sweetr33

out of interest what was your gap with ur iridiums? I ran iridiums in my Rb25 and after a week started to wonder why it was dull, put ngk coppers- bcpr7es plus in and the thing picked up performance in all areas of the rev range and under normal driving conditions, the coppers were pregapped to .8 whereas my iridiums were a 1.1 gap. Gap being the drama. I do believe u can get iridiums pregapped to .8 also but i would bother personally, costs me $18 for a whole set of new coppers. Im happy to change them every service i do to be safe.

im currently in the build of my Rb25/26 and we ported my head at home. Mainly concerntrating on the factory casting dags on the inside of both intake and exhaust ports. Also on exhaust side of head there is a lump in exhaust port, i was told to grind that smooth also and thats what i did, i have a feeling that it was there to speed up flow of exhaust gas into turbocharger to help initial spooling but this fela builds some tough imports like a 523hp rb25 r33 and more so i figured what he told me was alrite to do.

this is interesting, i have heard nothing but bad reports about the 2540 and all reports hint towards the lag factor for a turbo that is only a mild bolt on being too much. But then again there are ways to improve response. I think it does come down to personal preferances at the end of the day. One may chose a hks item and one may chose a trust, may have identical setups but the driving characteristics that each individual wants are different hence the difference in choice of turbocharger/setup.

definately alot of research on air flow characteristics and pressures etc.

looks nice, i cant see an adaptor plate in there did u just weld the runners the plenum? Did The place u took it too have any dramas doing it?

still stock internals? Stock cams? Nice list so far, keep it up n good luck mate

300kw's is my power goal eventually also. Sounds like an awesome whack of power.,. As for bolt on turbo i have witnessed some TD06's on rb25's and they go well. IO have been in a r33 which had a HKS 3037s and microtech and cams etc and it made 350hp at wheels on 1 bar. Was rather quick but very wheelspiny. guess its personal choice on turbos.

we had sorta similar drama in a mates rb25det cefiro, was set on 17degrees but had flat spot upt it slighty to around 20 and the flat spot was gone, although i dont know about the early flame font bull shit, any sort of uncontrolled burning is considered pre-ignition or detonation so i dunno what he is on

Am wondering if the greddy inake plenum for rb25 come holes for the injectors or do holes need to be drilled in it??? Also what happens to the air bleed and inlet manifold cooling? When u buy the plenum kit from internet does it come with everything needed to replace stock inlet plenum?

depending on where u cut n solder they will recieve the same current/amps as the resistance before the coil is still the same. I cant imagin there would be much drama with this but i would look into getting splitfire coils for it. Less hassle then.

wat was the outcome of this???

would imagin u should get 180rwkw easily. Do not know whether ur engine is healthy or not. Putting a high flow 33 turbo on would see higher results

is this off "IWIN"????? Seems like the description of whats its running? How come sell turbo??

can i get a pic of the high mount manifold please. [email protected]

straight turbo swap, depending on the boost u run, i would recommend a fuel pump anyway, saves hassles. Walboro intank pumps are my choice for mild setups anyway, fitted one to a mates cefiro with rb25det in it. Had to chop the wires and use connectors but that was not big deal

wont be much lag though so dont take the warning the wrong way. Cant judge boost characteristics till its on car as all cars n turbos are different n react different i guess, go with what u think,.

mine says V2 on the from cover i think and its a series 1 r33. V4 is a better one apparently.

phil had his car tuned at hardcore, made something like 674rwhp on an RB25 with c16 and nitrous. On pump fuel alone it made 534rwhp give or take afew hp. It running a turbo equivilant to a T76, goes nicely indeed. Rb25's are capable of very nice power figures, to the average jo blo 400rwhp is more than enough.

most cars these days have the idle up solenoid which tells the computer to raise engine revs to compensate the extra load from the p/s when pressures increase(movement side to side) As for u hicas, get a lock bar. Try going to a mechanic with a scan tool and they might be able to delete the hicas light, or take the fuse out(if it has one) for the light

hi flow it or bolt on 2530 or something similar and have no ceramic issues wories, personally i found the stock turbo to be very reliable, i was running 13psi and sometimes 15psi on stock turbo. The oil seal let go and the rear wheel is still all intact although my engine also decided it could handle it anymore so......rebuilding

date???

very good car to observe. clean tidy and would go nicely.

the idling shouldnt really make the bov go ok!!! it will stall if the bov is leaking. there should be a tension setting for the bov spring somewher eon the bov. Im not familiar with ur type of bov. Try a thicker oil in engine, or just get a mechanic to tell u.

bearings siezed may send metal filings through the oil lines in sump etc. Not good for bearings/cylinder wall lube so definately wouldnt recommend that option

i dont believe there is a quick fix to stop the smoking besides replacing it. So i think ur gonna have to put up with the smoke and take ur chances out on the road without being pulled over for a smokey n defective vehicle. good luck