

Why not go with RE11?

Had my manifold powder coated but the Paint shop has lost my Nismo intake plenum Nismo badge....... Need one ASAP if that's possible, not looking to spend $1800 again on a new plenum for a simple badge haha. Help Seriously need this ASAP.

Looking for full starter or just the solenoid that bolts up to the starter motor (where the connections are). Not looking for the big bulky starter than come from other Nissans. Here's a possible part number: 23300-20P05 or 20P00

Looking for R33 or R34 GTR diff output shafts. The short shaft/5 bolt flanges only please.

BUMP!

I need some R33 or R34 differential flanges. Do you know part numbers to the coupe diff at all? I'm after these 38220-12U00 and 12U01

Oh, if I can't find the parts, I'll entertain R33/R34 full rear diffs...

So I bought a diff which doesnt fit my 91 R32 GTR so easily but the price was right. Need these parts please. I was told late R32s, R33s and R34s have these. I'll take new or used. Help! Parts #s as follows. Rear diff flanges (30 spline?) which connect the rear axleshafts to the diff. Right: 38220-12u00 Left: 38220-12u01

Gotta revive this one, sorry guys. I bought an R34 BMC (supposedly), ABS (2 ports) for my R32 gtr last year. Went to install it and fits great HOWEVER the level sensor wire connector is on the left side, not the right and is a different style connector. It's a 17/16 BMC with a black cap. Is this something that's easy to fix? Can't seem to find what kind of connector I need. According to the part number I could find, I think it's an R33 gtr BMC. Anyways, what should I do? I need fluid level protection.

Not sure if this is in the right section... Here's the story. I have an accusump which I'd like to know what it's air pressure is from the cab. Anyways, since I have a new oil pressure transducer, I still have my functional OEM one and I don't like seeing a dead gauge in my main cluster so what better use that having it tell me what my accusump is doing. Question is, will this bugger read air pressure, though it's an oil pressure sensor? Pressure is pressure but is there a seal issue or plunger problem? Help! If this can't work, any one know what the voltage or current range is on the OEM gauge so I can calibrate an replacement transducer? Odd question yes but I can't stand dead gauges in my dash. No, I don't have another place to tap for a second oil pressure sensor.

WTB: R33/R34/350Z/G35 brake master cylinder connector, that's the one for the brake fluid level sensor. I picked up an R33 BMC for my R32 GTR but it's a different connector so I need the male side of the connector (harness side). I'm guessing it'll need to be from one of the mentioned cars, part out maybe. Unless someone knows the Nissan part number? Thanks!

Are all BM57 the exact same? I bought a BM57 for my R32 and thought it would be direct fit but it's not, the fluid level sensor is on the other side and is a different wire connector.... If it were just a connector issue, I'm ok with that but if the brake bias is different between different BM57, then I'm in trouble... Maybe someone could find where to buy the connector and I'll just solder it? The one I bought is: BM57. ABS. The only other stamps I see: H30 and 24U20

Okada USA. Pretty sweet setup however for the cost, it was tough to justify. The gains aren't as obvious until you make some serious power and start having ignition issues. The coils look exactly like OEM or splitfire ones other than the okada name plates so it's tough to say if they really did much to them. Most likely better quality parts and more wire wraps on the secondary winding...

Won't get into the story but here's what I'm after. No opinions please, just facts so I don't get confused. Here's the block tag (05U) Normally known as Standard block. Here's the serial number location though there isn't one and it doesn't look like it was modified so to speak. Here's where I may be confused. I thought the Nur engines were ALL N1 blocks (24U) but I was told this is a Nur block, something about having no serial number which in my mind all new blocks come with no serial number meaning this would be a simple standard block which didn't come in a car? Anyone know the facts? Thanks.

Ya, forgot to mention that the split fire are OEM direct replacement and ignitor is still used. As for R34 harness, it's not needed. My R32 has Okada coils and they sent a harness with the coilpacks.

There sure is. Okada project plasma direct ignition coils. They're about $1100 USD. Cheaper to go with Split fire coils which I've seen as low as $400 USD.

I purchased an RB26 bare block which has 05U stamped on one side but there is no serial number on the other side, next to the RB26 stamp. I was told it was a Nur but I thought all Nur engines were N1? Anyone know something about this?

What's the bung like thing in the outlet for? Air intake sensor?